My most recent problem has been the car starting and then immediately dying. I thought this a vac leak and proceeded to tear apart and replace/retighten everything from the TID to the UIM/LIM gasket. I thought this would fix everything but I went to start it, it again caught and immediately died. I check my MAF, and it is in spec, and then went to the fuel pump. I can't get any voltage to it. I jumped the check connector (the two prong yellow one by the passenger strut tower right?) and I still didn't get anything. So this leads me to two questions...

1. Should the check connector leads be continuous? Mine were really oxidized and I couldn't get the multimeter to beep.

2. Is it a fuse or something that controls the fuel pump? I had been having hesitation problems before it decided to just not start, so something must have gone progressively bad, no?

Thanks for any help! Also, its a complete S5 TII conversion.

 

Could be one of the coils in the circuit opening relay is bad (the one fed by the AFM door or jumper). The other coil is energized by the key's start position, so we know it's good...

As a way to troubleshoot this, jumper the middle black/ white to the blue wire right beside it at the base of the relay (under the dash, next to the steering column). Use a piece of solid wire, like a paper clip.

Note that the pump will (should) start to run as soon as the key is turned to on (much like the jumper wire on the connector).

If this fixes your problem, then the relay is bad. If not, get back to us

 

Ok, I jumped the relay under the dash by the steering column (its black and yellow with 5 plugs right?) and got some relays clicking and the pump to turn on. So I should assume that the relay is my problem? What is the best way to fix this? Can I just permanently jump it or should it be replaced? Thanks for the help so far.

 

I had the same exact problem, that damn thing is loud when it clicks. Make sure you have the brown and green wire going to your AFM connected to a ground, that is what triggers the relay, if that sucker isn't getting a ground signal it won't do ****, I went up and down my wires and still couldn't find the problem so I just ran a fused 12v to the fuel pumps blue wire (iirc, ill have to get back to you on that one) with an oil pressure safety cut out switch in line, it all works great now, alot safer too

 

The relay is the problem, IF the pump wasn't running with the connector jumpered, and IF she stays running now once the key is let go from start. There is a slim possibility it could be the wiring, but I'd shoot for the relay first...

Don't jumper it permanently- it's the same scenario as leaving the connector jumpered, if you get into a fender-bender and a fuel line is ruptured, the pump will keep running, instead of shutting off with the AFM closing as it should...

 

Thats Why I installed the oil pressure drop switch, when the oil pressure drops drastically or it cuts power to the pump, got it from summit was like $11 and hooked it up to a t-fitting off of my oil system