is htere a way to test my cas to see if its good? i read on another thread something about checking the ecu or something but i dont really know how to use a multimeter.

thanks

 

How do you know you have no leading spark?

 

if you are sure that you dont have spark on the leading plugs, its more than likely the coil. heres a tip from the aircraft maintenance field: change the easy parts first! good luck! let us know what you find

 

Swaptronics owns...

 

i have tried 3 different coils and 1 was pulled from a working car which is still currently in mine. i know it doesnt have spark cause i pulled the plug wires from the engine and put some spark plugs in them and held them on the top of the intake and the trailing both sparked but neither of the leading sparked

 

i just replaced my coils, now they work i think you may have a different problem if 3 coils haven't worked

 

I had to do this. Go to iluvmyrx7.com and download the fuel and emission control system part of the FSM, it'll have a picture and tell you which pins on the connector to ohm out and what the resistance should be. You just set the multimeter on ohms (the little omega) and stick each lead in the appropriate place. It's time to get reeeal friendly with the multimeter.

 

Do me a favor. Check your coil one more time for me with all plugs and wires connected up.. Start the engine and let it idle and if it won't idle then get someone to keep it rev'd up. Now go to your LEAD coil assy. Carefully remove JUST ONE of the plug wires from the coil assy. Just gently lift it out of its hole. Did you see spark?

If you got no spark, get that cheap DIGITAL METER from RadioShack for about twenty bucks. Now pull the two wire, white connector that is located on the LEAD coil assy, apart.

Now put the negative lead on a good ground, and put the positive lead on the BLACK WIRE with a YELLOW STRIPE that small white plug.

Turn the key to ON. You should see approx 12v. Report back what you find.

Mr. J-RAT.....SWAPTRONICS works only if the SCREWS (old prison term your probably familiar with), that run the shop will let you. Screws are dumb. By the way, just a thought....the place where you work has armed guards and a fence around it. Does that remind you of prison?? Or just a safe place to work , keeping all the riff raff out?

 

You been hitting the bottle again? I told you, to lay off the sauce!! Yes, the place I work at has armed guards and a fence around it. No, it doesnt feel like a prison. I can come and go as I please.

86gxlrx7, sorry to midly hijack the thread. HAILERS is the #1 source for electronic knowledge on the board. But he is a bit senile and tends to digress alot.

ALSO, you should REALLY acquaint yourself with a multimeter. ITs an Indispensable tool if your going to be a rotary owner.

Jarrett

 

i cant even get the car to start it seems like it wants to but it wont keep firing and pushing the gas pedal down does nothing. also when i checked the ohms on the coils it went to 1. in the fsm is says its suppose to be below 1.

i'm going to have to get my battey charged cause its dead now from tring to get it to start. and i need to wait for all teh snow to melt

 

ok i have been reading this thread. where is the ecu plug at under the hood? does some one have a picture?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hybridxx+spark

 

this is what my cas looks like on the inside.

 

on that other thread it says its suppose to look like this

 

ok i think i have some real bad news. I was putting oil in the combustion chambers and after i was done when i was rotating the rear rotor i noticed that it wasnt pushing air out of the trailing hole and wasnt sucking air in at the leading hole. the front rotor pushes and sucks real hard. so does that mean a apex seal fell out or something?

 

That's inconclusive. Make sure you leave one plug in each rotor housing. Preferably the trail (top)plug. Then rotate the engine and feel for the pulses on the lower plug.

About the cas pictures......yours looks the same as mine as far as I can tell. In other words if indeed the first mark on your crank pulley is aligned with the pointer when you took that picture.

About ohming out the cas (ringing).......See the green wire and the white wire with a black stripe going to the front coil in the cas??????? What you want to do is unplug the cas. Now notice where those two wires go in the cas plug. Put your meters two leads on those two sockets and see what the meter reads on the Ohms scale. I believe it should read b/t 110-210 ohms. Then do the other two wires in the plug that go to the rear coil in the cas. The results should be the same as the front two.

And remember this, it's most important: Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill any day of the week. You can count on that. JRat needs to learn that FACT OF LIFE.( humor, more of less.)

 

Clarification about the cas pictures: The picture I took was on a scanner. It was to show where the *two tooth* gear on top of the cas was in relation to the front coil assy in the cas. Yours looks exactly like mine so I assume your timing is close enough for the car to start.

Your car sounds more flooded than anything. A fuel cut switch seems in order. Sorry I didn't re-read your whole post.....so if you have one already....disregard.

 

i have unflooded it many times with atf and oil it would almost start but not keep firing a little smoke would come out of the exhaust indicating iwas getting some kind of spark. when i put the traling plugs on top of the engine and crank it i would see spark but when i put the leading plugs on top of of the engine there would be no spark. and i have tried 3 different coils and the one i am using came from a running car.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by HAILERS
[B]That's inconclusive. Make sure you leave one plug in each rotor housing. Preferably the trail (top)plug. Then rotate the engine and feel for the pulses on the lower plug.QUOTE]

ok thats good to know

 

ok i hooked the multimeter to the red and green wire that plug into the cas and hooked the other wire to the black/yellow striped wire that plugs into the coil and it went to about 125. then i hooked the yellow and blue wire that plug into hte cas and hooked up to the black/yellow striped wire that goes to the coil and it went to about 80. the mulimeter never moved when i hooked either of the wires from the cas to the green/yellow wire that goes to the coil

 

Something is wrong here. On my cas I have four wires in the cas. The front coil IN the cas has the white/black and green wires going to it. The rear coil IN the cas has the Red wire and White wire.

You ohm out the wires IN the cas. First the two wires to one coil IN the cas and then the other coil IN the cas.

Don't ohm the wires on the plug that connects to the cas plug. Just the plug on the cas.

I think you ohm'd the harness plug because the wire colors don't match my wire colors IN the cas.

 

oh i ohm the wires on the plug comming out of the cas. i ohmd the wire that connects to the coil pack to the wires that plug into the cas

 

ok i connected the white/black and green wires and it went to 200. then i connected the red and white wire and it went to 200

 

Then the cas is perfect. Your problem starting lies elsewhere. I'd suggest making a fuel cut switch.

Say, did you ever just take one plug out of each rotor housing and crank the engine and put your finger over one open hole at a time and compare the results. Are they both more or less the same? Or one radically different. Remember, only one plug out on each rotor housing at a time.

 

ya the rear rotor is alot weaker than the front rotor i am barley feeling it pulling air in or what ever its doing\

but i am still postive i am not gettign spark on the leading spark plugs.

 

WEll, if the trail is sparking then you know all the fuses are good and the cas is good.

So if you doubt the spark on the lead coils....then buy a used lead coil assy. I think I saw one on EBAY.

Or if you are fairly good at things......pull the cas out but leave the connector connected to the harness. Turn the key to ON. Put the lead plugs near a ground like the studs on the left strut tower. Now twirl the cas. Spark should happen when you do that. If not ....get another coil assy.

I assume the trail coil works????????????

Or say your unsure that you could restab the cas right. So then pull ALL the spark plugs and lay the lead coil plug wires near the left strut tower studs. Now spin the engine. The engine should really turn over fast with no plugs and you should see spark at the lead plug wires. All plugs will help save the starter...no load on it.

 

ok as soon as i get my battery recharged i'll give that a try. the thing is i tried to other coils. and the one i bought was from a running car the guy said.

Shouldn't it still start with only 1 rotor. I thought i have seen guys metion only running on 1 rotor.