erevos

Greetings from Greece.

I am just about to replace my extremely worn clutch disk.
I am thinking about an exedy or act.Any suggestions???

Soon my mods will give me 220whp and i was wondering how much hp can the stock clutch handle???

Also a friend of mine (he drives a honda type-r 02) told me that all the aftermarket clutch disks do not last like the stock one.
Is this true???

Thanx

George

erevos

Anyone???

arghx

iTrader: (3)

220rwhp is gonna overload the stock clutch pretty easily.

As far as the life of an aftermarket clutch, well if you're upgrading your clutch you're probably driving the car pretty hard, or at least harder than how it was driven on the stock clutch. So that's going to reduce the life.

If you get a puck-style clutch, which aren't normally recommended for daily drivers (trust me, I learned the hard way) you won't get that much life out of the thing compared to a full surface disc. You really have to slip them to keep the car from stalling or chattering.

Just go ahead and upgrade the thing. I'd recommend an ACT Street/Strip disc with heavy duty pressure plate.

erevos

I see...
So even the stock disk is not enough,right???
If i install an aftermarket exedy but not the organic stage 1 will i have enough grip???

slpin

iTrader: (9)

220rwhp?

the stock clutch is FINE
it wont overload the stock clutch.

erevos

Really???
How much hp can the stock clutch handle????(lets assume that the clutch is new)

90WhiteVrt

ACT Street/Strip

erevos

Does anyone know How much hp can the stock clutch handle????(lets assume that the clutch is new)

ForsakenRX7

I tore the stock clutch up in my S5 TII quick. Got an ACT 6 puck and learned the hard way that pucks arent for the street. Now heres the beauty of ACT: all I had to do was call them up and buy another disk. Not another whole clutch setup like a lot of the other guys. ACT has hands down been the best clutch company I've found in a while.

Tech_Greek

Yeahhhh more greeek people!

slpin

iTrader: (9)

on my 80k+ disc, it held up around 10 psi
and that is undoubtly more than 220rwhp
dont do high rpm slip, dont drive like a dumbass, it will last a long time


ebay also sells just disc... thats where i got an unsprung 4 puck... and guess what i daily drive?


if you can drive stick well, it is not a problem at all. you need to learn how to get off the line without bringing the rpm up. my advise for you is to drive better

YearsOfDecay

Ummmmmmmmm

1) 10 PSI is probably NOT going to get you 220 RWHP..... 220 Brake HP at the flywheel..... MAYBE......

PSI is just a number.. there are a myriad of other things that can effect the HP output of a motor other than boost. Especially on a 80K engine..

So, unless you have Dyno numbers from your car @ 10 PSI.. STFU.



2) Rotarys SUCK at low end torque N/A or Turbo, don't matter, therefore, to launch the car and not get a 3.0 second 60 ft time, you need to slip the clutch with the motor above 3.5K I launch with the car at 4.5K and slip the clutch to keep the boost up..

Even a BRAND NEW stock clutch will heat up and slip when you slam second when you beat it like that..

Its not necessarily the DISC, however, the PP isn't heavy enough either.... I you put a 6-puck clutch in the STOCK pressure plate... You hit 250HP and that thing is going to SLIP.... the stock pressureplate simply cannot handle the torque.


3) Driving like a Dumbass????????????? The stock clutch was made for the STOCK car, so that housewives could drive the damn thing and not have their left leg fall off. Once you get the car above 250HP.. the stock clutch is going to slip on the highway in forth gear if you boost it. Thats not driving like a dumbass, thats just fact...

YearsOfDecay

George... For your HP numbers an ACT street strip disc with a heavy duty pressure plate will do nicely...

The street strip disc, is a full disc, not a "puck" type, it engages smoothly and doesn't chatter when pulling out in 1st

The Heavy Duty pressure plate has more holding force than the stock, (around 300 ft/lbs i think) but, isn't as hard to push down as the Xtreme Pressure plate, which hold 460 ft lbs (which is WAY above your projected engine output).

And, as for wear.... They willl not last quite as long as a stock clutch.... but you also have to remember, you have modified your motor and will be putting more FORCE on it than a standard clutch. They are aslo made with performance in mind, not longevity, Just like tires, more grip usually means less life.

HOWEVER, you should STILL get 50K KM out of it or more.

PS... Don't waste the money on the Exedy.... ACT and Exedy are shaodows of the same company

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The previous owner had an unsprung 4 puck on my N/A. I got used to it, but I didn't realize how bad it sucked for daily driving until I got rid of it. It would chatter so bad every time I had to back out of a driveway uphill for example. It also broke my differential at the strip, but I do have an N/A drivetrain. I have a lightweight flywheel too and the car bogs if I didn't launch it at least 6000.

I think the key to buying a clutch is to make sure you don't buy "too much" clutch, like a puck clutch for a daily driver, or "too little" like a weak pressure plate.

ForsakenRX7

I daily drove my unspung hub 6 puck for a year, big deal. The point was that the clutch chatters cause its an unsprung hub. I eventually binded mine into the flywheel.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

you are retarded
10 psi with a 57trim t04b with 2.5" straight thru exhaust and fmic wont get me 220 wheel?
i dont need dynoslips to prove it to you... maybe when you get a little bit smarter, then we will talk

6 puck with stock pressure plate? no it wont slip - i ran stock pressure plate on a unsprung 6 with NA tranny and it held up. maybe you need to learn to adjust your clutch properly so it is fully disengaged. did i mention i have ran it on the NA drivetrain?

and yes i have ran a old stock clutch + act flywheel + old stock pressplate and it held up. the clutch has meat, and flywheel and pressplate was smooth. and guess what, that was probably over 250 too!

if it slips on the stock clutch at that powerlevel, guess what? maybe your parts are just PLAIN WORN. simple as that.




it doesnt really chatter. it chatter when i first start driving it, after that, i learn to give the right amount of gas so i fully engage the clutch at or near off idle. and lookie, no chattering bullshit. if you have chatterproblem, maybe some other crap in your car isnt working all too well. or you just slip it for way too long

the fact that it is unsprung will make it chatter LESS... look back at the post made by ACTman about it. he schooled RETED on it.

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

I just upgraded to a SR motorsport ALM FW with an A.C.T. extreme PP and Street strip disk. KICKS ***. But spendy too with the flywheel. AC.T. is #1 from MOST I talk to. BUT.....The peddle will take a day or 2 to get use to the extra effort, also might have to adjust the peddle(I havent yet) because it engauges VERY close to the floor. Not much room for error. But with the comp trans mounts it shifts ROCK SOLID. Get the A.C.T. and stay away from Centerforce!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

erevos

Thanx for your advices.
I would go for the ACT but for a whole disk not 4 or 6-puck because the car is my daily drive.

The mods that i am ready to do are:
-3"+ downpipe and full Motoria exhaust turbo back with race cat or no cat at all....
-Greddy cone air intake+Cold air box(handmade ofcourse )
-Lightened steel flywheel (around 12lbs)
-SAFC2
-FCD by HKS

Also i am thinking of buying an AVCR or some other boost controller.

So i guess i would buy the ACT street/strip clutch and pressure plate.

I have a final question...if i dont install the SAFC2 (just the FCD installed) would i have problem with fuelling or danger to blown my motor???
If i install a walbro 255 would i be safe???

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

why don't you just go for a six puck sprung clutch? it's no harder than a normal clutch to drive with and it has way more bight than the stock clutch.

YearsOfDecay

This from someone with a picture of the runner up in Window Licking at the Special Olympics for his avatar.....

Once again... a friggin RO-TARD who throws HP numbers out there without any proof and then gets pissy when someone calls him on it.

YES... that combo SHOULD get you AT LEAST 250 to the wheels.... BUT, you just said 10 PSI.. and 10 PSI is NOT going to get you 220 at the wheels on an outherwise STOCK car with 80K+ on it....

I GET SO FRIGGIN TIRED OF YOU ASSHATS throwing out numbers with NO REFERENCE TO WHAT THEY GOT UNDER THE HOOD..

If most of the new kids on this forum read your original post, they would think that by just running 10 PSI on their stock motor, they would be pushin 220 at the wheels.... BS like that is what costs some of these dumbass kids thier motors

AND... EVEN WITH that setup, I bet your monkey *** got more rice under the hood than hosspowah.... ...probably got a gdam safc/fcd band aid on it too.....

YearsOfDecay

The walbro is going to help.. and you should be safe till about 10 PSI or so... some people claim higher... BUT.... You really want to get the SAFC on there and have it tuned ASAP.. Without porting the wastegate on the turbo, you will definately boost higher than 10 PSI and thats getting into the danger zone, even with the walbro.

Remember.... a boost controller cannot LIMIT the amount boost, at least, not with the stock sized wastegate, its just too small.

Also , the walbro will tend to make the car run rich when not on boost, and the SAFC can help with that as well.

I'n not a big fan of SAFC's... but they are avery good tool when running a lightly modified car like you have now!!

slpin

iTrader: (9)

You know NOTHING about me, and you have no right to make any assumption.
And you just got bite hard by being very VERY wrong in your assumptions.
I said it will hold up to his 220 wheel, and that was the point, it will hold up to 220 wheel.
I NEVER said i got 220 wheel just by raising the boost.
Do I have to make a list of my combo everytime? If you are all that curious, by ALL means, check my older posts.

Maybe by then, you will sharpen your reading skills too and know i said i have a 80k miles clutch the whole time, NOT a 80k miles engine

Rice? Really, I am not the one with a A-Pillar shift light. Or the one with autovation pedals and a "rfl bov"... seriously, what do you trap with all that crap? or are they just there for looks and sound?

I challenge you to find a part in my car as useless as the junk you have in yours.

YearsOfDecay

I'm sorry, i gave you to much credit... I READ that the clutch had 80k on it.,,,, BUT.... who the hell leaves a clutch with 80k miles on it when they go through all the trouble to change an engine?? Oh.. a cheap assed reatard.....

I guess you have a different definition of rice...... I find the A-pillar shift light functional... IT TELLS ME WHEN TO SHIFT WHITOUT HAVE TO TAKE ME EYES OFF THE TRACK



OH YEAH... thats REALLLY stickin out like a SORE THUMB isn't it.... OOOOHH YEAHHH Thats got RICER written all over it....

I MADE THAT SPECIFICALLY so i diddn't have to have some gaudy friggin shift lite, or worse yet, a friggin dumbassed 8 inch tach/lite combo bolted to the dash...

You're just pissed cause deep inside you would really love to have the ingenuity and fabrication skills to come up with something like that...

and when it DOES come on..... it friggin WORKS...




Autovation pedals.... WTF is rice about THAT... THEY BOLT ON you MORON... They have a better grip than the stock pads.. which were WORN OUT... they keep my feet from SLIDING OFF THE PEDALS.. OH.. I'm sorry that they also happen to look nice........

RFL Blow Off Valve... OK.. I'll admit... i doesn't need to be that friggin loud... BUT, AGAIN... I works FRIGGIN GREAT... I does what its supposed to do and scares little old ladys off the street.... So... You get HALF a point on that one just cause its LOUD...

What do I TRAP?? You're talkin trap speed?? 109 @ 13.4 is my best... The CAR has gone 12.8... (Its a hour ride to the track, I'm a little worried about breakin **** and i get crappy 60ft times.. T-Bone ISN"T... aint his car!!)


NOW then.... I'm done with your sorry ***, I didn't start this.. you were the one who posted some lame assed general HP numbers without giving ANY modifications to back that up and then jumped all over MY **** cause I called BS on you.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

somebody lock this pissing match

YearsOfDecay

Somebody PLEASE close this thread... the guy has lready gotten the info he asked for anyway.............