parts needed for 4 to 5 lug convertion?
09-11-10, 01:58 PM
#1
parts needed for 4 to 5 lug convertion?
my buddy is letting my have what i want form his parts car. it is a GTUs and i have a base. my bro and cuz are putting the parts on it next week for me so the car can be ship down here. what should i take form the car?
09-11-10, 02:24 PM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
the front u would just need the hubs rotors and caliper since the gtus should come with the 4 pistons calipers. Hubs for the front are easy to swap out. For the rear id take the whole part that holds the hub. I believe its call the knuckle. With rotors calipers since it should be vented rear brakes.
09-12-10, 02:48 PM
#4
yea, it runs, kinda
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Eudora, Ks
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am doing the same thing.... so instead of starting a new thread.. i'll ask here.. I swapped the front hubs but doe you use the hard line or soft line from the previous brakes. I put the soft/flexible line into the caliper and it doesn't seem to fit, I also didn't want to force it into there and break something.
raksj.. i've heard its best to get at least the master cylinder..since you have bigger breaks and such.
raksj.. i've heard its best to get at least the master cylinder..since you have bigger breaks and such.
09-12-10, 03:30 PM
#5
You don't need it, but it is bigger.
I would suggest swapping the entire rear subframe, unless you want to buy dtss eliminator bushings. If you pull just the rear hub assembly off, you will most likely screw up the dtss bushing in the process. But it will be easier and handle better swapping just the hubs and pressing dtss eliminators in.
09-12-10, 07:36 PM
#6
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,841
Received 510 Likes
on
345 Posts
Not necessary for the lug/brake conversion, but the diff is a 4.3:1 versus your car's stock 4.1:1 rear... It's also got the Viscous limited slip diff, which isn't as great as the S4's clutch pack type, but is better than an open.
Last edited by Pele; 09-12-10 at 07:40 PM.
Trending Topics
09-12-10, 08:47 PM
#9
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,841
Received 510 Likes
on
345 Posts
I thought you said you had a base. You should probably put more into in your threads. It helps people give you proper info back.
If you're swapping in Turbo running gear, why not take it from that donor vehicle?
If you're swapping in Turbo running gear, why not take it from that donor vehicle?
09-14-10, 12:37 AM
#13
I did the swap to my first car. For the front, take the front hubs and calipers. I bought new wheel bearings to go in, cause for the price why not. For the rear it is easyest to take the whole hub assembly. It is attached with 3 bolts that you'll probly have to fight to get off. Also take the calipers and rotors. The stock brake booster/master cylander will work, but if the 5 lug one is in working order why not take it? Switching it would require bleeding the whole brake system and most likely bench bleeding the master cylander. Hope this helps.
PS Also I'm not 100% sure, but I think the suspension is meatier in the 5 lug cars, but I'm not sure, might be worth looking into.
PS Also I'm not 100% sure, but I think the suspension is meatier in the 5 lug cars, but I'm not sure, might be worth looking into.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KAL797
Test Area 51
0
08-11-15 03:47 PM