wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Hey I Just told Aaron Cakes about my problem and he says it may be more severe from the way he replied to my message.

The problem is an oil leak around the front left corner of the engine where the omp is located. The leak seems to be on the oilpan from the way it looks, I'll try to get some pictures up of the leaky spot.

I basically drove the car for 800 miles , alot of highway driving on it .. and when I went to check my oil level it was only at 1/2 way on the dipstick , I didnt add any oil at all for this whole period of time because I didnt think it would have needed it.

Right now the oil level is fine and hasnt gone down yet, but this is after doing an oil change and only driving on it for maybe 100 miles or so.

Also, one bolt on the oilpan was broken and is stuck in the block and Im not sure if this one missing bolt could cause all this oil leakage.

I would highly doubt it was the front cover or anything like that, as this engine has just been rebuilt and Ive only put about 2000 miles on it, it was built by kevin landers.

Any input would be much appreciated, I will try to take some pictures to show you more specifically where the leak is coming from.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

uhh, that amount of oil usage is fairly normal. engines eat oil, regularly. the OMP is a fairly common leak point, the o-rings tend to get hard and leak so rebuilding the OMP isn't a half bad idea niether is replacing or rebuilding the OMP lines also.

Bison Asko

I think you r talking about the Low mark on the dip stick, This is not bad for 800miles on a rebuild, its going to burn oil. After you fill it up check it after another 1000miles and it should have used about 1quart or 1.5quarts depending on how you drive. As far as the oil pan bolt is concerned get that fixed ASAP that missing bold on the front cover will cause a oil leak.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Its not a missing bolt on the front cover its a missing bolt on the oilpan.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I did replace the one oring on the omp already, and the leak seems like its mostly coming from a spot on the oilpan through the gasket where maybe its not sealed 100%.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

This was after about 1500 or more miles on the rebuild, and as I just said its missing the bolt on the oilpan not on the front cover. I'd never even drive the car or anything if it was missing a bolt on the front cover.

As far as my driving goes, I actually think I raced a few people in my car and was tacking it up often.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

sorry for all the posts, i know i should of just put it all in one.

At least I'm bringing up my post count though lol.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

well if you're sure it's coming from the oil pan then reseal it and fix the broken bolt while you have it off.

we can only guess as to where the oil leak is coming from. all you can do is clean it off thoroughly to get an idea as to where it is coming from and go from there.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

The oilpan isnt off , everything is still intact but the oil leak doesnt appear to be severe just looking at it in my opinion. I will try and get a picture up of how bad it is, it just appears to be wet oily on the edge of the corner of the oilpan on the outside lip. Some oil also looks to gone up the side of the block in that area maybe from air making it go up ? ( i have no engine undertray on , plan to put one on that i purchased) , i will take pics probably tommorow.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I thought you were premix?

Nevermind about my answer then. That's normal oil useage. About 1 quart per 1000 miles, under varying driving conditions.

Edit...To find an oil leak you need to clean off all oil from the engine, then run the engine and drive around, carefully looking for the leak to reappear. It will always come from ABOVE where the mess forms.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I cleaned it once and it looked at it but I'll do it again so ya'll can look at the pictures and give me your views and opinions.

I'll probably upgrade the oil pan to a deeper one that holds more oil and get an oil baffle plate if it needs a new oil pan, gasket, and that get the bolt removed that is broken inside and replaced(this is prolly the most pain , never did this before).



Thanks for leaving me some advice Aaron, you know my name is Aron too ? lol , i know two Aarons with Rx7s , kind of ironic but all of us Aarons or Aron like myself seem to love the rotary engine

Edit : After reading a post I just saw about a guy with an upgraded FD oilpan that held more oil was damaged pretty bad (huge busted chunk off the bottom of it), i think this will prevent me from wanting to upgrade my pan. It makes the pan sit lower than the subframe (im pretty sure), which would make it easier to hit road debris. Then again, if you had the engine undertray thing wouldnt that prevent things from hitting it ? Or would the pan sit too low to even use the engine undertray ?

Oh well, the pan I saw on mazdatrix for 7 quart capacity is $490 plus shipping, and the stock is around $100 , im all set with paying 490 for an oilpan regardless of how much better it may be than stock.

turboefini88

iTrader: (1)

Please, for the sake of your 7, fix that damn broken bolt. If its not the point of your leak, it soon will be.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Well its only one bolt out of like what, 20 something ? how would i go about taking this out with having a 100% success rate? I dont want to insure it staying stuck in there if i mess up, i'll consider doing this on my next oil change...

what if my oil pan is bent ...i know i had to bend it back to normal because when i took it off i was a dumbass and tryed prying it of and there were still bolts on it (didnt realize till it bent) so it wouldnt come off and it bent so i bent it back to make it flat and its original shape (this could cause my leak too i bet).

I'll probably get the oil baffle plate to prevent oil sloshing and losing oil pressure, along with a new oil pan gasket, and a new oil pan ( to insure oilpan is not at fault).

I have the cold start on my car but its not hooked up, should i still get the oilpan with coldstart tho incase i decide to fix it ?(wires broken). I think ill proabably just get the one with the coldstart on it if i do just to keep it the same as what was on there.

spot_skater

I would call that bingo. If your oil pan is warped, there's really not much you can do to bend it back to its original shape. You can try, but there is really no guarantee it will stop leaking.

If you can confirm that your oil leak is indeed from the oil pan, I would suggest getting a NEW oil pan, a new gasket, and using some RTV with it to ensure it doesn't leak again. Also, you might want to put some washers in between the bolts and the pan, to help even out all tension. And when you put it on, try to go from the middle bolts, to the edges. Like in a cross pattern (+). That's how I do it, anyway.

FWIW when I changed my oil pan gasket, with just the gasket from Mazdatrix, it still leaked. I've read most people were successful using either RTV, or RTV AND the gasket. On the motor I'm currently working with, I just used RTV. I haven't ran it yet, so I don't know if it will leak. Hopefully it doesn't...



Good luck man,
James

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the info, I didnt even realize I would need to take off the motormount to take the pan off and put it back in, how is this done ? Looks like it might be the hardest part of the job.

As far as everything else, the idea of getting some washers sounds like a good idea since i didnt use any. Did you use the locking washers or regular ?

I still dont know how I will remove the broken bolt though. Anyone have a good method to do so ? Someone told me a helicoil, but i dont even know what that is.