The perfect pre-mix lube for us???



This is from the early 70's... I have 4 cans of it.

Jason

 

hahahaah

 

I wonder if that stuff is still good after almost 35 years. I'm sure the new stuff is better though. 35 years of technology is going to do a lot of pre-mix oils.

 

Nah, I'm sure its OK. It DOES say "IMPROVED" on it

 

sorry if this seams like a dumb question, but is there a 2cycle oil thats better to use vs. other 2cycle oils?
also do i have to mix the gas and oil before i put it in the gas tank or in a container before then funnel it in?
thanks

 

Any 2 cycle oil will be fine as long as it is TCW-3 certified. What I like to do is put the 2 stroke in the tank before I fill it with gas...it isn't necessary to mix the gas and oil before you put it in the tank.

 

I don't see it...

So what will it take to get this archived?

 

It's already archived. Has been for years.

 

I still don't see it. You have a link?


And gotta love how "ECU test connector added" has been archived twice. Must be some hardcore info in that one.

 

OK, it was there....Moving a copy to the archives again...

 

Maybe because it was so much BS, one of the admins deleted it

 

Could be it. But it's informative BS.

Or was it actually deleted by an admin? And if so, do you know who?

 

Don't know, but then I have not looked for it either.

 

Ok, I'm still confused about putting the 2 dimes in if you don't take out the drive gear for the omp. The entire shaft thing spins and if you put some dimes in there, you got metal on metal right? Wouldn't this eventually leave shavings that might make their way into the engine? Im droppin in this motor next week and this is one of the things I need to figure out. My drive gear was left in, would I be better off just taking the guts out of an omp so it doesn't pump oil and leave the omp in with bolts plugging where the lines usually come from or should I use a block off plate with 2 dimes? Or just a block off plate by itself?

sorry for bringing up old threads but I need this info asap

thanks

 

The poster of this thread said he just bolted the plate on top of the gear. I've read about several other people doing that and not noticing nething.

I'd like to point out the benefit of having a guaranteed oil supply to the apex seals, atleast partial from premixing. Upon engine removal for overhaul I found one broken oil line and all the oil injectors I could pull were bad. I'm premixing until I scrounge up the some 300 bucks to replace all those bad parts, only thing not needing replacing is the MOP itself.

 

well i know that this is an old thread (at least 2 years) but i never fully understood why, when runnig premix the egnine would still be lubracated if it is not getting fuel and still at high rpm. e.x. using the engine as a brake going down a mountain. Why would the premix continue to work in this situation?

Well other than the above stated concern i am probably gunna convert as i got the motor out already.

 

i've heard that there is some information from mazda stating that the coating on mazda's rotor housings is absorbant and retains lubricant.

 

maybe this is irrelevent but your know how there is the fuel cut on the decel...your engine isn't getting any oil when that is happening. especially when going down big hills and you are engine braking. i currently have a redneck mop setup that spits the oil into a coke bottle from another set of lines i found. i'd be interested in someones opinion on the above statement

 

As RETed (or somebody) stated way back when, premix leaves a nice, sticky, lubricating film behind when it is burned. That is what is keeping your engine from becoming a big, fat metal grinder.

 

Yes i understand this, however when the engiene is breaking for lets say, 2 min. at 6k or so rpm. The seals in each rotor pass by a giving spot on the housing 12,000 times, if my math is correct th (the rotors turn 1/3 the speed as the shaft, but there are 3 seals per rotor, correct me if i'm worng). So it seems as though the permix group is not concerned that the housing could be passed by the apex seal tens of thousans of times, relying on the last oil before the throttle is realesed to lubricate it the whole time. Don't get me wrong, i'm not against pre-mixing, i'm thinking of doing it myself, this is why all the questioning.
Thanks for all of your imput on both sides of the argument, i appreceate it.

 

wow I just found this, super useful, I'm doing this tomorow.

 

2 minutes at 6k rpm?? Is the car in this example driving down the face of the Hoover Dam? lol

 

just so everyone knows you can buy a block off plate kit from banzai to make it easier and no need to worry about cutting the bolts

 

So, is the ratio 128:1 or 100:1?

 

I don't bother with ratios. I've been doing 1 ounce to 1 gallon all this time.