no power to injectors
05-27-04, 08:34 PM
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no power to injectors
i had an auto electrician look at the engine cause it wont start up and theres definetly no engine damage and we found that there is no power going to the injectors. Is this this the ECU or faulty air flow meter i have no idea. anyone got an idea?
05-28-04, 11:47 AM
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No power to the injectors. That's just too easy
The power starts at the 40 amp EGI fuse......passes thru the Main Relay........goes to the Solenoid Resistor ....then to each injector.
So...is the 40 amp EGI fuse blown?
If not....is the ENGINE fuse located inside the car blown???? It is the one that gives power to the Main Relay to pull it in so the power to the injectors can get there (to the injectors).
The simplest way to see if the Main Relay is being pulled in and at the same time see if the EGI fuse and ENGINE fuse a worth a flip...is to pull the small, white, two wire plug off the LEAD coil assy and see if there is 12v on the BLACK/YELLOW wire, with the key to ON.
FYI...The Solenoid Resistor is a foot below the AFM. It has a aluminium cover over it. It has one large, rould electrical plug. If pulled apart and the key is to ON, and all else is well, you should have 12v on the BLACK/YELLOW wire there in the large round plug.
FYI...you KNOW that the two injectors just under the inlet duct are the secondary injectors and should have 12v on one socket of their electrical plugs, right? And that they don't *fire* unless your over 3800 rpm.
And you own a simple digital meter and would NEVER use a bug light for testing. Yes. I thought so.
The power starts at the 40 amp EGI fuse......passes thru the Main Relay........goes to the Solenoid Resistor ....then to each injector.
So...is the 40 amp EGI fuse blown?
If not....is the ENGINE fuse located inside the car blown???? It is the one that gives power to the Main Relay to pull it in so the power to the injectors can get there (to the injectors).
The simplest way to see if the Main Relay is being pulled in and at the same time see if the EGI fuse and ENGINE fuse a worth a flip...is to pull the small, white, two wire plug off the LEAD coil assy and see if there is 12v on the BLACK/YELLOW wire, with the key to ON.
FYI...The Solenoid Resistor is a foot below the AFM. It has a aluminium cover over it. It has one large, rould electrical plug. If pulled apart and the key is to ON, and all else is well, you should have 12v on the BLACK/YELLOW wire there in the large round plug.
FYI...you KNOW that the two injectors just under the inlet duct are the secondary injectors and should have 12v on one socket of their electrical plugs, right? And that they don't *fire* unless your over 3800 rpm.
And you own a simple digital meter and would NEVER use a bug light for testing. Yes. I thought so.
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