theman4444

NEWB HERE...

I'm not getting 12v to the compressor and I just stuck the wire from the battery onto the compressor lead and the clutch kicked in and it started moving! I left it on there a little longer than 30 secs just to see if it would work and I'm pretty sure it was blowing colder air. I didn't want to fry the system so I took it off again, but now I don't know why it isn't getting enough juice to start it. I hooked the voltmeter on the lead going to the compressor and it only had 0.6v going to it when the A/C switch was ON, and like 0.2v when it was OFF. I don't think that a fuse is blown because I'm getting a reading at all. I checked the refrigerant pressure and it seems to be within the proper working range. SO WHAT'S WRONG WITH THE SYSTEM!!! My friend who sold me it says it might be the logitec a/c control but I'm a crappy electrician so I can't trace it very well. Help please.

RotaryBuddha

iTrader: (4)

i know for a fact that the previous owner of my car had the r12 to r134 conversion done in july 02. the compressor kicks on but its not cold. how do i go about recharging my r134 system. the conversion was done by a mazda dealership. i have all the old work reciptes thats why i know when it was done. will this work http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...egoryCode=3571

if so, then where do i hook it up

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

bump

JohnG

I got some Freeze-12 from E-Bay (3 cans + oil + fittings, etc) to hopefully get my 1988 T2 back to making really cold AC (it works now, just doesn't get very cold).

The fittings are, of course, different from good ol' R12, and the instructions want me to remove the Schroeder valve (both low and high side) and replace with the freeze-12 fittings (which include s-valves).

Several people on here have mentioned just adding freeze-12 and not going through the entire recovery / vac pump / refill procedure. How did you accomplish this without changing the schroeder valve? Can the low-side s-valve be removed and the freeze-12 fitting added without losing vac/pressure on the system? (Obviously, I'm not going to screw around with the high side).

At this point, I'm just exploring various options (okay -- I'm low on funds, but my wimpy *** still needs AC).

WildRX

obviously you dont live in texas!

X-JaVeN-X

How about you move somewhere the humidity is near or above 100% all summer long and the heat index is usually well over 100. Then you'll realize why people keep their a/c.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

118 degree days in Sacramento are no picnic either....

JohnG

Hate to bump this, but I'm curious about the best options I have for my weak AC...

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

You will need a can tap, a universal would be best, a 134a can is larger than r12,and blends. It punctures the side of the can, and vents the flow of refrigerant to whatever you have connected to it, a single hose full of air, or a proper gauge set that you can purge of air, and install only refrigerant.
I puchased a gauge set for $40. at a local supplier.
From what i have" researched" on google, Freeze 12 is 80% 134a, and 20% 142b, I think the 142b is to lower the pressure, and carry the r12 mineral oil, also making it a blend and creating a "temperature glide", making it more efficient.
The bad thing about blends is, one part may leak more than the other, and you will have only 134a and nothing to carry the oil, or just less cooling, depending on which part leaks more, btw JohnG,what kind of oil did you get?

Maxtheman, do the fc's have a txv?,I have an 85 and want to build a project car with an s5 engine, thats why I'm here on the 2nd gen forum, besides the fact that it moves a "little" faster

dr.jones63

I got pissed off when I was quoted $200 - $600 to convert my ac to 134 so I took matters into my own hands. (rx7 guys like to fix it themselves anyway) I put the drop in replacement that Canada, europe and Australia use. Of course it's so flamable that it can be ignited at 1600 degrees. And then it takes a whole 8 ounces to fully charge a FC. I broke the mold of the "system" and my 3 fc's are ice cold for cheap.

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

Yes, the enviro-safe propane/isobutane blend works well in WA, but try it in the south, and you will be dissapointed.
High heat and humidity are difficult to overcome, I tried it, it worked good in the fall here,75-85deg., after that, it doesn't cut it. I've read that you can change the exp. valve, and use a pusher fan(makes any sys. better) , and adjust the charge amount according to superheat temps.. still learnig about this, but.. my theory is to stick with r12.
You can get r12,
(e-bay) it is still produced in mass quantity by Dupont in other contries,

Watch out!, EPA will rappel from the sky to bust you.

svs

iTrader: (1)

The correct pressure wasn't in my Haynes manual. My Haynes instructed to "add until the temperature at the vent reach 45 degrees" (or something very similar). I never got to the right temperature at the vent and I blew the whole damn system. Be very careful not to add to much refrigerant. You don’t want shrapnel flying through you engine.

On the good side, I did have A/C for a few beautiful minutes.

JohnG

Stevan,

I believe you are correct about the freeze-12 mixture. It is 134a (80%) and 142b (20%).

In spite of all the ballyhoo about working with different kinds of oils, it seems that it shipped with Ester oil (the 134-friendly stuff) which is rather telling. I'm not sure that simply adding F-12 is such a good idea, even if I can get around the Schroeder valve issue.

Of course, then there is R12a to consider. While I don't like the idea of a flammable coolant, my car is already filled with other flammable stuff (gas!) and the amount I would be using would be very small.... decisions, decisions...

Back to the homework on coolants. Heck, by the time I'm done, I should just take the damn EPA test and buy R12....

NOPR

anyone know why my idle drops until the car nearly stalls everytime i turn on the a/c? is the compressor too hard for the engine to turn because its so old? it blows cold air but i cant drive with it unless my foot is on the gas the whole time. Also, i keep my idle around 1000 as it is so it must be pretty bad. May not be related, but previous owner 'did me a favor' and converted it to 134a. i have no idea if he did a good job of converting it.

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

my AC system has never worked since i have owned the car.
i finally wanted to get it fixed, so i got it leak tested. it appears that the only leak is coming from one of the hard lines going into the compressor. i'm guessing just an o-ring needs to be changed?
i did all other tests in the FSM and the electricals seem to be working fine...

so anyways, i have inquired at some of the local shops up here (i'm in Canada), and a lot of the places will only do the r134 conversion, for about $250.

now i have contacted one place and that has told me they have a drop in replacement, called "414" i think. does anyone know anything about this?
they are still going to charge me about $80 to bring it under vacuum, and then about $3 per ounce for the refrigerant...

- Aaron

derek1987

What should be the pressure be on a freeze 12 system on 1987 rx7. What temp should the vent blow on a fully charged system.

RETed

Why don't you ask the makers of that stuff???


It depends on what your ambient is???


-Ted

derek1987

Right now the pressure is at 20 psi low side. I looked on the freeze 12 website and I could not find anything about fullly charged Psi.


Right now in about 95-85 Humidity air in the car is it 55-60 (not drive) 35-45 (driving)

derek1987

bump

Slo Motorsports

As I read all of this it leaves me confused. Is the conclusion that FC's should stay away from R134? If this is true, what is the alternative?

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

honestly, just make sure the system doesn't have any leaks ($50 at any AC shop), make sure the system is empty (most likely will be if you have a leak), then fill it up with an R12 alternative, like Freeze 12. that's what i did; i replaced an o-ring at the compressor that was damaged, and then spent about $30 for a recharge kit i bought online.

there was questions about what pressure it should be, but really what you should be looking at is the equivalent amount of Freeze 12 needed in comparison to R12 (which should be given), then you just need to calculate the equivalent capacity of the AC system and fill it accordingly.

Slo Motorsports

But if Freeze 12 is mostly R134 (80% or more) then don't you have to worry about it corroding the aluminum pipes?

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

it is mostly R134? i don't know about that, maybe someone else can answer that.

i didn't use Freeze 12, i used something i think is similar, called ES-12.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Don't you hav to be certified to get R12 and its recharge equipment, though?
Also, where did you get it online. I need it for my DD.

Slo Motorsports

I looked at that web site. Did you evacuate your system before adding the ES-12a? Did you buy the "quick charge kit" with the guage and fittings?

Did you see that they sell R-12 too?