Only idles right with A/C on???
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Location: Birmingham, AL
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Only idles right with A/C on???
Ok, so I thought I'd try and ask for help again. My idle sucks. It'a an 88 vert. It's stock. The needle sits right at the first thick mark on the tach(500rmps?) and bounces, the car shakes, struggles to stay alive, and it lets out a steady stream of thin white smoke that smells like fresh fuel.
Unless I push in the clutch (Not disengaging the clutch just releasing the switch.) or turn on the A/C. With just the clutch in the idle will raise up to about 800rpm and with the A/C on it'll raise up to 750rpm and idle the closest to correctly as I've ever seen. It still moves around a bit. With both the A/C on and clutch in it'll sit at 1000rpms.
I've tried 2 different TPS's both turned out to be good and neither made any difference in the idle. The idle adjustment screw doesn't help. I can lower the idle to kill it and raise it back to where it usually sits, but no higher. I'm also pretty sure it's not a vacuum leak because once in a blue moon I'll start the car in the morning and it'll idle perfectly. The idle doesn't move the tone of the exhaust is smooth, the car doesn't shake and there is no smoke.
I've got new plugs and wires. I haven't checked the timing and I'm pretty sure the fuel filter needs changing.
Also of note I guess it that above 1000 rpms none of these symptoms appear. The car drives fine and actually gets normal gas mileage. 15+ mpg with both highway and city driving.
I've read that if the two wires on the BAC valve ever touch that it could short out the ECU. Well they have touched and when I put any kind of load on the electical system my idle drops and my lights dim. But I can hear it working and when I turn on the car and like I said the A/C actually RAISES the idle.
Dear Sweet Lord, Help me.
Unless I push in the clutch (Not disengaging the clutch just releasing the switch.) or turn on the A/C. With just the clutch in the idle will raise up to about 800rpm and with the A/C on it'll raise up to 750rpm and idle the closest to correctly as I've ever seen. It still moves around a bit. With both the A/C on and clutch in it'll sit at 1000rpms.
I've tried 2 different TPS's both turned out to be good and neither made any difference in the idle. The idle adjustment screw doesn't help. I can lower the idle to kill it and raise it back to where it usually sits, but no higher. I'm also pretty sure it's not a vacuum leak because once in a blue moon I'll start the car in the morning and it'll idle perfectly. The idle doesn't move the tone of the exhaust is smooth, the car doesn't shake and there is no smoke.
I've got new plugs and wires. I haven't checked the timing and I'm pretty sure the fuel filter needs changing.
Also of note I guess it that above 1000 rpms none of these symptoms appear. The car drives fine and actually gets normal gas mileage. 15+ mpg with both highway and city driving.
I've read that if the two wires on the BAC valve ever touch that it could short out the ECU. Well they have touched and when I put any kind of load on the electical system my idle drops and my lights dim. But I can hear it working and when I turn on the car and like I said the A/C actually RAISES the idle.
Dear Sweet Lord, Help me.
Last edited by 1980's 7; 05-20-06 at 10:55 PM.