SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Only thing I really ought to do is replace more bushings. I installed KYB AGX adjustable struts with Intrax progressive rate 1.5" lowering springs and set the struts to the max settings and this car just handles like it's on freakin' rails. There's simply no comparison to the old stock suspension. It is indeed a bumpier ride, but from what I could tell on a 10-15 minute drive, town and highway, it's really most notable on pavement that has a pattern of bumps to it and when you hit abrupt altitude changes like inlaid manhole covers. I'll just plain be avoiding potholes as best I can, which would be better for the car regardless. If I ever get tired of it being so stiff or if I plan a road trip I can just ease the settings down and go. I should be able to see the rear adjusting ***** with the car on the ground (I know I can reach them) and the fronts are right under the hood.

I'm just floored, it feels pretty good for about $600 or so to pull it off. I had to replace my rear sway bar end links because I removed one of them to inspect it. It was in such horrible condition and, since I'd removed one chewed up stock bushing from it, I had to repair it one way or another. I took what I believe to be an unconventional approach to repairing them, but if these last under some adverse conditions I will do the same to the front end links.

When I installed the springs I was surprised to find that for both front and rear sets the springs are so short compared to OEM that they sat slightly loose with no load on them. With the car being lower I can also hit high speeds faster than I could before. Yes, I've tested that, no, I'm not telling you how. I'm sure you can guess anyway... But the point is I was surprised there was such a huge difference with just having the car probably an inch lower than it had been (from what I've heard older springs aren't going to ride quite as high as they originally did).

BTW I am interested in selling the old stock TII struts and springs, very very cheaply, like $20 plus shipping. 105,000 miles on them.

PICS! I'll try to get more of the whole car, it was quite dark when I finished anyway (about 1am).

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Congratulations, but I think you're approaching your setup backwards.
In suspension work compliance is the holy grail, i.e., softer=gooder.

I'd recommend you start at full soft, drive a few days, add some more dampening, drive a few more days, repeat.
Take notes (don't trust your memory) and most of all BE HONEST with yourself.
Use the settings where it's most comfortable most of the time.
Depending on your daily routes, I'd guess you'll end up somewhere in the middle of the adjustment range.

On the highway you can crank to full hard if you want...the pavement is generally better, your speeds are higher and you're basically driving in a straight line- the suspension is being asked to do very little.
Right now, by going to full hard setting, your car is set to operate optimally in conditions you see what, maybe 10% of the time?
During the majority of your driving you aren't letting the new shocks do what they were designed to do- absorb bumps.

From the suspension's standpoint a streetcar operates in hellish conditions- speed, road condition and vehicle weight/distribution all vary dramatically.
A simple shock absorber can only hope to be adequate most of the time.
Spend several thousand more dollars , get a computer controlled setup and you can increase the range through which the suspension is compliant, but even then it won't be perfect.

You spent the money and time to install new parts...let 'em do what they're supposed to.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

Yes. If you are at speed and go around a corner that has bumps/waves in it you will notice that the tires will want to "skip" around a bit while going over said bumps. You see this on race cars with super tight suspension. They bounce around alot going around rough corners. On the street, like clokker said there are alot more variances in surface conditions so you will want your setup to be a little more relaxed so the suspension can absorb that stuff instead of bouncing off it.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Yeah I've noticed that. My theory was that I would set it hard and work my way down if I felt it needed it, but I don't have experience with suspension so I appreciate your guys' input. I imagine the biggest trick will be to get the front matched with the rear. I have a little time this afternoon, I might tinker a bit. I also need an alignment. While it doesn't pull at all, the car is skewed slightly front to rear and the camber is and was way off even before the new suspension.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

I dont know that much about suspension either lol. However I have noticed that on my protege when I run the 15s - 195/55/15 (winter tires) the car handles almost as good and the ride is nicer. With the 17s - 205/40/17 (summer tires) the car does handle better, I cant spin the tires near as bad and the car's *** end likes to skip a teeny bit on hard bumps around corners at speed. I have Eibach pros on the protege and I honestly love them. The only negative is this weird skipping thing that happens. Now, when I say "at speed" Im saying 15-20 OVER the suggested speed around the corner.