No Burnout For Me
#1
0 Pistons+0 Valves=Happy!
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No Burnout For Me
Hey, guys.. I have an '87 N/A. Here's what's goin on... When sitting at a light.. everything works fine.. The light turns green and I put it in first and drive off.. no problem. If I rev it higher like to get a faster launch of do a burnout, the car won't do it. The clutch slowly engages into the gear. It does this with all gears. It feels like the clutch just won't grab quickly. Any suggestions?
#3
0 Pistons+0 Valves=Happy!
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Thanks! I'm pullin the motor in a week. Since the clutch is gonna be open.. I am planning on replacing the clutch disc and pressure plate with parts from centerforce.. sound good?
#4
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I had no idea the NA clutch was so weak. I would think that if its slipping at a launch for an NA engine, then theres a problem and its worn?
But then again I've never actually driven my car for more than 5 damn minutes, I started ripping it apart and touching **** up, fixing and modding all the things I didn't like. In a way, for me, its almost more fun to fix my car up then to drive it.. ALthough I've never had a fast car before..
But then again I've never actually driven my car for more than 5 damn minutes, I started ripping it apart and touching **** up, fixing and modding all the things I didn't like. In a way, for me, its almost more fun to fix my car up then to drive it.. ALthough I've never had a fast car before..
#5
Sharp Claws
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should work fine for your application.
for the original concern, it sounds like your pressure plate sping pressure is just weak or your disc is worn. in both cases it is a good idea to replace all your clutch components (disc, pressure plate, TO bearing and pilot bearing).
for the original concern, it sounds like your pressure plate sping pressure is just weak or your disc is worn. in both cases it is a good idea to replace all your clutch components (disc, pressure plate, TO bearing and pilot bearing).
#6
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
N/A clutches were never really made for alot of hard driving like the turbo sees, so they used softer springs. This I discovered when doing some quick shifts before the trans blew, hence why when I did the TII trans swap into my car, I opted for a RB steel turbo flywheel and oem clutch.
#7
Do a barrel roll!
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A stock N/A clutch that is still in good shape, is not that weak. When I used to have my modded N/A, it would spin the tires no problem.. spin in 2nd and chirp 3rd, and that was on a stock clutch. Years of abuse just gets to them eventually, disc wears out, pressure plate starts to loose its grip, etc..
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#9
Do a barrel roll!
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Id recommed an ACT clutch kit. ( www.advancedclutch.com ). Ive known more than 1 person who have had problems with centerforce. I hear the SPEC clutches that www.rx7store.net sell are good also, but havent had personal experience with them.
#11
Super Raterhater
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The stock clutch gives in brand new condition starts slipping at 185rwhp, and slips completely at 195hp (won't even engage), granted, it's the torque #'s that really affect it, however I don't have the torque #'s for when it slipped, only HP. This means, for N/A's, the stock clutch works pretty good, but once it starts wearing/you get some power behind it, it lets loose
#13
Rotary Freak
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Originally Posted by fc3salb
I'm gonna be aiming for about 200hp, so the ACT organic clutch kit should more than suffice, right?
Also, I second the - no centerforce decision.
-a
#16
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Originally Posted by fc3salb
Stickin with N/A, but with the motor out, I'm gonna have it streetported. No nitrous.
#17
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well.. not JUST a streetport..lol! Other stuff too. I was just referring to getting that done since the motor is gonna be out anyways.
#18
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Nitrous is fun and reliable if installed correctly...I mean you cn be well over 200rwhp w/ a 75hp shot. I had a 75hp shot on my 88 GXL w/ streetport. That car was pretty FAST. The streetported engine put down 183rwhp w/o spraying. Add a 75hp shot to that and you do the math. It was certainly well over 200rwhp. Dont be scared and follow into the "nitrous is Bad" hype that people are always spreading.
#20
yeah, i don't see using nitrous on an auto-x course..lol..But the NA clutch shouldn't be so weak, my friends 87 SE with 160,000 miles will do a burnout all the way down the street and back and in to second and jerk the car sideways into third, it even felt like we lifted the front tires off the ground on one second gear rip. See what caused your clutch to go bad if it's not just bad driving habits (ie;riding the clutch, riding down the road resting your foot on the clutch pedal), or high mileage. Maybe your rear main engine seal leaked oil onto the clutch disc, you wouldn't want that to happen to your new clutch would you? just an idea. You are completely lifting your foot off of the clutch pedal aren't you? good luck
#22
Refined Valley Dude
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Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
Years of abuse just gets to them eventually, disc wears out, pressure plate starts to loose its grip, etc..
One weekend of abuse will kill a stock clutch. Ask me how I know.
And I'll add another ACT recommendation. My 87 NA has the 6-puck copper unit and it rocks.
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