I have no 12v power going to my coils or my injectors. I have checked all fuses inner and outter with a ohm tester. I Swaped coils out and a ECU. I also swaped out a main relay. I am stuck here. Any advice is welcomed.
Thanks,
Crhis

 

Does the starter work?????

If you pull the Main Relay out and put a meter on the Black/Green wire, do you have 12v? If not, check the 40 amp EGI fuse or the MAIN FUSE (the one held in with two 10mm socket size bolts).

If you have 12v at the Black/Green wire, then check the black/white wire on that same plug for 12v with the key to ON. No 12v there? ENGINE fuse blown, OR there is no power going to the ignition switch itself from the fuse box in the engine bay.

 

Yes I do have 12v.

I have power on both sides.

Hmm, there I only get 2.5v. Will recheck. Yep. 2.58v Sounds like a issue there.

I will check the power going to the ignition.

Thank you!
Chris

 

I get power from the main 80amp fues to the ignition. Then from the ignition to the 15 Engine fuse in the inner fuse box. It seems it is from the fuse box to the relays I have lack of power. 2.45v on the B/W wire on the Main Rrelay. I put a OHM meter on the fuse box 15 amp Engine Fuse to the relay and the B/W wire reads .245 on the main relay, and .046 on the smaller relay. Is that a bad reading? Sounds like it.

 

My bad. The Black/White wire I referred to should be on the OTHER plug on the Main Relay. See what is there, thank you. That plug should be the one with but two sockets.

 

You probably have 12v at the black/white of the two pin plug. Sooooo, what you could do, is jumper the Black/Green to the Black/Yellow wire in the four socket plug and the White/Blue to the Black/White wire in that same four socket plug, and you should be able to start the engine. Just bypassing the main relay.

At least then you would now find 12v at the coils black/yellow wire (small, white, two socket plug at the lead coil).

 

Battery is getting drainned a bit. So my Volt reading at the battery is 11.55v and the plug you refer to above reads 10.78v. Bit of a drop. What ya think? I will try the bypass thing you mentioned above next.

I do have power to the coils now, but still no spark.

 

Bad Main Relay???????

The low batt explains the lower voltage. No problem there.

You have a old CAS laying about????? Just attach the old cas to the harness and turn the key to ON. Spin the old cas's lower gear. Watch a sparkplug wire laying on the fender near a strut bolt/stud/nut. I'm betting it'll spark even with a low battery. No need to go to Start. Just key on, and spin the spare cas's bottom gear.

I'll look in later.

 

Bada boom bada bing............................
Thanks Hailers, that was the cure!
Chris

 

Holy fsk this is useful.

I have the exact same problems. Going to go try the recommended remedy.

Thanks guys!

 

Okay, here's what's going on with my 88.

I have no power at the black/green wire, but power [12 volts or there approximate] at the blue/white wire on the four-slot plug that goes into the relay.

There is power on the black / white wire on the little plug that goes into the relay, 12 volts, yay.

The entire damn car works. Headlights, windshield sprayer, all idiot and internal lights, literally everything, except no coils, no injectors and no tach.

The tach does not jump when you [attempt to] start the car.

I have replaced all of the fuses except for the 80amp main fuse, though when I bought a new one, it did not work, the entire car went dark. I assume this is because the 80amp fuse I bought had an open ended plug and the one I pulled had a closed - there's two grounds that attach to the bottom of that fuse.

We replaced all of the fuses in the driver's kickpanel fusebox, they're all fine and happy.

Now what?

EDIT: I have replaced the main relay, and the battery is good.

 

[QUOTE=little88thatcould;8674919]Okay, here's what's going on with my 88.

I have no power at the black/green wire, but power [12 volts or there approximate] at the blue/white wire on the four-slot plug that goes into the relay.
************************************************** ************************************************** ****************************
The two wires below the MAIN fuse are black but NOT grounds. The one fwd comes directly from the batt positive post. The aft one goes first to the alternators large output cable and then on to the ignition key assy. A pure black wire there also.

Loss of the MAIN fuse will not cause a loss of power to the EGI fuses in the engine bay fuse box.

Look at the jpgs attached. The W/L is white with blue stripe and comes from one of the EGI fuses. The 30 amp EGI fuse.

Look again and the B/G or black with green stripe, and it comes from the other EGI fuse. The 40 amp EGI fuse.

Look at your engine bay fuse box. Look at the 40amp fuse. Now look directly below that fuse and you should see a B/G wire attached there. THAT seems to be you problem. That fuse is bad or for some unknown reason that wire is *open* b/t there and the Main Relay plug. You might wiggle that wire at the fuse box while having a meter connected to the B/G at the Main Relays plug and see if power will come and go or???? That's as far as anybody can help on that problem

 

Sorry about that. I'm pretty new to the entire fiddling with electronics thing, so stupid mistake on my part. They just kinda looked like grounds. Maybe I'll know enough about this stuff by the time I'm done with the car to get my general or extra in ham radio.

Thanks, I'll go try what you've said and report back with what happens after that.

 

UPDATE:

So there's this... switch. In my car. Silver switch with a fake carbon-fiber cover. Y'know, like a trigger. Some ricer *** owned before I did. I didn't put it there.

It was wired into the EGI INJ and EGI COMP fuses. I don't know what the *** before me was doing with it, but it was badly wired with cheap-*** parts. We tore the switch out and found out there was 12v on one wire and not on the other. My brother wired the two wires together and viola, there's power at the black-green wire now, 12v, nice and happy like it should be. We assume the switch was supposed to kill power to everything so the car couldn't be stolen... wat.

Hooowwwever. Black/white wire on little plug has no 12v. 15amp Engine fuse in driver's kick panel is good. All fuses in the engine compartment are good, we ohm-d them out and tested for power, all is go.

... What does it mean that there's no power from the ignition switch from the fuse box...? Where do I look and where should I check? I know it's probably a stupid question, but I'm not sure what you mean by it.

Oh. Tach is still not jumping when you attempt to start the car.

 

********Hooowwwever. Black/white wire on little plug has no 12v. ************************************************** **************

Where is this wire and little plug????? The two wire plug on the Main Relay? If that is the wire, then it only gets power when the key is put to ON. If the plugs to the Main Relay are connected to the relay, and you put the key to ON, does the Main Relay click? IF so, then the black/white wire on the small, two wire plug is getting power.

The ignition key gets power from the engine bay fuse box. Its there on the ignition switch all day long. You put the key to On, and then that power goes thru the ignition switch to the interior fuse box to power up the ENGINE fuse and the other fuses on that line of fuses in the box. At the same time you put the key to ON, the Main Relay gets powered up. Gets that power from the ENGINE fuse that you just powered up by putting the key to ON.

If the Main Relay won't pull in, then you might suspect there is no power to the igniton switch. The three plugs to the Ignition Switch are about a foot fwd of the switch. One Igniton Switch plug has two wires. One is pure BLACK and the other Black/White. The pure BLACK is the power wire that comes from the engine bay fuse box. There is one connector inbetween. It is about a foot or less below the engine bay fuse box opposite where the a/c compressor would be. Make sure it's connected up.

 

Okay, nevermind. I ran back through my notes and there's power on that wire. Durrrr, sorry.

The car still won't start though.

Tomorrow or so I'm going to check if there's power at the coils / spark, now that [I think] power going to the appropriate places.

 

Coils have correct power!!! Woohoo!!!

Now for the injectors.

 

Okay, update. Both trailing and leading coils have power, 12volts there approximate, but I must be stupid or something, because I can't find my primary injectors. My secondary injectors don't have power though...

The tach wiggles when I try to start the car now, but the oil/gas gauges don't move, and I poured about 3 gallons of gas in the tank... I need to drain the oil and replace it.

 

Primarys are under the dynamic chamber. But if the secondary ones don't have power, then it's a given the primary don't either. No need to look.

That's really odd, because the same output wire on the Main relay that feeds the coils, feeds the fuel injectors. See the attached jpg. Either your not reading the meter right, or the FEM-02 plug is disconnected.OR you don't own a 88 but have a 87 and a early 87 at that i.e. pre july 87.

 

Hi Hailers. I was reading the meter wrong. Duh. That's embarrassing, lol. The secondary injectors do indeed have power, I'm just a bit stupid. Also: I HAVE SPARK! Yay! But um, the car still doesn't start. I don't know if I have power to the primaries, though. It started raining mid-work.