Ok, I'm buying an rx7....
#1
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Ok, I'm buying an rx7....
I am buying an 88 rx7 SE. It's automatic. I know, I know, lame right? Well I don't know how to drive a stick and everyone wants a 5 speed so I got this car for cheaper. It's got 186k miles on it. I am totally new to the whole rotary engine thing and the whole rx7 thing as well. I love how these cars look and I love how they use an innovative engine to power them. Its awsome. Soo I was wondering what I should do when I get it back home. What should I check out and look at more than anything else? I plan to do a THOROUGH inspection of the car before I start driving it everywhere or tweak with it. I have been doing a LOT of research on here about rotary engines and I think I am pretty confident with terminology, but if in doubt, explain.
Any help would be awsome from you guys, you all have a lot to offer me and I will listen to everything (well mostly everything) that you tell me.
-Travis
Any help would be awsome from you guys, you all have a lot to offer me and I will listen to everything (well mostly everything) that you tell me.
-Travis
#2
Nurse I need 1300cc's NOW
I would do a full tune up .
spark plugs
fuel filter and oil filter
spark plug wires
air filter
thermostat
change all the fluids rear end, oil, tranny coolant
thats for starters. but i would do a compression check as well. with 186k the engine might need a rebuild soon. thats a start for now
spark plugs
fuel filter and oil filter
spark plug wires
air filter
thermostat
change all the fluids rear end, oil, tranny coolant
thats for starters. but i would do a compression check as well. with 186k the engine might need a rebuild soon. thats a start for now
#3
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well i'm sure you know common sense things like change/check the oil often. The thing that killed my engine was a broken OMP line. these lines get old and crack and the engine will die an early death. Does your car have a rebuild in it? or is that 186K origanal miles, that's really getting up there if so. Get a compression check before you buy it.
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I'm going to look at the car on Tuesday. I'm not sure if the motor has the 186k miles, I hope not, because that is getting up there. And from what I've read about rotaries, that is REALLY old. For the compression test, would I take it to a mazda dealer and have them do it? could I do it myself? Sorry for the dumb questions.
Thanks for the help, keep it coming
Oh ya I almost forgot. How much would it cost for an engine rebuild? I am new to this and I would definetly do my homework on it. But how much for just replacing everything back to stock? Nothing modified, just repaired, cleaned or replaced (gaskets, bearing housings, bearings, seals, etc...)
Thanks for the help, keep it coming
Oh ya I almost forgot. How much would it cost for an engine rebuild? I am new to this and I would definetly do my homework on it. But how much for just replacing everything back to stock? Nothing modified, just repaired, cleaned or replaced (gaskets, bearing housings, bearings, seals, etc...)
Last edited by Iusedtodriveaford; 12-18-05 at 11:28 PM.
#5
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I think you would REALLY kick yourself if you got an automatic. REALLY, REALLY kick yourself.
Getting an AT Rx7 would almost be an oxy-moron, lol. It takes one day to figure out a manual transmission and about a week to be fully confident. You'll realize the joy and control of a manual after about an hour behind the wheel. Not only that, but the AT tranny is pretty frikkin' bad on the Rx7's, lol. You will miss out on a lot of power potential by choosing the AT. Seriously don't get it.
On a lighter note, you have the right mentality and sound like a true rotor-head in the making.
You can use a piston compression tester ($20) to do the compression test, which is a MUST before buying ANY Rx7. If it doesn't have a 'release' type button to allow the tester to 'bounce' (since you are measuring 3 faces of the rotor from one test) then you will have to remove the 'check-valve' on the tip of the tester to allow the needle to bounce freely.
Expect to pay more than a $1000 on your first rebuild, since it'd be important to replace more than just the basic seals. Every rebuild is different and you wouldn't know the cost until the motor was apart and fully inspected.
If you want new housings, they're like $400 apeice. Definitely worth the money though...
Getting an AT Rx7 would almost be an oxy-moron, lol. It takes one day to figure out a manual transmission and about a week to be fully confident. You'll realize the joy and control of a manual after about an hour behind the wheel. Not only that, but the AT tranny is pretty frikkin' bad on the Rx7's, lol. You will miss out on a lot of power potential by choosing the AT. Seriously don't get it.
On a lighter note, you have the right mentality and sound like a true rotor-head in the making.
You can use a piston compression tester ($20) to do the compression test, which is a MUST before buying ANY Rx7. If it doesn't have a 'release' type button to allow the tester to 'bounce' (since you are measuring 3 faces of the rotor from one test) then you will have to remove the 'check-valve' on the tip of the tester to allow the needle to bounce freely.
Expect to pay more than a $1000 on your first rebuild, since it'd be important to replace more than just the basic seals. Every rebuild is different and you wouldn't know the cost until the motor was apart and fully inspected.
If you want new housings, they're like $400 apeice. Definitely worth the money though...
#6
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I just read about a "poor man's compression test" on a website. It says to remove the lower spark plug on the front rotor, and disconnect (I have to go back and look up the propper term) from the car. This is all to prevent the obvious spark + fuel = fire senario. It says to both listen and put your finger in front of the hole and feel for the pulses of air coming from the chamber. It says to feel for strong equal pulses resembling a steam engine train? Then it says to do the same to the rear rotar and the pulses should be slightly faster in an 86'-88' rx7.
Should I try this method on the day I look at it to see if the compression is in the ballpark range of "good"?
Thanks.
And Eriksseven, I appreciate what you said and I know what you mean, trust me. But this is going to eventually be a daily driver, I'm not going to race it at all..I just can't pass up the price gap between the 5speed and the AT. I am working on limited funds.
Should I try this method on the day I look at it to see if the compression is in the ballpark range of "good"?
Thanks.
And Eriksseven, I appreciate what you said and I know what you mean, trust me. But this is going to eventually be a daily driver, I'm not going to race it at all..I just can't pass up the price gap between the 5speed and the AT. I am working on limited funds.
#7
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Originally Posted by Iusedtodriveaford
I just read about a "poor man's compression test" on a website. It says to remove the lower spark plug on the front rotor, and disconnect (I have to go back and look up the propper term) from the car. This is all to prevent the obvious spark + fuel = fire senario. It says to both listen and put your finger in front of the hole and feel for the pulses of air coming from the chamber. It says to feel for strong equal pulses resembling a steam engine train? Then it says to do the same to the rear rotar and the pulses should be slightly faster in an 86'-88' rx7.
Should I try this method on the day I look at it to see if the compression is in the ballpark range of "good"?
Thanks.
And Eriksseven, I appreciate what you said and I know what you mean, trust me. But this is going to eventually be a daily driver, I'm not going to race it at all..I just can't pass up the price gap between the 5speed and the AT. I am working on limited funds.
Should I try this method on the day I look at it to see if the compression is in the ballpark range of "good"?
Thanks.
And Eriksseven, I appreciate what you said and I know what you mean, trust me. But this is going to eventually be a daily driver, I'm not going to race it at all..I just can't pass up the price gap between the 5speed and the AT. I am working on limited funds.
Yeah, when you check the compression you remove the EGI fuse in the under-hood fuse-box to disable fuel. You can also disconnect the white CAS plug to disable spark, but I've heard people say it's unnecessary.
Just remove the TOP spark-plugs and turn the car over and 'crank'. You should get a really fast, even and loud; psh-psh-psh-psh.... If it's uneven or there's a noticable difference in tone then there's a problem.
One problem with this method of 'compression testing' is that even low compression motor can have powerful pulses. If using the actual compression tester, numbers of around 100psi on the front and rear rotors are good.
Not sure how much you're getting the AT for, but anything more than $1500 is too much. That's if it's in really nice condition. This is mostly because the value is much lower for an AT and because a rebuild is coming pretty soon. A rebuild that will probably cost MORE THAN THE VALUE OF THE CAR, lol.
Think about this: You buy the car for $1000 or whatever and spend $1500 on a rebuild. Well, you've just spent $2500 on an Rx7... $2500 can buy you a nice s4 N/A with much lower mileage and a 5 speed. Just a thought.
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The car I'm interested in is for $1000 bucks, but I'm going to see if I can lower it to around 900 because of the high mileage. Also, this car is in EXCELLENT condition, exterior is perfect, while the interior is good, but has the normal wear and tear, not a big issue for me. I have been looking at 5speed's and they are comparable in $ and mileage. I will definetly keep that in mind though. I will only buy this car if I fall comepletely in love with it.
And as for the rebuild. I did some more research and at Atkinsrotary.com there is a rebuild kit for a 13b motor for less than a grand, comes with all bearings and seals. Now I do realize that there can be other hidden costs, especially if I have to replace any of the housings.
Thank you for all this info, I am taking everything into consideration, and I'm looking at 5speeds right now...haha
And as for the rebuild. I did some more research and at Atkinsrotary.com there is a rebuild kit for a 13b motor for less than a grand, comes with all bearings and seals. Now I do realize that there can be other hidden costs, especially if I have to replace any of the housings.
Thank you for all this info, I am taking everything into consideration, and I'm looking at 5speeds right now...haha
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Ok, I just found an 87 rx7 (5speed) and it looks REALLY nice. I mean wow. He's asking 1200. Heres the trouble, Its an hour and a half away from where I live. And considering I don't know how to drive a stick, and Definetly dont want to learn for my first time on a Califronia Highway, I would have to bring someone who knows how to drive it. That poses a problem. I'm in a pickle.
Theres an 88 AT just 20 minutes away, and an 87 5spd 90+ minutes away...hmmm Would it be worth it to go with the 5spd?
Oh and it has comparable mileage (156k)
Theres an 88 AT just 20 minutes away, and an 87 5spd 90+ minutes away...hmmm Would it be worth it to go with the 5spd?
Oh and it has comparable mileage (156k)
Last edited by Iusedtodriveaford; 12-19-05 at 01:09 AM.
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Originally Posted by Iusedtodriveaford
Theres an 88 AT just 20 minutes away, and an 87 5spd 90+ minutes away...hmmm Would it be worth it to go with the 5spd?
Oh and it has comparable mileage (156k)
Oh and it has comparable mileage (156k)
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OTOH, an AT in a seven means the engine's probably in better shape than if it were a stick. I read somewhere that automatic tranny doesn't allow revving above 5k or so, which may be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on whether you have 5th and 6th ports working or not. Also, you could have a great compression now, but it could suddenly develop a sealant leak next week. You never know what you're getting with these rotaries, especially used ones. In short, I'd probably go with the AT, AND get the tranny swapped (~$400), AND get READY (save $$$) for an engine rebuild. Especially if the car with AT has better interior/exterior.
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Alright, I cancelled my "meeting" with the guy that had the AT. You guys convinced me. I'm looking for a 5speed now.
Heres a pic of the one I found that is kinda close to me:
87 5speed with 156k miles
http://img271.imageshack.us/my.php?i...reamcar2yq.jpg
Heres a pic of the one I found that is kinda close to me:
87 5speed with 156k miles
http://img271.imageshack.us/my.php?i...reamcar2yq.jpg
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Iusedtodriveaford...If the engine is good the rest is repairable in my opinion..the picture was kind of dark but from what I could see it "looks ok",but please if you don't know exactly what you are buying,take along someone who is familiar with the mechanics of this type of car.That way you will not get taken to the cleaners (buy a lemon).That way you, and your wallet, are covered!..Good Luck and (premature) Welcome to the Rotary World!!
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