Ok, I'm stukin' Fumped
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Ok, I'm stukin' Fumped
Ok, done a rebuild on an 89 FI NA and finally got everything back together. Problem now is that I'm not getting any fuel to the system.
I've tried the yellow jumper a dozen times, but I'm not getting anything out of the fuel pump.
When turning the switch to "on" I'm not getting a "whirr" from the pump, but I do hear the click from the relay. I checked the EGI main relay with a multimeter and it is fine, per Haynes.
Next step was to replace pump.... Did that and still nothing. I'm getting power to the connector at back- with and without the jumper.
I'm stumped. Power to the pump - new pump, but no gas (yes there is gas in the tank) I even took the pump back out and tested it out of the tank and still have power to all the connections.
When I hooked up the meter to the pump and switched to "on", the needle jumped to 12 for about 3 seconds and then went back down for a second then pulsed to 12 after that. Is this normal? (With the jumper off) (With jumper on, the other terminal stayed at 12) Have new batt. so power is not the problem.
Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
ps.. Yes, I searched first.
Oh yeah, could the airflow sensor have anything to do with it? I read in one post that it shuts off the fuel system if the car is flipped. ???
I've tried the yellow jumper a dozen times, but I'm not getting anything out of the fuel pump.
When turning the switch to "on" I'm not getting a "whirr" from the pump, but I do hear the click from the relay. I checked the EGI main relay with a multimeter and it is fine, per Haynes.
Next step was to replace pump.... Did that and still nothing. I'm getting power to the connector at back- with and without the jumper.
I'm stumped. Power to the pump - new pump, but no gas (yes there is gas in the tank) I even took the pump back out and tested it out of the tank and still have power to all the connections.
When I hooked up the meter to the pump and switched to "on", the needle jumped to 12 for about 3 seconds and then went back down for a second then pulsed to 12 after that. Is this normal? (With the jumper off) (With jumper on, the other terminal stayed at 12) Have new batt. so power is not the problem.
Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
ps.. Yes, I searched first.
Oh yeah, could the airflow sensor have anything to do with it? I read in one post that it shuts off the fuel system if the car is flipped. ???
Last edited by fstopped; 10-15-03 at 05:21 PM.
#2
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this sounds really familiar to what happned when i put in my engine... do you have spark?
if not then the signal from your CAS (crank Angle Sensor) is most likely not reaching your ECU, or the CAS itself was bad... mine was simply there was a break in the factory wirring harness and repaird it and it worked just fine there was fuel and spark and she started up right away!
If there is spark then check your AFM make sure it is the rite side up if not it will cause your fuel pump not to pump! and/or check to make sure it is properly plugged in.
Hope this helps!
if not then the signal from your CAS (crank Angle Sensor) is most likely not reaching your ECU, or the CAS itself was bad... mine was simply there was a break in the factory wirring harness and repaird it and it worked just fine there was fuel and spark and she started up right away!
If there is spark then check your AFM make sure it is the rite side up if not it will cause your fuel pump not to pump! and/or check to make sure it is properly plugged in.
Hope this helps!
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If you are not getting a "whirr" from the pump even when the jumper is jumped, then the problem is not the CAS or anything else. Assuming 12V is at the pump, then look at the ground. Make sure the connection is solid. They tend to rust inside the wire.
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Originally posted by jreynish
If there is spark then check your AFM make sure it is the rite side up if not it will cause your fuel pump not to pump!
If there is spark then check your AFM make sure it is the rite side up if not it will cause your fuel pump not to pump!
??
#5
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That's because it's not true. In theory, this could happen, but the engine pulls enough to open the AFM even if it is upside down. The ECU also ignores the AFM reading when cranking the engine...
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Thanks I'll check the grnds.
I am getting fire at plugs.
and yeah, fuel lines are on correctly. They were pretty much dummy proof on this car - one was shorter than the other.
Would it be helpful if I hooked the pump up directly to the battery? At least just to see if it will work? Would that rule out anything? Will try that tomorrow unless someone posts and says it's not a good idea.
Thanks to all!!
I am getting fire at plugs.
and yeah, fuel lines are on correctly. They were pretty much dummy proof on this car - one was shorter than the other.
Would it be helpful if I hooked the pump up directly to the battery? At least just to see if it will work? Would that rule out anything? Will try that tomorrow unless someone posts and says it's not a good idea.
Thanks to all!!
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No, I even left them off at the pump just to see. Of course, I guess it would have been safer to just unhook the line to the fuel filter - at least that is right under the door.
Is it possible that the new fuel pump is bad? How do I make certain before taking it back? I'm gonna go a direct hookup to the batt. when I get up ... 3rd shift is killing me.
Is it possible that the new fuel pump is bad? How do I make certain before taking it back? I'm gonna go a direct hookup to the batt. when I get up ... 3rd shift is killing me.
#10
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What color is the wire you are checking for the 12v at the fuel pump connector, please.
Something does not compute here. If the key is to ON, then there should NOT be 12v at the wire that supplies power to the fuel pump, unless the jumper is in the check connector.
It should be the large blue wire coming from the harness that has the 12v. IF that is there, then make sure the ground wire is getting a good ground. It's only a two wire circuit. Power and a ground....whirr, whirr.
Something does not compute here. If the key is to ON, then there should NOT be 12v at the wire that supplies power to the fuel pump, unless the jumper is in the check connector.
It should be the large blue wire coming from the harness that has the 12v. IF that is there, then make sure the ground wire is getting a good ground. It's only a two wire circuit. Power and a ground....whirr, whirr.
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Do u get fuel if u unhook the fuel lines to the motor and crank the motor?
Sorry for hijacking.
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Yeee ha!
Nice call, Goodbar6... just needed to be cranked. But that brings me to my next question, if the book says it is "supposed to" actuate when switched to "on" then why doesn't it? I also couldn't get it to pressurize the system while using the jumper.
Now just have to figure out if my injectors are bad ... not catching. That will probably be my next post!
Thanks everyone.
Now just have to figure out if my injectors are bad ... not catching. That will probably be my next post!
Thanks everyone.
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