Tonight a buddy of mine picked me up in my FC and he was waiting on idle for about 10-15 mins, thats when we started too notice that the left passenger seat rail was really hot, so hot that if u touched it for about 5 seconds you would burn yourself...is this normal??

 

it is bolted to the floor, and that bolt is inches away from the exhaust, trans that has been heating the floor for 10-15 min..so id say its normal.

 

Are the heat shields above the exhaust still on the car, or have they been removed?

 

Im pretty sure they aint there AND i have a exhaust leak from the rear end of the downpipe. should i just conclude with normal heat transfer through the metal?

 

Uh if it's hot enough to melt plastic or darken upholstery then you have a problem, if it's not then you don't. As for if it's "normal", rising hot exhaust or hot air will normally heat up metal quickly, and metal plate/sheet bolted to metal plate/sheet will transfer heat pretty much instantly.

Btw I've patched an exhaust leak with (in order of assembly) fiberglass insulation, aluminum flashing and a couple of hose clamps. It held up for the last few months that I had that car.

 

i would say it just below disforming plastic bits or such, and then i mean just RIGHT BELOW, if i should guess the rail was about 60 - 80 Celcius, it was just like touching metal sheets "boiling" in the sun....

 

Find some heatshields and put them on. Someone's bound to have a parts car that can give them up. The heatshields are also there to protect the ECU from excessive heat.

 

There is no heat up by the ECU, i looked under my car and i noticed that the cat was REALLYREALLY hot, , there is a hole there too wich im guessing is too let some of the gasses out there, but its mainly the metal in the handbrake and the passenger seat rail som apparently this heat is coming from the cat. I know exhaust gases are hot but is it supposed too get THAT hot in the cat?

 

Let me tell you this...

The curved part of the exhaust that goes over the axle on my SUV broke right where it curves up...
I thought I'd leave it until I felt like dealing with a rusted out exhaust.

Now I've got a big burned hole in the carpet in the cargo area, right where the exhaust broke.

That was on a piston engine way after the cat at the back end of an SUV...

You're right after the manifold or right near the cat on a ROTARY that's known for melting glass packed mufflers.

DO
NOT
LEAVE
IT...

ACT
NOW!

There's a reason these cars have an "Overheat Exhaust System" indication system.

 

+1. Heat shields are a must have for these cars - even so, I notice my console, shift boot, and the floor radiate heat, especially if the car's been in stop & go or idling. And that's without a cat, and with the heat shielding.

 

What about the shields that go on the lower portion of the exhaust. Like from top to bottom:
-Exhaust
-Shield
-Road

The one that goes over my main cat has a broken hinge and rattles and squeaks when idling. Kinda embarrassing Is there any problem if I take it off?

 

Lower shields are more there to keep dry grass, weeds and other combustibles you may park over away from the exhaust, so you can remove them, just be aware of where you park.

 

Thanks. I would try to repair it, but I would need to weld the piece back on and I dont have the resources to do all of that.

 

I thought the exhaust gas temperature light is supposed to go off if the passenger side floor got too hot or is it only on my s5?

 

S4s have the overheat exhaust warning light too, but I think the switch has a habit of failing.

 

Easy fix... Get a HUGE worm gear type hose clamp. (They sell them at exhaust shops and for hooking dryer hose up to the dryer's exhaust port...)

Wrap around the cat. Tighten.

???

Profit!

 

No hole is suppose to be there to let gases out of the cat. Is the smog air tube hooked up to your cat? If not your cat could be the problem.

 

+1

you got a nice exhaust leak there. engine bay doesn't like that heat either so you could header wrap your downpipe.

 

So that "exit" "port" should have a tube in it? it just flows right out that hole under my car and up into my chassis. i was concidering the Turbo REVII and a some heat shield material, that probably wont be neccessary if i lead those gases elsewhere?

 

This means your cat is getting no air which = clogged cat eventually. I run the REVTII w/ the downpipe wrapped and I have no heat problems.

 

Yeah gotta be clogged cause i can only drive a few km before the seat rail is hot. Where is that tube supposed too go, still im guessing there is no use fixing it now cause ive been running like this for a while and its probably clogged by now?

 

The split air pipe connects to the ACV, so air pump air can be fed into it. And I would assume the cat is dead/dying if it's been run with a giant exhaust leak for awhile. If your airpump and ACV are functioning properly, then the cat would have been getting air from the port air path (exhaust ports). The split air path is actually barely used; it's the port air path that does all the work. Still, I don't think I'd trust the cat.

 

Care too share some pics of your exhaust?

 

Here are some pics of my exhaust. The wrap is kinda cool to the touch after a long drive.

 

Well ive pretty much stated that the heat comes from the cat , im drawing these conclusions cause the cat is right beneath the seat and it is BURNING hot, i mean almost too the glowing point, i Frizzles like hell when i cool it down with some water,l pluss there is as ive said before an porthole, or whatever i should call it wich lets the fumes sthraight out from the cat and up into the chassis