Dang... maybe it was from me wiggling the shifter too much in neutral (always gotta check to make sure it's out of gear...), but my shifter return spring has apparently snapped off (although I felt around the shifter housing and couldn't find it)...

Is it possible to fix this without removing the transmission?

It still drives just fine but I don't like the floppy feel when it's in neutral.

 

you dont need it , mines been broken for years you wont even notice its broken. The only way to change it is to tear down the trans,theres a roll pin that holds the assembly together. However the stock shifters are real sloppy. Get a short shifter it will be alot nicer.

 

i got a short shifter and one side doesnt have a spring. it rattles. i dont like it.

 

I might not "need" it but I want it...

I guess I'll just fix it whenever I get around to replacing my clutch.

I don't see how a short shifter would fix the floppiness problem.

 

The one on mine that separates 1-2 from 3-4 broke a long time ago. I pulled the leftover metal bits out when i changed the bushings and it doesn't rattle anymore.

The springs really arent that important.

 

the stock shifter is horrible, the sloppiness is probably caused by worn shifter bushings as well. The short shifter just feels better plus you get new bushings. In some cars ive heard that the mazdatrix one rattles but in my 88 na with the broken spring does not rattle at all has been over two years already

 

even if you want the spring, its going to be a biatch to replace any way you look at it, in any case, replace your shifter bushings, that might give it a "tighter" feel.

 

It's not sloppy, it just flops left and right (except when you push it to the 5th/Reverse gate) when you push on it, since the spring isn't giving it any tension.

 

yep...mine has been like that since I got the car...the 1st-2nd gear side is gone...but the spring still works returning from 5th-Rev. side....It bugged me for about a week...now I don't even notice it anymore.

 

mine is exactly like this. but it rattles.

 

to battle the slopyness i put a VERY thin washer on top of the upper bushing. it may ware out the bushings a little faster but it feels much better. probubly close to the same as new bushings.

 

hes not talking about the shift detent ball springs. there is a big *** spring on the side of the tranny at the bottom of the shifter with a two bolt cover on it. its a bitch to get to in the car, but can be done. and yes it sucks bigtime to have it broke or missing. mine poped apart after i rebuilt my tranny while driving to work and jammed up my shifter in 1-2. had to take apart shifter in a homedepot parking lot and remove the spring and reinstall later at work.

 

o that one on the lower left of the trans. ya that one sucks when it brakes. gets all jamed. its not that hard to get out. just becarfull when removing it that you dont loose the little ball bearing that runs on the tip of the bolt. reasimbly is the hard part. i did it with trans in the car.

 

yes, the transmission needs to be removed to replace the spring.

 

Man, I don't know if that spring is "take out tranny" important! D:

 

There is no return spring to return it to center from 5th and reverse. What returns it is the spring within the lockout mechanism. (which i am batteling now)

For some reason, after i pulled it out the check ball and that lock out mechanism and put them back in after I replaced the return spring. It wont shift into 5th or reverse with the lock out installed but it will when its removed. Did I put it in wrong?

 

This information is wrong. I hate to be rude about it, but unless you've done a shifter spring repair, please stop repeating this incorrect information.

The spring can be replaced without removing the transmission. It takes about 4-5 hours though. Keep in mind though that most of that time is spent removing the exhaust, driveshaft, and interior bits to access the rear of the transmission.

For the repair procedure see: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/shifter-spring-install-833975/

The roll pin is the only tricky part. You have to loosen the transmission mount to get the tail of the transmission low enough to get a beat on the roll pin with a hammer and 1/8" drift.

 

The replacement transmission I just put into my FC is the first one I've ever seen with the spring in tact. Without the spring, the shifter could rattle but only if the bushings are already worn.

I don't doubt that this can be done with the transmission in the car, but my recent disassembly of the rear half of my blown transmission would lead me to believe that it would be a ***** of a job. If it takes 4-5 hours, then it makes sense to spend 2 hours removing the transmission, 20 minutes on the spring repair, then another 1.5 hours to reinstall the transmission. At the same time the fluid can be changed, clutch serviced, bearings checked, front seal replaced, etc.

 

Just to add in my two cents. There are two spings that perform similar, but different functions.

(1) A coil spring that pushes the metal sphere. This has nothing to do with any lockout mechanism from 5th to reverse. The ball pushes against a "wing" on the extrusion attached to the shift rod via a roll pin. This is the force you push against from the 2-N-4 gate to the 5-R gate. This force is more than the force required to go to the 1-2 gate, which is what the (2) spring is for.

(2) This is the famous spring that is more work, IMHO. This spring is coiled around the shift rod that goes along the inside of the extension housing to where the forks are. To replace it, you need to remove the extrusion (I'll call it the shift block) the bottom ball of the shifter moves. The shifter housing has an access cover to the shift block area on the side (4 screws to remove the plate). Then remove the roll pin. I always thought you needed to unbolt the extension housing, so that you get the shift rod out of the way, but a previous poster says no, so that's worth trying next. This spring is the weaker force one keeping you centered and away from the 1-2 gate.

 

Make sure you didn't loose the washer for the bolt, make sure that it isn't overtightened. If nothing works add a washer, it will get it moving again.

 

Thanks for the advice.

I forgot to mention that I was test fitting all the parts before I sealed it all back with rtv.

Actually I have slight ocd tendencies when it comes to cleaning parts and I made that entire shifter assembly (along with the entire tranny) spotless. In doing so I overlooked the fact that I made all those parts bone dry and needless to say, unlubed.

I disassembled everything, put a thin coat of gear lube on all of it, reassembled it and everything works perfect.

Just kind of a duh moment on my part.

Sorry for the ignorance. lol

I did have a question about the washer that goes to the check ball though. My dad said that it looked like a cooper crush washer, is this indeed the case? If so I need to go get a new one because they are only good for one tightening.

thanks

 

*copper*

 

Lol, I completely forgot about this spring when I first got into my RX. I thought it was factory like that and I prefered it that way. People looked at me like I was an idiot for about a week before I remembered it... Lol. I still prefer mine that way.

 

Aaron, I did come very close to unbolting the trans at one point. My problem was that in my location where I did the repair, I didn't have access to my large jackstands. Even if I did drop the trans to the floor, I still would have been working on the transmission under the car due to lack of clearance to slide it out.

That's why this job took me 4-5 hours. I did remove the starter, changed the trans fluid, cleaned the trans tunnel and replaced the o-rings on the speedo gear... In other words, I was taking my time. If I was in a hurry and only going for the springs and bushing replacement, I'm sure the job could have been done start to finish in 2-3 hours.

Was it worth it? I'm a meticulous type...little rattles, cracked trim pieces, and faded carpet all bug me. Being able to take "shifter spring replacement" off my "to-do" list was worth the labor to me. Would I drop the tranny if I had to do it over? Next time I'll do this job on a lift.

 

Sorry to revive and old thread, but how the /heck/ do you get that roll pin out? It seems to me if you tap it through it will hit the wall opposite the access panel and not come out.

Do you have to put the car in 1st gear or something and tap it out from the driver's side after you remove the stuff over there?