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No Idle after swap the motor over.

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Old 05-27-17, 05:22 PM
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CA No Idle after swap the motor over.

Hi rx7 club, I just finish swap the motor over. and plug everything in. But the car just wont idle.
Here is the video of it. Some stuff were delete . The engine was running good on the other car that i swap over. BTW there is smoke coming from the exhaust header.

RX7 1989 S5 N/A MILD STREET PORT,6 PORT.
Racing Beat Header.

I lived in California( Near Long Beach), and looking for someone to help me . Willing to pay.
Thanks guy

Attached Thumbnails No Idle after swap the motor over.-18765160_1493123377428992_998361060_o.jpg   No Idle after swap the motor over.-18765366_1493123384095658_1419625696_o.jpg   No Idle after swap the motor over.-18766917_1493123394095657_1192053277_o.jpg   No Idle after swap the motor over.-18767218_1493123414095655_320135461_o.jpg   No Idle after swap the motor over.-18788056_1493123427428987_1848252790_n.jpg  


Last edited by burn1496; 05-27-17 at 05:25 PM.
Old 05-27-17, 08:50 PM
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Pic #3..is your Throttle position sensor plugged in?
Old 05-27-17, 09:35 PM
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I think so , it's the black one
Old 05-28-17, 08:58 AM
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^ this is not related to your idle issue, but I belive those two white connectors lead back down to the OMP, if they are not pluged in the car will be stuck in limp mode( wont let u go past like 1/8th throttle) if your using the stock ecu.
Old 05-28-17, 02:09 PM
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May I know what should I do? Because I think the car have delete OMP. I was planing buy POWER FC is that would solve the problem? Thank You
Old 05-30-17, 10:08 AM
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if you are premixing and have access to the old OMP or a working one , u could simply plug it in and zip tie it out of the way somewhere by the shock tower to fool the ecu.


you said it ran fine before, did u do emissions delete inbetween the swap? id go over all your vacuum lines again and gaskets, it looks like u used some kind of gasket maker instead of oem gaskets, perhaps the upper to lower intake manifold has a leak.
Old 05-30-17, 02:45 PM
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Before the swap, the engine have mid intake manifold crack near the bolt because the owner over torque. I take off the mid and uper intake manifold out and replace the mid one with extra one. I also go to mazdatrix ( i live near by the place) to buy the oem gasket for mid intake and upper intake manifold and replace it.
As the block plate you see above, I do the same thing with the crack manifold( silicon to cover the hole and bolt the block plate in, that what it look like on the crack one so i just want to do the same.) I plan to go get the ECU from the car I that was running this engine before. I think it may have Rtek . If not then I guess I will try to do RTEK for N/A Stage 1. I have couple question, do I have to tune if I install RTEK?
And do you know where I can find instruction to plug vacuum lines ? Thank You. I appreciate your help.


Update: I just got the ECU that the engine use to run on. It's a n353 ecu. The one I have on the car right now is a n351. I also get extra ignition coil, planing to put the ecu and the ignition coil on tomorrow. Do I need to setup the setting for ECU? or I just need to plug it in. Thanks

Last edited by burn1496; 05-31-17 at 03:36 AM.
Old 06-02-17, 02:15 AM
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Bump, I install new ecu and plug the OMP just to trick the ecu. Now I can rev the engine like normal, but the car won't just stay idle if I let my foot of the gas pedal.I also try to plug some vacuum hoses with caps. I can't figure out the solution, I need help. Thank You
Old 06-02-17, 02:03 PM
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have someone hold it so it idles while you spray around the engine to test for vacuum leaks. most idle issues are caused by vacuum leaks, the engine will not run right unless the intake is sealed 100%, most emissions deletes cause more issues in this sense than they cure.
Old 06-02-17, 03:53 PM
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Do you still have the BACV installed? Should be on the drivers side of the engine bolted to the intake manifold near those multi colored emissions related plugs you show in one of the pictures. This valve is controlled by the ECU to let more air in the intake to keep idle in check. Have you checked whether the TPS is correctly adjusted?

I would suggest not just changing out a bunch of parts like installing a completely new ECU without first finding out what your problem is. If you introduce too many new variables it will be exponentially more difficult to troubleshoot. It should idle fine the way you have it now assuming there are no vacuum/air leaks, the TPS is set correctly, and the BACV is functioning.
Old 06-02-17, 05:07 PM
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I think the BACV is remove.








Old 06-02-17, 07:32 PM
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you'd think after years of hearing that emissions deletes cause more problems than benefits that people might actually listen. least in your case it was an engine swap so i can see at least a small reason why it was done. but still, id check for leaks.

Last edited by insightful; 06-02-17 at 07:35 PM.
Old 06-04-17, 06:15 PM
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After I use smoke ball to try to find the vacuum leak. I dont see any smoke coming out or leak anywhere. About the TPS, I can;t adjust it if it's not at engine operate temp.

This is the video after I plug in the OMP to trick the ECU as KompressorLOgic mention.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inmV...ature=youtu.be
Old 06-05-17, 10:01 AM
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Forgot this was s5. Not sure exactly where the BACV mounts on the intake for s5 but I would suggest getting one and plugging it in. It has to be somewhere post throttle body. Had idle issues on my 10th anniversary car when I bought it, hooked up the BACV and now the ECU can get it to idle when cold.




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