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no start when cold starts fine hot and warm

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Old 10-14-07, 07:15 PM
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no start when cold starts fine hot and warm

For the year that I have owned my t2 it's been fun, not many problems and most of the ones that I have had to fix were simple. Now, however, it will start fine warm or even hot, but will be a pain in the *** to start if its cold (about as cold as when frost starts to form on the glass) and I have to crank it about 7 to 8 times at about 40 seconds a shot then let the starter cool back off before it starts. After it starts it runs like a champ no hesitation and it revs up fine, drives fine, but just a pain in the *** to start. After a lot of searching it looks like I am going to change out the coolant temperature probe. Is there any thing else that it might be? I would love the help, as I want to drive it back and forth to work and not need a starter in another 2 weeks, I'm just glad its not my DD. Thanks in advance for the help.
Old 10-14-07, 07:30 PM
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bac working ok?
Old 10-14-07, 07:31 PM
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Typical symptoms of the water thermosensor being unplugged or not sending a signal to the ECU. It's a one way street with the water thermo sensor. Hard to start cold but works fine when the engine is hot. Fix same.
Old 10-14-07, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by arghx
bac working ok?
Yes


Originally Posted by HAILERS
Typical symptoms of the water thermosensor being unplugged or not sending a signal to the ECU. It's a one way street with the water thermo sensor. Hard to start cold but works fine when the engine is hot. Fix same.
That's what I think it is. I have a new one, but I just have to change it. Is there anything else I should look at while I'm under the hood?
Old 10-16-07, 06:39 PM
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I changed the sensor, but it still won't start. During the change out I broke the black valve on top of the bac and the other line coming from the back of the intercooler. Would not having this valve make it not start? It almost seems like I'm not getting fuel, because it doesn't even seem like it wants to start, this car is killing me!! GRRRRRRRR!
Old 10-16-07, 07:30 PM
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I'd never change out a water thermo sensor, myself, unless it was physicaly busted up.

You NEED to put a meter on the green/white wire at the middle ECU plug and see what the voltage is. When the engine is HOT the reading will be a half volt or so. Something like 0.40 to 0.50vdc. When cold it'll be maybe over 2vdc. Depends on how cold the water is in the engine. No firm figure for *cold*. But HOT being approx 180*F, then the voltage should be approx a half volt.

If the Green/White wire reads open.........then fix the wiring. That green/white is on a series four. See the series five wiring for the pin/color on a series five. I think the color is the same.

The AWS solenoid shouldn't effect the starting unless the hose/nipple is broken and open to atmosphere. Put on another line on the back that you broke OR cap off the intercooler nipple.

IF the water thermo sensor is *open* to the ECU, then there most likely is not enough fuel being delivered during START. Try a can of starter fluid. About one to two seconds of spray is all that is needed. More than that can cause *problems*.
Old 10-16-07, 07:32 PM
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This chart explains the relationship of the water thermo sensor vs the amount of time the fuel injector is open during START. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...6&d=1182728184
Old 10-16-07, 11:35 PM
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ok will cheek all this this weekend have to work the next two days
Old 10-17-07, 01:05 AM
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same thing happened to me... The pins had pushed themselves out of the connector that goes to the green sensor on the back of the water pump. I rebuilt the connector and filled it with silicone and electrical tape. I never would have found it if I hadn't tested the wires at the ECU.
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