No power to brake light switch (g/w wire)
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 833
Likes: 53
From: Redmond, WA
No power to brake light switch (g/w wire)
The brake lights and horns stopped working on my car. I rigged power to the brake light switch, but have been without a horn since.
The CPU checks out ok. The horns work when jumped with 12v. The issue is the g/w wire that provides 12v to the switch and to the horn relay is dead. It runs up in the dash and I can't trace it. Does anyone know where it runs to? Since it stopped working out of the blue one day I'm guessing it has broken at one point.
I've looked at the FSM stuff already and haven't found a page that it shows the whole circuit. Any pointers?
Josh
The CPU checks out ok. The horns work when jumped with 12v. The issue is the g/w wire that provides 12v to the switch and to the horn relay is dead. It runs up in the dash and I can't trace it. Does anyone know where it runs to? Since it stopped working out of the blue one day I'm guessing it has broken at one point.
I've looked at the FSM stuff already and haven't found a page that it shows the whole circuit. Any pointers?
Josh
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 833
Likes: 53
From: Redmond, WA
I had a few minutes to look at it with a friend's second pair of hands tonight to push the horn and check the lights. There is power to the STOP fuse. This is the circuit that powers the g/w wire. There is a break in continuity somewhere in that circuit. Everything works great if jumpered from the fuse to their connectors.
Anyone know of common breaking points? Is there anything that I'm missing that may have come disconnected in that circuit?
Josh
Anyone know of common breaking points? Is there anything that I'm missing that may have come disconnected in that circuit?
Josh
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 833
Likes: 53
From: Redmond, WA
I traced the problem down today. As I mentioned before, there was a break in continuity on the g/w wire (STOP) circuit. I traced the break back to the fuse box. Upon inspecting the back of the box, there was no rubbed through or broken wire. However when checking voltage across the connection from the w/r wire to the g/w wire, it was dead. The fuse check out ok with 0 ohms resistance. 
I looked at the connectors themselves where the fuse blades sit. The side from the w/r wire looked great; the side from the g/w wire was spread out so that the blade wouldn't touch when it was inserted. I used a pick to bend the connection back to where it has a snug fit. It is odd that this happened one day just while driving, but if you run into the problem in the future this might be it!
The horn and brake lights work just as they should now.
Josh
I looked at the connectors themselves where the fuse blades sit. The side from the w/r wire looked great; the side from the g/w wire was spread out so that the blade wouldn't touch when it was inserted. I used a pick to bend the connection back to where it has a snug fit. It is odd that this happened one day just while driving, but if you run into the problem in the future this might be it!
The horn and brake lights work just as they should now.
Josh
