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Seems this is the second hurdle I've run into with part numbers. I'm looking for the gasket set for my S4 Turbo II. The part number I have is 8DF4-10-271. This pulls up in my mazdaspeed account as an inactive part number. Does anyone happen to have the current part number for this?
lame, it is NLA. everything is still available, i guess not together though
try the install set plus the O ring set, it brings up most of the part numbers you need 8DF3-13-111 goes to separate parts, so this is just the list
Thank you j9, much appreciated. I already have the coolant seals, but according to the parts list on RB & Atkins, these are the part numbers I need, I just want to make sure I'm not buying anything I don't need, those seem much larger than the list you provided, so I'm just making sure I'm not buying replacements that I don't need to.
so I'm just making sure I'm not buying replacements that I don't need to.
that depends on how far apart you're taking everything.
the O ring set, is exactly what it says it is, its the water seals, dowel o rings, oil base orings, tension bolt seals, metering pump o ring, CAS o ring, front cover o ring, stationary gear o ring
so its most of what you need for the actual engine in one bag.
Seems this is the second hurdle I've run into with part numbers. I'm looking for the gasket set for my S4 Turbo II. The part number I have is 8DF4-10-271. This pulls up in my mazdaspeed account as an inactive part number. Does anyone happen to have the current part number for this?
I doubt mazda motorsports will be going anywhere. In a sense, that article isn't anything that's new. There hasn't been a Speed badged car since the Speed 3 left the assembly line in 2013 (I'm eyeballing my 2013 Speed 3 in the parking lot right now.)
If you think about it, Mazdaspeed branded cars were only from about the protege to the speed 3, so whats that, around a decade? There wasn't a Mazdaspeed RX-8 or RX-7, and we all know how great those cars were. Sounds like they are just dropping the name as a formality.
that depends on how far apart you're taking everything.
the O ring set, is exactly what it says it is, its the water seals, dowel o rings, oil base orings, tension bolt seals, metering pump o ring, CAS o ring, front cover o ring, stationary gear o ring
so its most of what you need for the actual engine in one bag.
Its a rebuild, essentially. New housings, apex seals, etc. If some parts are in spec (bearings, irons, etc) I plan on re using those. However, the rotor housings will definitely be new.
Its a rebuild, essentially. New housings, apex seals, etc. If some parts are in spec (bearings, irons, etc) I plan on re using those. However, the rotor housings will definitely be new.
I figure it wouldn't hurt to replace the EGR gasket, I guess I answered my own question on that one, If I'm doing a full tear down, better safe than sorry I suppose.
I figure it wouldn't hurt to replace the EGR gasket, I guess I answered my own question on that one, If I'm doing a full tear down, better safe than sorry I suppose.
just don't be like me and buy the gasket, but forget to put it in! car intermittently ran weird, and then great....
just don't be like me and buy the gasket, but forget to put it in! car intermittently ran weird, and then great....
You know, that is secretly one of my biggest fears of building an engine, or should I say during the engine build process.
Forgetting a side seal, forgetting to check end play on the eccentric shaft, something simple and easy to remember but stupid and costly to forget. I could see myself making a mistake like that without a constant reminder.
Consider it the equivalent of leaving your phone in another room, but then that mistake costing you thousands of dollars...
You know, that is secretly one of my biggest fears of building an engine, or should I say during the engine build process.
Forgetting a side seal, forgetting to check end play on the eccentric shaft, something simple and easy to remember but stupid and costly to forget. I could see myself making a mistake like that without a constant reminder.
Consider it the equivalent of leaving your phone in another room, but then that mistake costing you thousands of dollars...
well the engine itself is not bad for that, you can spin it over once the tension bolts are tight and make sure it has compression....
but yeah it helps to be organized, and double check* things. i also check all the junk that goes on the engine, and make sure all the valves and stuff work, and that the hoses are routed correctly (i pull the hose off the solenoid, and make sure it gets to the valve in question, diagram not good enough). i've also been torqueing as much as i can to specs. believe it or not the car fired right up on mystery gas that smelled really awful, and even ran ok, until it hit boost, and then the EGR would leak for a while....
Santa Claus is a professional, he checks things twice, i often am checking things 3, 4, 5 times!
well the engine itself is not bad for that, you can spin it over once the tension bolts are tight and make sure it has compression....
but yeah it helps to be organized, and double check* things. i also check all the junk that goes on the engine, and make sure all the valves and stuff work, and that the hoses are routed correctly (i pull the hose off the solenoid, and make sure it gets to the valve in question, diagram not good enough). i've also been torqueing as much as i can to specs. believe it or not the car fired right up on mystery gas that smelled really awful, and even ran ok, until it hit boost, and then the EGR would leak for a while....
Santa Claus is a professional, he checks things twice, i often am checking things 3, 4, 5 times!
Valves...what kinda engine are you building over here???
Kidding, but in all seriousness, yeah, it pays to be thorough and double check. Tbh, I'm mostly worried about clearancing the side seals. I'm worried I will get the angle wrong.
