o2 sensor question
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 37
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From: oklahoma
o2 sensor question
I have an 88 vert, s4 with no emmissions, a RB downpipe and presilencer. this is a reletively new motor with 300 miles on it so its not fully broke in yet. everything is as perfect as i can get it right now like throttle at 1500 and my tps is checked weekly to make sure it is still perfect. sooooo why in the hell does my o2 sensor keep going out. i am running premix so that could be the reason but i dont think so. im thinking about just leaving it unplugged and keep on driving...any suggestions?
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 2
From: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
The O2 sensor harness wire to the ECU has a coaxial grounded shield.
If you have ever had to splice the harness connector, you may have picked up a short.
The only downside to disconnecting it, is poor gas mileage while cruising. (and the annoying CEL)
If you have ever had to splice the harness connector, you may have picked up a short.
The only downside to disconnecting it, is poor gas mileage while cruising. (and the annoying CEL)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: oklahoma
no the first one i used was a bosch and that went out in like one day so i went to the dealer and got the one from them hoping it would be better but no such luck. and i have never had to splice anything just plug and play. its just kind of confusing but what hasnt been on this car since the rebuild...haha
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: oklahoma
well i replaced the sensor one more time and well, everything is perfect now just i had crap from the new motor clogging it or something....thanks...but now on to the next problem the actuators possibly not opening but i will search on that thread.
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 2
From: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
Thread topic digression- Aux Port Test
From my FAQ:
When they stick, it's usually the shaft & not the internal sleeves.
Just work in some penetrating oil where the shaft goes into the LIM.
For those with series 5 N/A's, the port actuators push to open, and only under high load.
To test them, run a tube to the actuator, T in a pressure gauge and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
(A cheap boost gauge will do.)
Then reconnect the pressure tube & T in a long tube to inside the cabin, with the gauge on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
This also works for the VDI.
When they stick, it's usually the shaft & not the internal sleeves.
Just work in some penetrating oil where the shaft goes into the LIM.
For those with series 5 N/A's, the port actuators push to open, and only under high load.
To test them, run a tube to the actuator, T in a pressure gauge and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
(A cheap boost gauge will do.)
Then reconnect the pressure tube & T in a long tube to inside the cabin, with the gauge on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
This also works for the VDI.
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