Is it possible to do just a partial rebuild? I've lost compression in the rear rotor (60-70 psi) and despite trying ATF and a steam clean, I can't get the compression back up over 70.

My thought was to get the motor out of the car, pull the rear iron and rear rotor. Replace side seals and apex seals, rear soft seals, and bolt it all back together.

I've tried searching but was unable to find anything. Tried "rear rotor rebuild" and "partial rebuild rear rotor" but got squat.

Any advice on the best way to go about this?


PS: front rotor is at 110-115 psi and I don't have a ton of $$$ to drop ona full rebuild atm, or I would. She's my DD and need to get it back on the road and running strong.

 

Dude... if you go to the group buy section under Atkins, you will see some killer prices for rebuild kits. Rebuild the motor.

 

If the rear rotor is low on compression, the front rotor probably will be soon too. If you have the engine apart, its really not much more work/cost to replace ALL the seals front and rear. Replacing the rear only would be a waste of time.

 

The motor has approx. 55k on it. It was fresh.

My turbo conversion went wrong and I believe I detonated the rear rotor, that's why I don't have any worries about the front.

gonna check out the GB tho, thanks for the hint.

 

Had about 55k on it... Was it a Jspec engine? Who told you it had about 55k on it?

 

I bought the vehicle with a Mazda reman in it. Receipt came with the car.

A month or two before turbo'n it, I had 130 Front and 120 rear compression..

I trust that the front rotor would hold up fine... I'm just not interested in dropping $900 bucks right now, I'd prefer to be around 300 or less to get her back on the road.

I have another motor waiting for a "REAL" rebuild (has a bad coolant seal and was dumping coolant into the rotor housing), I just want this one to get me back and forth to work.

 

I imagine it can be done if need be. You know the benefits of rebuilding the whole motor so lets not harp on the guy.

My only concern would be that all the seals in the remainder of the engine being un-torqued and re-torqued since you'll be removing the flywheel bolt and tension bolts, but you won't be cracking into the rest of the keg. I would assume they will seat back down just fine but who knows?

Give it a try?

 

Yes, it can be done. If you search for "half stack" or "rebuild rear rotor" you will probably find information.

If the engine is fairly fresh then all the rubber is still supple enough. You'll need to mount the engine on a stand, then use clamps to hold the intermediate iron and keep pressure on the front of the engine. Then disassemble the rear, replace what broke, reassemble and hope the front isn't leaking coolant...

Not the best of ideas, and I've never done it.

 

Neither have I... It seems like too much room for error.

 

I've heard of it being done, but for the cost of additional seals ($80 tops if you buy them separately), I'd tear right through. It would give you a chance to take a peak at the front components as well. I've done many engines that had detonated and if you did in fact detonate, the front springs may have weakened too. You probably flattened the rear springs (at best), but you probably chipped a seal as well. I'm with T-2, I'd say the front may not be too far behind. All you need is a NA gasket set for around $150 and you can find rotors and housings quite cheap. With a little bit of elbow grease, you can have yourself a really inexpensive rebuild that you can claim as your own.

 

I've decided to go ahead and rebuild the motor with the blown coolant seal. I don't want to chance it since no one has personally done it and had good results.

From what I've seen, it looks like I can get away with... Rotary Aviation Rebuild kit for 469 and I'm going to get a set of side seals from Atkins for 95. That's all I should need to do a full rebuild, yes? minus intake/exhaust/etc gaskets of course