twistedriver

I was trying to get see the signal out of my o2 but i wasn't getting a signal. So i replace the 02 since is old any ways. But even with the new 02 i am still getting a constant lean signal (around .1v). If i hit snap the throttle the voltage will spike. Which means that the o2 is working. If i hold the throttle the voltage will read around .7 volt. The voltage i got was a steady voltage and i was suppose to have a varing voltage. I was doing this at school and my teacher told me that the car is not going in to close loop. So does any one have any ideals why the car is not going in to close loop?

This is the only thing i have do so far.
- I clamp the air pump inlet hose to make sure the air pump isn't pumping air before the O2. (This made no difference in the reading)

If any one have any ideal please tell me. And i am sorry about bad gramma i just suck at writing. Thank you!

Car info- 86 base model, manual trans, 180000miles, new O2, new coolent temp sensor, cut air box, fuel filter is about a year old, passed smog.

HAILERS

Pull the Relief solenoid plug off (Blue in color) and then take a reading. The 02 reading will usually go to about .7v.

The car/engine only goes into closed loop when driving and the TPS is not full travel. Never at idle UNLESS you pull the TPS plug off, put the gear shifter in any gear to simulate disconnecting the neutral switch and then rev b/t 1500 and 2000 rpm (memory here).

Go to this site and make a code breaker http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORC...KI/zerror.html The cost is under five bucks.

THEN after you have bought the LEDS........Take just one LED. Put the Red lead into the ABR socket. Put the other lead into the GL socket. You'll have to make both wires longer though so they will reach the cockpit.

Now, with the THING made, go for a ride with the THING laying on the dash where you can see it. Once you reach a steady speed, the light WILL flash on and off numerous times at a rate of approx twice a second. IF it does, then you know you are in closed loop. Step on the gas and the flashing will go away until you go back to a steady throttle setting and the TPS is not at full range. Now with it flashing on and off......let off the throttle. It WILL stop flashing, showing you once again that the car/engine is in open loop.

If you decide to build the code breaker.....test it out. Pull the TPS plug off and you will get a code. Or pull the pressure/boost sensor and it will flash a code. And on and on and on and on and on etc.

NEVER ever make this assy using common light bulbs. Use the LED's described in the article. Note that the Red lead has to go into the ABR. The LED has a blocking diode in it that will keep the assy from working if the leads are swapped.