Opinions on radiator for "V-Mount" install.
#1
Edmond Dantes
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Opinions on radiator for "V-Mount" install.
I am installing a V-mount intercooler setup and wanted some extra room in the engine bay for the setup and started looking at different types of radiators to ease the install.
I came across this:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...567+314139+115
The size is perfect for what I want to do but I don't want to sacrifice cooling.
The radiator is shorter than stock but it's thicker than my Koyo and it's a "double pass" so I'm hoping that would counter any negative effects from the smaller size.
So, with proper ducting and my powerful E-Fan think it's safe or not?
Thanks
I came across this:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...567+314139+115
The size is perfect for what I want to do but I don't want to sacrifice cooling.
The radiator is shorter than stock but it's thicker than my Koyo and it's a "double pass" so I'm hoping that would counter any negative effects from the smaller size.
So, with proper ducting and my powerful E-Fan think it's safe or not?
Thanks
#6
Edmond Dantes
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Sir, I don't mind experimenting just don't wanna risk my engine and I can't really use the stock fan with this setup. thanks
REted, short, sweet, i like it what is the shortest you think I could go as the height is my major concern?
Thanks fellas.
REted, short, sweet, i like it what is the shortest you think I could go as the height is my major concern?
Thanks fellas.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Spraintz
REted, short, sweet, i like it what is the shortest you think I could go as the height is my major concern?
The thickness is secondary when looking at cooling effectiveness next to cross sectional area.
The stock rad is like 24" x 16" x 2"?
The Scirocco rad is smaller than that even though it is thicker.
Remember, the back half of the core (thickness) only does 25% of the cooling versus the front half.
This is why cross sectional area is so important.
We run 26" x 19" x 3" rads, which is just about the biggest you can fit up front in an FC nose as a conventional mount.
Even with big IC cores, we haven't seen that many cooling problems.
In fact, I run this set-up with a cheapie 24" x 12" x 3" eBay IC core, and it doesn't affect cooling at all.
In fact, this set-up is more effective than running the stock rad with no IC in front of it.
I prefer running the conventional set-up where the IC is up front of the rad core.
V-mount require a fancy reverse scoop hood, which can get tricky (and expensive) to set-up correctly.
-Ted
#9
Edmond Dantes
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Thanks a ton for the info man.
My Koyo is something like 23x19x2.5 i like the rad. but the angled filler neck doesn't really work to well when I need to lean the radiator back.
I know it'll be expensive as hell but have you ever dealt with getting a custom Ron Davis radiator built? looks like they can make whatever style ya want.
the other reason i wanted a little shorter rad. is so I can have more room between the IC and the hood for reverse vent ducting.
thanks again.
My Koyo is something like 23x19x2.5 i like the rad. but the angled filler neck doesn't really work to well when I need to lean the radiator back.
I know it'll be expensive as hell but have you ever dealt with getting a custom Ron Davis radiator built? looks like they can make whatever style ya want.
the other reason i wanted a little shorter rad. is so I can have more room between the IC and the hood for reverse vent ducting.
thanks again.
#10
Panda Bear
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one thing as well, you can have a vmount, but without proper well air tight ducting, they vmount will be useless. My front mount sits higher, and my oil cooler is relocated, so my rad is getting a fair amount of air over a stock setup, I also run a AWR radiator. Also since it does see street use, I have a large efan with a shroud that covers the entire surface area
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Edmond Dantes
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cool, thanks for the input. after all of the V-mount threads that have inspired me to do this project I wouldn't even have considered starting it without having seamless unrestricted ducting.
it's funny how people overlook something like ducting for airflow yet it's one of the easier parts of the job, at least to me anyways
thanks guys
it's funny how people overlook something like ducting for airflow yet it's one of the easier parts of the job, at least to me anyways
thanks guys
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Both Blue TII and I used Griffin Radiators for our V-Mounts, I believe I got mine off of Summit Racing (27.5x15x3''). Only downside is that the ones we have are crossflow, so you have to have your upper radiator hose running all the way across your engine.
Cooling is also almost TOO good with this radiator, I see consistent coolant temps around 180°F. I also have the Sexy Style vented hood.
Cooling is also almost TOO good with this radiator, I see consistent coolant temps around 180°F. I also have the Sexy Style vented hood.
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Edmond Dantes
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awesome, thanks for info fellas. I thought about the S4 Koyo for a bit.
it looked like a Griffin on yours and BlueTII's cars, i've started looking at those now as well.
shouldn't be any issues using a "double-pass" radiator so I can keep the inlets and outlets on the same side right?
thanks again
it looked like a Griffin on yours and BlueTII's cars, i've started looking at those now as well.
shouldn't be any issues using a "double-pass" radiator so I can keep the inlets and outlets on the same side right?
thanks again
#16
Rotary Motoring
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Both Blue TII and I used Griffin Radiators for our V-Mounts, I believe I got mine off of Summit Racing (27.5x15x3'').
I went w/ the larger 27x19x3 Griffin from Summit for my H-mount and the thermostat is almost always closed (80 deg C) when vehicle is moving at all, when I Auto-X it gets hot enough for the fan to come on just after a run. True test was the hillclimb in hot mountain summer and it breezed through.
I guess true true test will be hillclimb this year when I actually have some traction to load up the engine!
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S5 TII
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I have two 10'' permacool fans on mine. Unfortunately, they are push so they don't do the job very well. If I get stuck in traffic for long periods of time it will overheat. I need to try and get pulls on my setup to fix that problem...
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You may want to research "multi-pass" or "double-pass" radiators a bit more... from what I have heard, if you aren't pushing some big HP then it could possibly cost you HP.
I skimmed through this link a bit...
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=double+pass
I skimmed through this link a bit...
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=double+pass
#20
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Originally Posted by RyoFC3S
I have two 10'' permacool fans on mine. Unfortunately, they are push so they don't do the job very well. If I get stuck in traffic for long periods of time it will overheat. I need to try and get pulls on my setup to fix that problem...
Didn't you just say...???
Cooling is also almost TOO good with this radiator, I see consistent coolant temps around 180°F. I also have the Sexy Style vented hood.
Street use does not stress the cooling system enough.
Get the car on the track, and you'll be surprised how how it gets...
-Ted
#21
Edmond Dantes
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This car is no longer my daily driver, I'll be driving it on the street every now and then and to do some autcross/track events. I'm not looking for major HP or top speed numbers and I don't drag race. I'm more for safety/reliability over squeezing every possible bit of power out of my engine by pushing to its extreme limits.
Thanks for all the input fellas, this is good stuff.
Thanks for all the input fellas, this is good stuff.
#22
Rotary Motoring
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I run the classic Blackmagic fan. It doesn't cover the whole radiator, but works awsome. I think I have ~10 deg C between fan turn on and off and it runs for just a few seconds idling at a stand still.
I also cut the platic under tray where it meets the front subframe so it gaps open ~1 1/2" there as it sags a bit. The radiator angle is such that it forces air out here as well as around the engine and air traveling under the car will put a slight low pressure area at this improvised vent.
I also cut the platic under tray where it meets the front subframe so it gaps open ~1 1/2" there as it sags a bit. The radiator angle is such that it forces air out here as well as around the engine and air traveling under the car will put a slight low pressure area at this improvised vent.
#23
Edmond Dantes
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cool, thanks for all the info fellas, this has addressed many of my concerns so now I can continue worry free
I'll be sure to get lots of pics when I get it finished.
I'll be sure to get lots of pics when I get it finished.
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