Zhul

I have a couple fairly large oil leaks and looking under the car, it appears that one of them is at the engine block for the oil cooling line (driver's side, near rear of engine). Is this a known failure point? Do I need to replace the whole line, or is there an o-ring/gasket/seal of some kind that typically wears out and needs to be replaced?

I'd like to fix it this coming weekend but I don't want to get under there, unhook everything and then find out I can't get the parts I need and/or can't get it to go back together because I'm missing something. I'm okay with replacing the whole line if it's recommended, I just have no idea here.

Worst case scenario, what would I need to fix the whole thing? Are the fittings AN style, or just a regular nut?

Thanks in advance!

Oh, it's an '87 N/A

SpooledupRacing

either the crush washers are bad or the lines are leaking.. gonna have to look and see.

Zhul

If it were the crush washers, is this a replaceable part?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Yes.
Unless you've recently been fiddling with the fittings though, it's unlikely that the crush washers suddenly decided to fail.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

just try tightening the banjo bolt at the engine, it is quite possible it was slightly loose and decided to start leaking at the crush washer over a period of time. just don't go overboard and get a 3 foot extension but it should be fairly tight with a normal sized wrench.

if it's actually the oil cooler line you can either a) buy new parts from the dealer, the lines are about $125+ for that rear one or b) you can just take both lines to a local hose/hydraulic shop and have them rebuilt for probably under $100 for the pair with high quality hosing. just make sure the shop knows the hose carries oil and not ATF or coolant.

Zhul

Thank you so much everyone! I was at a complete loss. And, added bonus, I learned what a Banjo Bolt is!

I'm going to give it a go this weekend and see what I can accomplish.
__________________
'87 RX7 N/A
'71 Datsun 240Z with Rebello Racing 2.8litre L24 block, E31 head, triple Mikuni carbs with straight runners and velocity stacks
'98 Toyota Tacoma 2WD (28MPG!!)

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

You can also get stainless lines from Racing Beat or Mazdatrix. There are other cheaper ones but they've been known to fail some times. OEM is good too of course. But a hydraulic shop will be plenty effective and much cheaper than both OEM and stainless. That's probably the best route if you want to look for the shop; I was lazy and didn't want any down-time on my daily driver so I went with stainless.