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No fuel into cumbustion chamber

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Old 11-06-11, 04:28 PM
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No fuel into cumbustion chamber

Hi everyone so anyway I have a 86 non turbo fc I believe there called. Put a 87 motor in as coolant seals where gone. Anyways got new motor in but getting no fuel will fire if you squirt gas in but will not run after. Do I have to bleed the fuel lines or is there something else it could be any help would be great
Old 11-06-11, 05:03 PM
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Have you tried jumpering the fuel check connector to verify that the fuel pump is working? Is the new engine from a JDM or UDSM vehicle? Have you verified that fuel is coming out of the engine from the return line?
Old 11-06-11, 05:32 PM
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How do I jump the pump and second it's just a donor car with 70 000 km
Old 11-06-11, 05:39 PM
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There are two ways to jumper the check connector. I find it best to do it at the Circuit Opening relay because it controls the voltage supply to the the fuel pump and you can diagnose other problems related to the fuel system from this particular relay. The relay is Yellow and Black and is located under the dash just to the right of the steering wheel. It has two rows of wires, three on the top and two on the bottom. The bottom two wires are solid Black and a Brown wire. Jumper these two wires and the pump runs w/key to on.
Old 11-06-11, 05:46 PM
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Ok I will try that tommorow So I do not too prime the fuel system or is there even a way
Old 11-06-11, 05:52 PM
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You just need to jumper those two bottom wires. You will hear the fuel pump running with the key turned to "ON".

The circuit opening relay under the dash looks like this:



Old 11-06-11, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by James86
Ok I will try that tommorow So I do not too prime the fuel system or is there even a way
The jumper is what primes the system w/key to on otherwise the pump will not turn on unless the engine is running or the key is held to start.
Old 11-06-11, 07:06 PM
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Sweet that's diagram is very helpful thank you so much guys very very helpful I'm new to these rotaries but man oh man I love them I'll try that tommorow and let you know if I got her going
Old 11-06-11, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by James86
Sweet that's diagram is very helpful thank you so much guys very very helpful I'm new to these rotaries but man oh man I love them I'll try that tommorow and let you know if I got her going
Actually one more quick stupid question what side is the inlet on fuel rail so which one is return and inlet after filter
Old 11-06-11, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by James86
Actually one more quick stupid question what side is the inlet on fuel rail so which one is return and inlet after filter
If you followed the hose from the filter that would tell you where the inlet hose is thus the other one would have to be the outlet.
Old 11-06-11, 07:32 PM
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fuel filter hose -> front hard line
non filter hose -> rear hard line
Old 11-06-11, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
fuel filter hose -> front hard line
non filter hose -> rear hard line
Is this looking at car from front or sitting in it ?
Old 11-06-11, 07:43 PM
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do you drive in reverse?

somehow i knew this question was going to be asked too.. lol

mind you if this is a complete Jspec engine swap then those are reverse. wacky japanese do everything on the other side.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-06-11 at 07:45 PM.
Old 11-06-11, 07:56 PM
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Lol only backing out of driveway and I got it know just want as much info before I'm out there at my uncles it's just a 45 min drive from me so I just want to know what I'm doing instead of getting there second guessing but thank you for your time and you have your self a great night
Old 11-07-11, 01:37 PM
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Ok tried jumper wire still not running
Old 11-07-11, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by James86
Ok tried jumper wire still not running
Anything else
Old 11-07-11, 01:44 PM
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You jumpered those two wires together, turned the key to "ON" (NOT "START")... And nothing? No fuel pump sound near the rear or in the cabin?
Old 11-07-11, 05:26 PM
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Hey problem all fixed changed primary fuel injectors she is up and running running very smooth thanks again for all your help till hopefully no next time take care
Old 11-25-11, 06:24 PM
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ok, changed fuel injectors? Are you saying you swaped your primary and secondary injectors like you had put them in the wrong locations? Or you bought new injectors? I'm having the same problems as james86 was. My RX-7 is a 89 N/A with an engine rebuild. I did the jumper connection like satch showed.. the pump did not activate. I did however hear a clicking noise coming from the engine area. I have disconnected the two fuel lines from the fuel pump at the gas tank so I could see if the pump is activating/pumping when I turn the engine switch to on. Since I could never hear it anyway I thought I just had a bad pump. So I bought a new one. The new one works because I checked it by connecting it to the battery and saw it activate. The old one would not. I thought this would solve my problem, but it did not. So this jumper thing did not work for me either. No activation. If I try to start the engine, even if it's a quick engine turn, the pump will activate and I'll see a lot of gas shoot out from the pump. Yea, fuel lines disconected so I could see. Now I did a few different lengths of time trying to start the engine. It seems the fuel pump will keep pumping as long as the engine is turning but when I stop trying to start the engine the pump shuts off. I thought the pump is supposed to stay on to keep a constant pressure. Sooo... Any ideas? I'm stumpped and I'm tired of working on this car! I thought the engine rebuild and installation was the hard part. Oh yea, incase anybody is wondering, the car will start, but only for a couple seconds... fires up, revs to about 3000 rpms then just dies... A couple of pumps on the accelorator, restart and same thing...
Old 11-25-11, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Poker Player
ok, changed fuel injectors? Are you saying you swaped your primary and secondary injectors like you had put them in the wrong locations? Or you bought new injectors? I'm having the same problems as james86 was. My RX-7 is a 89 N/A with an engine rebuild. I did the jumper connection like satch showed.. the pump did not activate. I did however hear a clicking noise coming from the engine area. I have disconnected the two fuel lines from the fuel pump at the gas tank so I could see if the pump is activating/pumping when I turn the engine switch to on. Since I could never hear it anyway I thought I just had a bad pump. So I bought a new one. The new one works because I checked it by connecting it to the battery and saw it activate. The old one would not. I thought this would solve my problem, but it did not. So this jumper thing did not work for me either. No activation. If I try to start the engine, even if it's a quick engine turn, the pump will activate and I'll see a lot of gas shoot out from the pump. Yea, fuel lines disconected so I could see. Now I did a few different lengths of time trying to start the engine. It seems the fuel pump will keep pumping as long as the engine is turning but when I stop trying to start the engine the pump shuts off. I thought the pump is supposed to stay on to keep a constant pressure. Sooo... Any ideas? I'm stumpped and I'm tired of working on this car! I thought the engine rebuild and installation was the hard part. Oh yea, incase anybody is wondering, the car will start, but only for a couple seconds... fires up, revs to about 3000 rpms then just dies... A couple of pumps on the accelorator, restart and same thing...
sounds like a vacuum leak or a faulty AFM, try unplugging the AFM and see if it holds an idle longer.
Old 11-25-11, 06:37 PM
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Sorry AFM??? whats that in lamens terms? I'm using two manuals and your guys' inputs to get this car working...... What a ride!
Old 11-25-11, 06:44 PM
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Fuel pump only stays on with the key to start or w/the engine running in a normal situation. If you jumper the fuel check connector then it should run w/key to on.

Locate the Circuit Opening relay under the dash and just to the right of the steering wheel column (it's Black and Yellow). W/key to on the Black/White wire should have battery voltage on it. Does it? Also, check for voltage on the Black/Red wire with key to start and clutch depressed. Does it? If not then check the 15 amp Engine fuse in the interior fuse box. There is a solid Black wire in the relay plug which is a constant ground and could be used for the ground source necessary for the multimeter to provide a voltage reading.
Old 11-25-11, 07:01 PM
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"Fuel pump only stays on with the key to start or w/the engine running in a normal situation." Yea, I understand that part. That's why I said, the pump will not come on when I turn the key to start/on. But the fuel pump will pump while I'm cranking the car. I have checked the fuses, in engine bay and under dash. All are good. I have not used a multimeter before, so not sure how that works, though I do have one. But what is AFM that Karack suggested and what about my original question to you about the fuel injectors? What did you do? Oh yea, my RX-7 is an automatic... Don't leave me broken on the side of the road satch... Need your help please?

Last edited by Poker Player; 11-25-11 at 07:05 PM. Reason: addition
Old 11-25-11, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Poker Player
"Fuel pump only stays on with the key to start or w/the engine running in a normal situation." Yea, I understand that part. That's why I said, the pump will not come on when I turn the key to start/on. But the fuel pump will pump while I'm cranking the car. I have checked the fuses, in engine bay and under dash. All are good. I have not used a multimeter before, so not sure how that works, though I do have one. But what is AFM that Karack suggested and what about my original question to you about the fuel injectors? What did you do?
To check for voltage using the multimeter you set it to DC volts. Place the Red meter lead to the wire being tested and the Black meter lead to a ground and you will get a voltage reading. Use the solid Black wire in the relay as the ground and then to test the B/W wire you place the Red meter lead to that wire and w/key to on it should read 12 volts. Test the B/R wire as "suggested above" as well.

I am not the original poster so I did nothing to my injectors.
Old 11-25-11, 07:18 PM
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Oh yea,,sorry that was James... you were helping him and got stuck with me.. lol. Ok,, I'll try the multimeter tomorrow. It's dark and cold outside. But so if it reads voltage, then what? Oh yea,,, What is AFM?????


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