Just when the car is approaching the need for Rtek2.0..they close up shop..sadly..

Anyone know of any other reputable options virtually the same as rtek 2.0 out there? (S5 turbo..no standalones.) or is anyone willing to part with one?

 

Used RTEK or old school Japanese "chipped" ECU, which you can't alter the map. It was an old niche product which didn't adapt with the times/technology. Its hay day has long come and gone.

 

Yeah, it's been on my radar for quite awhile. I think I even considered it on my first FC I got ten-eleven years ago. The whole PDA compatibility or emulation for it showed its lack of adaptability of changing with the times. If only it was as simple as VersaTune on my RX8...lol. ECU flash tunes on an FC would be nice. That would probably be ridiculously complicated..Then again, if Rtek utilized a daughterboard for those features, who's to say it couldn't be adaptable to an older ECU. HW and SW limits obviously would be a hurdle.

I was looking into it simply for its ease of use..(used loosely.) just set the injector sizes, and it has the fixed map. I wasn't planning on doing any hardcore tuning on the fly. But...aside from a stand alone, I guess a used RTEK or chipped ECU are the only options like you said?

 

why so against a standalone? there's a few plug and play options(well the power FC is close to plug n play anyways).

 

"standalone" is basically the 21st century term nowadays in the 7 world for, a well running car. Our factory ecu's are like ataris.

 

Mostly due to cost vs. where the car will be at goal wise. I liked the aspect of the Rtek 2.0's "simplicity" (again, used loosely.). Throw in the right injectors, and bam. done. Given where the car will be at the Rtek would just be an easy to install option that would do the car just fine for where it will be at. I don't really need a standalone EMS for my application.

Kinda mad at myself for missing the last opportunity by five days, lol.

I've looked into the Power FC. but the fact you have to obtain a second trailing coil, modify it, buy the harness, etc. It just seems like alot of work for where the car will be at. Granted if I were planning on a more radical build it would make way more sense to go with something other than Rtek.

 

Megasquirt is pretty affordable, and Aaron has a good write up on it.

 

I did have a look at his writeup. A bit more involved than i'd like. I might just have to source a used Rtek 2.0. And eventually if the car does reach a point where its going to be more of a powerful build, a standalone would be a more viable option.

 

that is exactly what the JDM chipped ECU's and the Rtek are, its a stock ECU with an added board so it can run a flashable chip. its the Rtek software that is the hold up.

if you find a Knighsports chipped ECU, you can send it to Knightsports with your mod list and some moneys, and they will flash it for your car.

 

Might have to look into that one. I've read up on their chips a bit here and there, but depending on cost, might be worth a shot. Otherwise its a secondhand rtek or a powerfc with the harness. Biggest hold up that I see with rtek is that it utilizes the stock sensor which doesn't read anything over 1 bar.

 

Wait, so the RTEK 2.0 I have and do not want could be worth more than I thought it was? I even have the palm pilot all set up.

 

I'll probably have my 2.1 till the day I die lol even after I upgrade to a Haltech elite 1500... someday...

 

with shipping charges and trade rates still high, i doubt sending an ECU to be reflashed is cheaper than buying a used Rtek or even a big chunk toward a standalone.

doubtful, this isn't the first computer ever built that will wind up in a museum, it's an archaic mod for an archaic ECU.

appreciation is in the eye of the beholder, and i haven't ever really appreciated the Rtek 2.x much because it was always a cheap and poor mod for people who couldn't spend a little more for a much better upgrade. i installed one into a customer's car and i kind of felt guilty for getting him to spend the money on it... even though it got some results, it was a slow and laborious process with mediocre returns.

it has its place for those who wanted a plug and play ECU, but there is now the megasquirt, adaptronic and there has almost always been the powerFC(S5 only).

 

Probably going to end up with the power FC. Got some time to decide. The car probably wont be finished until the end of next week anyways.

 

FYI - DIYautotune sells premade Megasquirts.
They also make the DIYBOB. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...ndenso-52-pin/ It allows you do make a direct adapter for the standalone to fit the oem plugs. Never done one myself, but it doesn't look too involved if you know how to solder and you don't even have to open the hood.

*Full disclosure* I have a degree in soldering and built the ECU harness from a raw long harness, plus rebuilt my OEM body harness, so my idea of "not too difficult" may be off.

 

Bought a power fc for $300 with commander, used datalogit for $100 shipped. And patch harness new for $190 and banzai provided their modified base map. Just look for deals.

 

Haltech with a premade harness for your vehicle (from a reputable shop) and a base map. Once you with such setup, you will never look back!

 

You’re welcome.

 

I've actually got a 2.1 for an S4 in my garage. PM me if you still want one.

 

Various motor sports rules allow ECU chipping/flashing, but not standalones - eg., SCCA Street Touring Sport, where the FB and FC RX-7s are classed. Just as an example relevant to me

 

To Greg's point, there is a niche application for RTek 1.x and 2.x in NASA time trials and road racing: "ECU reprogramming via reflashing or replacement/aftermarket ROM chips or simple ROM boards (OEM ECU housing and hardware must be used)" is a no-points modification. For SCCA road racing, although I used the RTek in the Improved Touring class (ITS), a stock ECU enclosure is not required: "The engine management computer may be altered or replaced," however "All air must also pass through the stock air metering device," which is ultimately a restriction to airflow and limits gains from a "higher-end" ECU such as a Haltech, as I've witnessed at the dyno.

 

 

Just gut that **** :P Also most of the restriction from I've experienced is actually terrible factory ribbed TID. Years ago I went from OEM to a smooth radiused aluminum tube and it was worlds apart.