What, in your own opinon is the best oil to use in our rotaries and why? also if i am running regular oil in my rotary now, should i change completely over to synthetic if i decide to change or is it ok to mix (im pretty sure its not but i dont know)?

 

If you're running organic oil, just about everyone I know in the RRDI uses Castrol GTX 20W50. The last change I made I put in Royal Purple Synthetic 20W50.

No, you shouldn't mix synthetic and organic oil. Wait 'til the next oil change and convert over, Royal Purple says it is completely compatible with organic oils but it just doesn't make sense to mix them. If you change every 3K miles then organic is perfectly fine, it will do what its suppose to do just fine.

There are only a few synoils that you should even consider using, Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple. I chose RP because of its higher thermal properties, better lubrication of the rotors and hopefully less hydrocarbons coming out the exhaust for emissions. I am just on my first change to Royal Puple for the engine oil and am about to replace the differential and tranny fluid with their gear oil.

 

Honestly, if really doesn't matter what oil you use if you do 2,500 mile oil changes. As for what weight of oil to use, follow your operator's manual which states that 10W-40 year round use is acceptable. Don't believe any of the hogwash about 10W-40 being bad for your engine, that argument is based on ignorance that no longer applies ot newer generation of API spec'd oils.

 

I would be careful with using synthetic oils in the rotary engine. It is oil-injected like a 2-stroke engine. Some synthetic oils do not burn and leave a film like organic oils do. Oil that is injected into the engine needs to burn and adhere to the internals.

I ran a semi-synthetic valvoline for the last 10000 miles of my first engine. She blew at 167k miles and I won't run another semi- of full synthetic oil in my RX again. They cost more and won't benefit our engines in any noticable fashion.

I have used Castrol GTX for some time now and my plugs come out looking clean when they are change (no excessive carbon build up) and my oil pressure is up nice and high where I like it, 55+ psi

 

vavoline VR-1 race oil 20w50 at autozone or whatever, works great in my REW !

 

Valvoline VR-1 70w racing oil.


My oil seals are shot..and with this oil seems to have minimal blow by.. used to use castro GTX till it would start to smoke crazy in the uper rpms due to shot oil seals.. Been runing VR-1 for about a year with no ill effect.

 

Hate to tell ya, but the oil had nothing to do with your engine blowing. Why? Easy answer, except for Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil and other "high end" synthetics brands, the oil you used as not a synthetic oil but a Group III basestock oil-highly reformulated oil. Valveline, Castrol, and Quackerstate are guilty of passing off Group III oils as true synthetics-which they are not. There is nothing wrong with using these false "synthetics". Honestly, you can use a true synthetic but the fact of the matter is that they are a waste of money considering the short oil change intervals that are required of the engine. As for high temp protection, hate to say it but your engine will be blown before the cheapeast oil ever breaks down to heat.

 

yeah thats what i was thinking, oil is oil, i was just curious. i think ill stick with reg oils, its just easier for me. my 7 is my daily driver, i dont have any mods other than a K&N panel insert which really isnt a mod. i may go with a dual catback in the future but thats about it. thanks though, ive learned alot.

 

im running castrol GTX 20W50 and it seems to work Great in my fc

 

The reason I don't run 20w-50 is that it decreases my fuel economy by about 2 mpg and makes my engine feel more sluggish. With a slightly thinner viscosity my engine spools up quicker and feels more spirited-as spirited as an NA can be.
I use 0w-40 in cooler weather and either 5W-40 or 10W-40 in the warmer months.


PS I have about 374,000 miles of FC driving under my belt over the years (I'm on my 4th FC since the late 80's) and never had a problem with my oil viscosity preferences. I have never blown an engine and the only common mechanical problems I experienced were not oil related-wore out clutches and leaky injectors.

I have always premix 8 oz of 2 stroke oil before the term premix was coined-actually when I first started I used to add motor oil to the fuel tank then switched to 2 stroke oil when I learned it burned cleaner.