Anyone here have a non-turbo with nitrous? I was curious as to how they perform. ie:drag times I was tossing around the idea of a non-turbo with nitrous in my head for a bit more reliability for a daily driver yet still fully capable of opening up a can of whoop-***. I love my turbo motor but the N/A have the reliability edge.

 

I had a thread asking bout N20 too but it got Locked, but most ppl agree to not running N20. Their one guy on the forum running it though. I was tosing the idea too until the thread made me think twice about it.

 

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/NOS.htm

Everything you need to know about nitrous, thanks to SCathcart.

 

Yea I read that thread. Scathcart and someone else were bitchin at each other and Icemark shut it down. I'm just curious actually. Cause I met a guy a week ago with a streetported N/A running a 75 shot. Didnt see him get on it or anything I just talked to him for a bit and that was it. So I have been curious as to what kind of performance can be seen from a nitrous non turbo.

 

I think N20 might be the cheapest and fastest way to make a N/A fast. I'm curious also to see what time ppl are getting that are using n2o

 

how much does it effect your engines life? that would be one of my main concerns.

 

Don't think N20 hurts reliablity too much, cause it's only active at WOT. It deff. puts less stress on a motor than a turbo.

 

not much with a 60shot or so, on a young engine, but if you have a motor that is leaning out, the nitrous might push it off the cliff

 

well I am going to put n2o on my 88 gxl in around a month or if i can pay off my credit card sooner but last night I ran a 16.10 with a .509 reaction time witch is my best so far i am hopeing a 50 shot will at least put me to mid or low 15s.

 

well im doing this this starting in december and will prolly have it finished in march... reason is nitrous is only used when you want it... supercharger and turbo are used all the time, reason im taking a while to do it is because im going all out, im buying everything needed for safety and making sure my car is able to handle it without leaning out... if done properly i do not believe it would hurt the motor, of course im not going to run a huge shot but it wont be small.... after all my fuel mods i shouldnt ever run lean though... better safe than sorry and as scatheart said add 500 bucks to the kit for the safety stuff you have to buy... do it but only if you are going to do it right

 

16.10 is high..... what mods do you have if any? i would expect something like that from a vert

 

If you go gas on NA, anything more than 50 requires a build on the block.....port, doweling, etc.

 

um or not......

plenty of stock n/a's run a 60?65? whatever it is shot, however I wouldn't go higher

 

u guys better talk to Sean Cathcart......alot of mis-info has definitely got into your heads.

nitrous will stress the motor ONLY during activation (get a WOT-only microswitch) and the amount of stress is dependent on the HP rating just like if u modded your engine and it added 20hp. your engine will now have 20hp worth of wear.

Sean used to (he sold it to go back to N/A) run a combined 2 stage 280HP wet system in his T2.....obviously with alot of car upgrades (hardened stationary gears, clutch, fuel system....etc.).

the important things to rember are these:

- go wet system, never dry. wet doesnt rely on the injectors.
- make sure your fuel pump provides more than adequate pressure...walbro 255
- if u have an S4, ull need a resistor pack for the fuel pump. S5s already have it
- make sure u have a nitrous filter
- you'll need ignition retarding for shots over 75hp.
...........ive prolly forgot other important stuff, but its all in Seans write up.

oh yeah.......provided the right complimentray mods r in place............the HP shot is only as effective as the amount of traction u have. I ultimately plan on a single stage 120hp shot wet system, Ill definitely need wider rims and better tires....

ppl have this bad feeling about nitrous coz cars apparently blow up. that will only happen if u do not calculate the right fuel and nitrous (via the foggers in a wet system) or if your fuel pump isnt providing enough pressure. as Sean says, pick a HP level then pick a fuel level 3 times more to ensure normal to rich conditions.

and if your asking where i got all my info...............Sean lives close to me and we've talked about my system in great detail.

 

man i shoulda built an NA with a 125 shot

 

well ive thought of going turbo many times......even a 20b. but if u think about it, nitrous allows me some advantages:

- keeps me n/a = reliable and better milage
- i spend less money on a car that can potentially go as fast or faster than a turbo'd one
- with the complimentary mods i added, my car will become a better n/a........then i have the option of opening a can of whoopass!!...as one put it...when i need it.
- very easily removable if u want it out
- your HP depends on the amount of safety mods you do to handle the extra power u can "screw" on the fogger.

the only bad thing about nitrous is that most ppl think its cheating..........well talk to an old-fashioned muscle car guy and he'll tell u theres no replacement for displacement and that turbos r cheating.

 

well...the fact that i drive an rx7 instead of a honda civic to people i race with is already cheating enough

 

i dont know why all you ppl are saying turbos are unreliable, hello i beleave all 18 wheelers have big *** turbos in them and they travel 1000s of miles with out shutting down, as for nos, do it do a 50 or 75, post dyno or drag times and show all the antinos ppl what its all about, for me, my engine is "leaning" so i cant really push it any more...

 

Bullshit.
Don't pretend you know what you're talking about, I'll call you on it.

 

3 sizes larger on a 125 shot would have the engine running pretty rich... that's enough fuel for a 150 hp shot...

I like to jet two sizes rich on the fuel side, and then do a dry test with the car under load, and then a wet test and log the AFR's and EGT's. I then usually pull out 1-2 jets, adjust timing, fuelling, or fuel pressure until I am happy.

As for the ignition retard... the 75 hp number is a "forum-safe" value that I throw out there to keep idiots from running excessive jet sizes without doing any actual tuning to their timing. I would be lying if I said that I truly believed that the stock timing maps on an N/A are only good for 75 hp shots.

There are a few other ways to have some problems under nitrous use:
1. Engage the system when the auxilary ports are closed. Say hello to nitrous backfire, and a blow apart intake track.
2. Bounce off the rev limiter. Goodbye engine.

There are pretty easy soultions to both of these.


I am doing a nitrous install and tune this weeked to a forum members car... stock engine, just starting out with a 50 shot. I'll have to snap some pictures.

 

Hey Sean, its Carlos from BCRX-7...

can you send me some pics of that install as you're gonna' be doing it to my car soon as well.................still waiting for the damned kit to arrive.

 

Hay scathcart
quick ? i have a 87 t2. fuel pump upgrade 255 walbro and turbo back ex. other then that it stock. My boy has a 93 with a t-78 and all the mods dyno at 435rwhp we just added water injection, now he thinking about nos about a 50-75 shot. what do you think, is it a good idea on etheir car. Thanks Tony

 

To use to aid spool, or under boost?

 

Do it right if you're going to do it. That's the response I get when ever I ask about n20. A "dry shot" of nitrous into the intake is aperantly not the right way to go about it. A "wet shot" that goes in with fuel, I have been told is the most controlable and "safest" method.


I plan on adding a 100hp wet shot to my GSL-SE with a holley carb via a carb plate system this summer, and have been assured that if properly setup it will be no harder on a rotary than it is on any other motor.


--Alex

 

i need a 50 shot on my TII. thats like 75hp and tq.