2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

ok now im mad

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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 12:54 AM
  #1  
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Damaged Little F*cker
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From: High Point, North Carolina
ok now im mad

aaargh!! my water pump still leaks! im pissed. this is the third time ive had to pull the water pump off my T2 to re-seal it. the damn thing still leaks. its leaking frm behind the pump where it meets the engine block. its the last thing i have to fix before i can get my car to run. and i want my car to run. ive dealt without boost for ten long months. i want my friggin car! im using a water pump sealant from autozone, the kind that comes in a tube and you have to squeeze it out and let it cure for 24 hours. is that my problem? i dunno. any advice would be helpful if you have been through a similar situation. i want my car damnit.
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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 01:01 AM
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From: Cola, SC
Just replace it all together. Cheaper in the long run, I'm sure.
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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 01:10 AM
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Damaged Little F*cker
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From: High Point, North Carolina
the pump itself isnt bad, i just replaced the impeller. its the make-a-gasket crap that seal it to the engine block that is leaking
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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 01:38 AM
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Ever thought of using THE GASKET that goes on that part of the engine? It couldnt be over $5 at mazda, and it sounds like you're in for downtime anyway. I'd be on the horn first thing in the morning. BTW I have plenty here if you cant find one.
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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 08:40 AM
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Originally posted by hypntyz7
Ever thought of using THE GASKET that goes on that part of the engine? It couldnt be over $5 at mazda, and it sounds like you're in for downtime anyway. I'd be on the horn first thing in the morning. BTW I have plenty here if you cant find one.

Hmmm, good idea unless the water pump housing was bent when changing the impeller
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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 09:12 AM
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Of all the mount studs for the water pump housing, there are two "extra" on the passenger side that NEED thin, shim washers.&nbsp A lot of times, if they fall off, people forget to replace them!

If you're using RTV (without the Mazda OEM gaskets), spread a thin layer with your fingers on both contact surfaces if possible.&nbsp REMEMBER:&nbsp the surfaces need to be super clean - any bit of water/coolant/oil will prevent the RTV to stick properly.&nbsp I usually let the RTV cure for at least 10 minutes before reinstalling.

I would highly recommend getting the Mazda OEM gaskets for the back of the water pump housing (the figure "8" gasket) in addition to the gasket for the water pump to water pump housing (the "snail" looking one).&nbsp These gaskets from Mazda are only a few dollars.&nbsp I usually coat the Mazda OEM paper gaskets with some RTV before installing - this aids in sealing, and it helps keep the gasket in place when installing components.

So check the back of the water pump housing for leaks - even better, replace the gasket back there!&nbsp If you can't find any of the shim washers, you can get away with spreading some RTV on the bosses as an emergency.




-Ted
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Old Dec 18, 2001 | 07:30 PM
  #7  
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From: san francisco,Ca
tighting order

i had this problem before and i wasn't using a oem gasket. i was using the rtv make your own crap. i also took off the pump and scraped it clean like 3 times and "TRIED" to seal it up. them i had a come over to help and he tightened them up in a certain order 1/4 turns at a time. also let the silicone cure for about 30-45min before putting it to the block. i think the easiest thing to to is use the oem gasket and tightin in the right order. ask some one on the forum or buy a manual. good luck. hope this helps.
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