OMP Injectors - what size bolt for block-off???
06-30-03, 12:30 AM
#1
Refined Valley Dude
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OMP Injectors - what size bolt for block-off???
Searching in this Forum this past winter found one answer - 1.0 x 10mm. So I went and found that and set it aside. Today I had the manifolds off to replace the secondary injector grommets and I pulled one of the OMP injectors with the intention of pulling and replacing them all.
Well, 1.0 x 10mm is too small! So we took the injector to a Crappy Tire and then Home Depot and nobody had a matching bolt. Either the threads matched and the diameter was too small (3/8) or the diameter matched and the threads did not...
Is there some snippet of info I'm missing about this "1.0 x 10mm" measurement I found? Can someone at least tell me specifically what bolt is needed to block off the holes in the manifold for the OMP injectors? There are a couple of places that carry an extensive selection of fasteners, but none were open today...
Well, 1.0 x 10mm is too small! So we took the injector to a Crappy Tire and then Home Depot and nobody had a matching bolt. Either the threads matched and the diameter was too small (3/8) or the diameter matched and the threads did not...
Is there some snippet of info I'm missing about this "1.0 x 10mm" measurement I found? Can someone at least tell me specifically what bolt is needed to block off the holes in the manifold for the OMP injectors? There are a couple of places that carry an extensive selection of fasteners, but none were open today...
06-30-03, 12:39 AM
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I did mine the other day. I went to hardware stores and had the same problem. I found that if you take off the pulley for the power steering pump, there are 3 bolts behind there going into the pump that fit perfectly into the injector holes on the manifold. I know, you need four bolts. The bolts that hold the flywheel to the rear counterweight on an automatic flywheel (I got an 86 GXL) are also the right size to thread into the holes.
Hopefully that will help. If you can find bolts for those original applications, you will have a perfect fit for blocking off the injector holes. I thought I saw a kit a while back that came with the OMP block off plate and studs to go in the hole but I haven't been able to find it lately.
If you need to drive the car asap, I heard of people using JB Weld to seal a dime over the holes. This works just as well.
Hopefully that will help. If you can find bolts for those original applications, you will have a perfect fit for blocking off the injector holes. I thought I saw a kit a while back that came with the OMP block off plate and studs to go in the hole but I haven't been able to find it lately.
If you need to drive the car asap, I heard of people using JB Weld to seal a dime over the holes. This works just as well.
06-30-03, 01:08 AM
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why are you doing this mod? unless you cracked some omp line I'd leave it stock....BTW for TII's its 10mm by 1.25 pitch for the bolt thread......I did this mod and un didi it in a few weeksfor the reason posted in his thread
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&highlight=OMP
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&highlight=OMP
06-30-03, 07:01 AM
#7
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
Search for my thread foool!! I have the sizes in it. Oh how soon you forget.
Search for my thread foool!! I have the sizes in it. Oh how soon you forget.
I'M THE ONE WHO PUT THE SIZE DOWN IN YOUR THREAD WHEN I DID THE RE-WRITE, YOU DORK!!!
Remember? You didn't even have a size at all in your original version of the write-up.
RETed's site ain't up yet, so I can't check there...
I need 5 bolts, not 4.
I'm not cannibalizing my p/s to get the bolts I need.
Does no one know the damn size???
Trending Topics
you need to calm down!
06-30-03, 09:29 AM
#9
OMP-Pre-mix mod Write-up
Ok well since some of my online buddies want to see a step by step I will write this up for them.
Materials I used:
**Dremmel rotary tool (some fiberglass reinforced cutting wheels will make short work of the steel to be cut in this project)
**Four 10mm x 1.0 bolts (or 10mm x 1.25 for the TII - be sure to double-check this) with thread sealant to plug the stock oil injector holes
**Permatex Black RTV
**Some 1/8" thick steel plate to cut the block off plate from
**A vacuum cap to plug the nipple that feeds the vacuum spider
**A ratchet and wrench set with sizes from 10mm to 13mm I believe, some normal pliers and a screwdriver.
Time to do this: About six hours give or take 30 minutes.
Steps:
1) Before you begin it would be best if you had a full tank of premix. Hold off on your last fill-up (last one before removing the OMP) until the low fuel light comes on. Then go to a gas station, add the premix (pre-mix ratio should be about a 100:1 ratio, meaning 1 oz per gallon) and fill the tank.
2) Remove the UIM
NOTE: clean up the area around the oil injectors before removal and put a rag into the intake ports of the LIM to protect the engine from dirt and dust
3) Remove the oil injectors from the LIM and from the engine block. For the engine block oil injectors you will need a pair of vice grips with a needle nose on them, or a thin wrench.
3-a) You will need to remove/break off the vacuum lines that are connected to the injectors and place a vacuum cap on the intake manifold where they hook up as one large hose.
4) After removing the injectors use thread sealant on the bolts and then place the bolts in the holes and tighten them up nicely, making sure that they do not protrude into the intake manifold (I had to cut them down to size with my dremmel. I just matched the thread count on the injectors to the bolts.) A good idea might also be to put a dab of RTV on the last bit of thread to make sure they are air tight and will not cause a vacuum leak.
5) At this point you can place the UIM back on (a new gasket for this would be a good idea since they break easily and are already about 15 years old)
6) Time to remove the OMP. It is very simple as only two bolts hold it on. I believe they were 10mm.
remember to clean the surrounding area.
7) Take the OMP and trace the back of it to make your block-off plate.
8) With a template ready get your steel plate and cut out the outline of the OMP (you should sand down the edges as they become very rough and sharp.)
9) Now make the holes for the bolts on the block-off plate. I used the dremmel's drill bit to enlarge the holes.
10) After all of this you can put some RTV on the steel plate and bolt it down to where the OMP used to be.
NOTE: since the steel plate is considerably thinner than the OMP itself you will need to add some thick washers for the bolts to tighten up nicely.
11) Allow the RTV to cure for at least an hour.
12) Start the car and check for leaks around the block-off plate and listen for vaccum leaks.
If you all have any questions ask them I am happy to help. I will look for the appropriate sizes of bolts and washers later on and post them on here.
Updated by request,EDITING credit to AMUR_
Last edited by Icemark on 04-19-03 at 08:52 PM
Ok well since some of my online buddies want to see a step by step I will write this up for them.
Materials I used:
**Dremmel rotary tool (some fiberglass reinforced cutting wheels will make short work of the steel to be cut in this project)
**Four 10mm x 1.0 bolts (or 10mm x 1.25 for the TII - be sure to double-check this) with thread sealant to plug the stock oil injector holes
**Permatex Black RTV
**Some 1/8" thick steel plate to cut the block off plate from
**A vacuum cap to plug the nipple that feeds the vacuum spider
**A ratchet and wrench set with sizes from 10mm to 13mm I believe, some normal pliers and a screwdriver.
Time to do this: About six hours give or take 30 minutes.
Steps:
1) Before you begin it would be best if you had a full tank of premix. Hold off on your last fill-up (last one before removing the OMP) until the low fuel light comes on. Then go to a gas station, add the premix (pre-mix ratio should be about a 100:1 ratio, meaning 1 oz per gallon) and fill the tank.
2) Remove the UIM
NOTE: clean up the area around the oil injectors before removal and put a rag into the intake ports of the LIM to protect the engine from dirt and dust
3) Remove the oil injectors from the LIM and from the engine block. For the engine block oil injectors you will need a pair of vice grips with a needle nose on them, or a thin wrench.
3-a) You will need to remove/break off the vacuum lines that are connected to the injectors and place a vacuum cap on the intake manifold where they hook up as one large hose.
4) After removing the injectors use thread sealant on the bolts and then place the bolts in the holes and tighten them up nicely, making sure that they do not protrude into the intake manifold (I had to cut them down to size with my dremmel. I just matched the thread count on the injectors to the bolts.) A good idea might also be to put a dab of RTV on the last bit of thread to make sure they are air tight and will not cause a vacuum leak.
5) At this point you can place the UIM back on (a new gasket for this would be a good idea since they break easily and are already about 15 years old)
6) Time to remove the OMP. It is very simple as only two bolts hold it on. I believe they were 10mm.
remember to clean the surrounding area.
7) Take the OMP and trace the back of it to make your block-off plate.
8) With a template ready get your steel plate and cut out the outline of the OMP (you should sand down the edges as they become very rough and sharp.)
9) Now make the holes for the bolts on the block-off plate. I used the dremmel's drill bit to enlarge the holes.
10) After all of this you can put some RTV on the steel plate and bolt it down to where the OMP used to be.
NOTE: since the steel plate is considerably thinner than the OMP itself you will need to add some thick washers for the bolts to tighten up nicely.
11) Allow the RTV to cure for at least an hour.
12) Start the car and check for leaks around the block-off plate and listen for vaccum leaks.
If you all have any questions ask them I am happy to help. I will look for the appropriate sizes of bolts and washers later on and post them on here.
Updated by request,EDITING credit to AMUR_
Last edited by Icemark on 04-19-03 at 08:52 PM
Read ese!
06-30-03, 10:09 AM
#10
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**Four 10mm x 1.0 bolts (or 10mm x 1.25 for the TII - be sure to double-check this) with thread sealant to plug the stock oil injector holes
Or, more accurately, that I am full of ****. I pulled that size from another post in the 2nd Gen section. As of yesterday, it is WRONG.
Are you saying that you used this specific type of bolt when you did the mod? If so, something's not right here...
06-30-03, 10:27 AM
#12
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
PS just saw that pic of you in the lounge LMAO!!!!
PS just saw that pic of you in the lounge LMAO!!!!
Considering all the crap I put up myself, a little self-mocking is due.
Plus, it's gotta **** off defprun.
07-02-03, 09:59 PM
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I'll see what I can do. It doesn't look like I'll be getting a rain day this week so I don't know when I can next try to chase this down... 
07-02-03, 10:33 PM
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Originally posted by Amur_
I'll see what I can do. It doesn't look like I'll be getting a rain day this week so I don't know when I can next try to chase this down...
I'll see what I can do. It doesn't look like I'll be getting a rain day this week so I don't know when I can next try to chase this down...
good thing i got me these "for-show" rotor housings!!!
ill bring a housing to work, hit up brafasco and buy your damned block off bolts.
didnt you say you needed 4? or 5? whichever?
i can only get the ones that block the holes that are directly into the housing..
im REALLY unfamiliar (as you know) with how the OMP is setup and what bolts go where, but i can get you the main ones no problem..
07-03-03, 12:18 PM
#17
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Originally posted by Project84
I'm doing it so i can run premix. Engine oil wasn't ment to burn and leaves carbon in the engine. Its not my daily driver.
I'm doing it so i can run premix. Engine oil wasn't ment to burn and leaves carbon in the engine. Its not my daily driver.
Repeat after me everyone: carbon deposits are not caused by burning oil, they are caused by bad gas/short starts. This according to Atkins. They'd know, since they've been in the rotary business since before 75% of people on the 2nd gen forum were born...
07-03-03, 05:34 PM
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Originally posted by J-Rat
carbon deposits are not caused by burning oil, they are caused by bad gas/short starts. This according to Atkins. They'd know, since they've been in the rotary business since before 75% of people on the 2nd gen forum were born...
carbon deposits are not caused by burning oil, they are caused by bad gas/short starts. This according to Atkins. They'd know, since they've been in the rotary business since before 75% of people on the 2nd gen forum were born...
regardless, engine oil is NOT intended to be burnt.. BUT on the contrary, Aaron Cake is right when he talks about the deposits.
its kind of intertwined.. burning oil is what they do.. carbon deposits can be prevented by measures that DONT include premix.. but if you decide to run premix, then good for you. you have more ***** than me.
sorry, theres just a big fat lack of evidence that proves to be premix is more efficient and/or a better lubricator of the seals..
wish i had the money to end the premix debate once and for all.. but until i do, or someone else does, im sticking with my tried, tested, and proven OMP.
07-18-03, 04:08 PM
#20
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Okay, after working late every day since before I started this thread, I finally got into Spaenaur TODAY.
THE CORRECT BOLT SIZE TO BLOCK OFF THE OMP INJECTORS IS AS FOLLOWS:
Bolt Size - 10M
Thread Pitch - 1.25mm
Bolt Length - 20-23mm suggested (by me )
10mm x 1.0 and 10mm x 1.25 are, as it turns out, bullshit measurements. Wherever I got them from was incorrect.
I'll PM Icemark and ask him to modify the write-up.
THE CORRECT BOLT SIZE TO BLOCK OFF THE OMP INJECTORS IS AS FOLLOWS:
Bolt Size - 10M
Thread Pitch - 1.25mm
Bolt Length - 20-23mm suggested (by me
)10mm x 1.0 and 10mm x 1.25 are, as it turns out, bullshit measurements. Wherever I got them from was incorrect.
I'll PM Icemark and ask him to modify the write-up.
07-18-03, 09:50 PM
#22
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The thing is, it's not 10 millimeter. It's 10M. 'M' means something specific to the bolt people. The lady behind the counter made a point of showing me the gauge she was using, and how it was labelled.
I bought 1.0 x 10mm bolts from Partsource. They were tiny compared to the injectors.
I bought 1.0 x 10mm bolts from Partsource. They were tiny compared to the injectors.
07-18-03, 10:18 PM
#24
Originally posted by Amur_
The thing is, it's not 10 millimeter. It's 10M. 'M' means something specific to the bolt people. The lady behind the counter made a point of showing me the gauge she was using, and how it was labelled.
I bought 1.0 x 10mm bolts from Partsource. They were tiny compared to the injectors.
The thing is, it's not 10 millimeter. It's 10M. 'M' means something specific to the bolt people. The lady behind the counter made a point of showing me the gauge she was using, and how it was labelled.
I bought 1.0 x 10mm bolts from Partsource. They were tiny compared to the injectors.
10M? She was on crack.
A bolt is specified by the diameter of the threaded portion, then it's pitch followed by the length. 10mm x 1.25mm x 20mm. is a 20 mm long 10 mm (thread) bolt with a 1.25 pitch.
The sizes listed in the write ups are correct they only lack the length. You guys do know a 10mm bolt does not mean a bolt that a 10 mm wrench fits on - right?
-billy
07-18-03, 10:48 PM
#25
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She did not say that 10M doesn't mean 10mm. Not at all. That's what I believed between my visit with her and my incorrect purchase from Partsource.
The labelling on the bolt tray at Partsource must have meant pitch x length. 1.0 x 10mm. I didn't realize at the time (nor since
) that diameter wasn't included in that info. Damn them and damn me for not knowing better.
Next time I'll be ready for this.
The labelling on the bolt tray at Partsource must have meant pitch x length. 1.0 x 10mm. I didn't realize at the time (nor since
) that diameter wasn't included in that info. Damn them and damn me for not knowing better. Next time I'll be ready for this.