veedubbed

I ordered these two plates, and want to remove as much as possible that is associated or that can go anyway. My car is only pulling 10 inches of vacuum, but has 110 psi compression on both rotors, so I am going to replace my injectors with ones that like to work all the time/not leak, as well as eliminate/replace whatever I can. I recall a picture somewhere showing vacuum routing before/after removal of a bunch of stuff, anyone have that handy?

The offender -



Oh, and quick question, I have two different side mirrors. One is like you see there, and the driver's side has a different shade of red on it and has no hold in it, just solid. Which is the original and what is the other one?

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

im thinkin pass side is original


FSM's are available online to download and will have all your vacume routing

with 110psi comp you must have a nice steady vac leak somewhere

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

The one on the passenger side is an aero mirror. It came as an option on most cars in 88. I belive it was standard on all models in 89. Your car being an 87 didn't have that option, so the driverside is the original mirror.

You can remove alot of stuff, it really just depends on what you want to keep. You can remove the whole solinoid rack to symplify things. But this will mean that you will have to remove the twin scroll solinoid wich is located in the turbo exhaust manifold, or you can just wire it open. You can remove all the hard lines under the plenum as well. By doing so, there are only a couple of vacuum lines left, i have done this on a couple of my cars with no ill affect, you just have to get a oil catch can and run new fuel lines to the fuel rails. You can then remove alot of the stuff on the throttle body. The throttle body mod consists of removing some throttle plates. This will give you slightly better throttle response. You can also remove the thermowax, whitch is prone to cause problems, but it will cause it to not idle well while the car is cold. Some people remove the BAC valve, it is the thing that has coolant lines running to it. This is what idles up the engine when the A/c and power steering is on. With all that said, if you search, the is a post by NZConvertible that has a diagram that is very helpful.

veedubbed

Thanks, that helps alot. I will do some digging to find that diagram.

psychotic7

WRONG....it depends on the model and year for the mirrors. if your car is a true TurboII, then the passenger side mirror is the original. ALL TII's(87-91), GTUs and S5(89-91) RX-7's have the aero mirrors. All other RX-7s have the ugly plain mirrors.

go here for emissions removal...just pick your year and model from the menu and it has it step by step.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen/techmenu.html

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

My '87 TII has aero mirrors.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, i must have been mistaken then. I just figured that the mirrors wouldn't be on an 87 because they started the aero pacakage in 88, meaning the mirrors, lower piece under bumper and the rear spoiler. Sorry for the mis informatain.

psychotic7

youre right about the other stuff but the TII(87-91) alway had the aero mirrors

NZConvertible

Instead of listening to those who say "just rip everything off", do a little research first so you know what the effects of removal will be, in particular the idle controls which people seem to lump into "emissions" removal.

Leaking injectors have nothing to do with low manifold vacuum. If the o-rings that seal the injectors into the manifold or engine are leaking air then replacing them will fix that problem. If the injectors are leaking fuel then a professional clean will restore them to near-new condition. Either way, replacing the injectors is rarely necessary unless you need greater flow. More likely are leaks from broken or disconnected vac lines, so check them first.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=230775

You mean remove the twin-scroll flap and actuator. The solenoid valve is on the solenoid valve rack with the others. Smarter would be to remove the twin-scroll solenoid valve and check valve from the rack and replumb them with rubber vac line to keep the system operational.

There should be more than just a couple. You should have lines for the FPR, MAP sensor, BOV, injector air bleed and oil nozzle air bleed remaining.

You sound like you’re implying that removing the enuission controls will that allow you to do the TB mod, which is incorrect. Emissions removal and the double-throttle system removal are completely unrelated. You don't need to do one before you can do the other.
The thermowax is not prone to causing problems. Not until you remove it anyway...

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Yes, i ment to say the flapper valve. I knew you wouldn't agree with what i said about removing but there has been several other speciaists who have told me that it never really worked in the first place, plus i have done this for years with no ill affect.

That is a couple compaired to how many there was originally. No?

I wasn't trying to imply that at all. I was just listing all the things that he remove to symplify things. Thats all removing emmisions is, have less things to go wrong. There is no point in pulling the upper plenum and removing the emmissions and not doing the TB mod in my opinion, but thats why i gave him the pros and cons. Unlike you on the other hand who is just giving the cons. As i stated, he will see better throttle response. So why would he not want to do it?

Onece again, i gave him the pros and cons of removing the thermowax. So he can decide to leave it alone or trash it. I had it removed on one of my cars, and had no problems. You just had to give it a little gas when it was cold.

NZConvertible

Those "specialists" are wrong, it worked fine. Anybody who's disabled a functional twin-scroll system will attest to the increased low-rpm lag this causes. I certainly noticed when mine stopped working due to a failed actuator. Those that claim removing it made no difference most probably didn't have a functional system to start with.

A "couple" is two. There are no other meanings for the word... You could run the engine with just two (FPR and MAP sensor), but that doesn't mean you should.

Your wording sort of implied emissions removal meant that the TB mod could be done, but I can see that was unintentional. I just wanted to clarify that point because there's so much misinformation out there about emissions removal and the TB mod.

Actually I never said anything about why he should or shouldn't do it, I simply clarified that the two modifications are unrelated. I've removed the double-throttle system from my TB and generally recommend it for Turbos, and I've posted tons of info about it in the past. It's actually you who's not giving him the full picture, since you didn't mention the negative effects of removing the double-throttle system that I've posted about many times...

To me and others that is a problem, which is why mine stays. There are no real advantages to removing it, and your claim that they're failure-prone is untrue. Most thermowax problems are caused by clogged coolant passages/hoses, which is easily fixed and prevented, or people messing with the adjusting screws

Don't take this as any sort of personal attack; I'm just trying to make sure the OP and others looking for help get the right info.