lnbrown5981

this is on an 87 gxl:
i just finished installing a tII drivetrain into my n/a with act clutch and hd press. plate, rb aluminum flywheel, rb headers, cs cat back, new fuel injectors, removed 5/6 ports, acv blocked off, egr blocked off, and solenoid rack removed. now the car will not idle without my foot on gas. before the flaming begins:

i have tested for vaccum leaks by using starter fluid, and i did find one at the bac due to a bad gasket, removed old gasket and sealed it with rtv and did not fix problem. all the intake manifold gaskets are new. the tps is set. bac is in good working order (not that it matters, i dont have a/c or p/s).

all unused vac lines have been capped up. i used silicon hose were rubber hose once was, even on the vac spider, where i ran the new hose using the existing splitter. ran the single hose on the splitter like stock to the top vac fitting on the front on the dynamic chamber.

also ran fuel pressure regulator hose to nipple right next to primary injectors. ran pcv hoses like stock to the back of dynamic chamber.

ran pressure sensor hose to a nipple on lower intae manifold.
also of note the car occasionally takes a while to start up when cold, almost as if flooded but turning over at the last second.

i also know that the aluminum flywheel can cause idle problems, but is it possible that it will make car not idle at all?

sorry about the long post just wanted to give as much info as possible...

thanks in advance

rx_7_driver

did u try turning the idle screw? located on top of the upper intake manifold.......... just a guess


-Shawn

bighead

Sorry to jack your thread, Inbrown5981... but I was wondering how you used starter fluid to check for vacuum line leaks. Like, what is starter fluid, where can I get it and once I have it, what do I do to test for leaks?

Thanks so much!

lnbrown5981

i tried adjusting the idle screw while someone held the throttle steady open to no avail, and i did jump the initial set plug.

and to bighead:

you should be able to get starter fluid at any automotive partsstore. the way you test for leaks is spray it around the engine and if the engine revs up slightly at that spot then your leak is coming from that area. from there you troubleshoot...

HAILERS

Vacuum lines installed incorrectly per my thread on the other site.

EDIT: And to prove/disprove that.......cap all four small lines on the back of the throttle body and all three on the front of the throttle body and observe the results.