Hey everyone this is a picture of a TID that I happened to come across from one of my dsm friends. I saw it on his car and thought, that would fit my car perfectly. So after ordering one and trying it, you can see just how well it fits in there for a car running a aftermarket single turbo. It is a 4" inlet and a 4" outlet. Price was only $69, made from aluminum. Pm me for details cuz I'm not sure if I can post up here where I got this from.

 

what is so new about this?

 

Uh it's a different idea to use...and its new because I haven't seen anyone else on here have one. The TID shown is for a dsm, but as you can see it fits perfect for our cars.

 

There are a few people on here who have made TIDs or used piping from some other cars intake on theirs. Nice find on the DSM piece though, can't say I've seen that yet. The prelude intake seems to be what many use, but I think that works for the stock turbo. I like my TID! The coupler for my TID to turbo is now black.

 

Did you construct that Cold air box yourself? Or is that something more widely avaliable?

 

...boost logic 4in. polished aluminum for supras; mated to the biggest filter i've ever seen.

 

It is a Mariah Motorsports cold air box. The TID was fabbed out of aluminum by A-spec Tuning.


Holy crap! I dunno if I'd call that a TID. That's just a monsterous filter with a couple inches of tubing attached!

 

Well it matches the 4in inlet on my turbo, and since im running haltech i have no maf

 

I just bought a cheapo intake kit at autozone. I'm using an AEM Dryflow filter.



I'm running an LT8s so no AFM for me either.

 

I paid 14shipped for my Prelude intake. 15-20 minutes to cut it to fit and it was done. It's cool that you found something that will work though. Maybe the time and effort you save is worth the extra 50 bux to some. It's a good tip.

 

If you want to do a little more fabbing then go cold air like I did and get the filter out in front of the radiator support. 3" hole saw fits between the back of the right headlight and side of the radiator perfectly.

 

yea it was something I hadn't seen people using the 2g DSM Intake pipe for our cars so I thought I would share it, and just give people another option.....

 

OK, maybe it's just me, but I don't find any reason to go into such drastic measures in building a "cold-air intake" when you have it all going through the turbo and into the INTERCOOLER. They whole idea behind an intercooler is to cool the intake charge as much as possible. The only thing that you have done there, was add more restriction and charge-time with all that piping and bends.

 

haha i was about to say the same thing
***** way to hxc for that

 

Wow, you must be kidding right? Colder air in means colder air out regardless of what size intercooler you have. I'll make it as simple as possible for you. Scale from 1-10 If AIAT is at 8 and you have 50% eff from the core your IAT is now at 4. However if you choose to just suck in AIAT at 10 with your 50% eff core do you think your IAT is still going to have a numerical value of 4?? I dont think so. Any one who says there is no need to duct colder air to the inlet of a turbo because it's useless due to heat from compression is some one you should stay away from. It only gets even sillier when you try and say the IC will make up for it. If I put 10 degrees in or 150 degrees in, it's all relative the IC efficiency doesn't change. Not unless you've invented variable efficient cores. Even if you went to the extreme and said core eff does change with heat soak your only proving yourself wrong at that point as a hotter core will only provide, you guessed it..... hotter air.


-S-

 

What I was trying to say is that the 5* cooler air will be off-set by the restriction of all the bends and piping. These bends and piping will also off-set charge time. Take it as you will.

 

i think both do make a good point. hey boosted why didnt you take it to the front bumper or out of the wheel well?

 

You think its only a 5 degree difference?

Thats why NO ONE runs water/alcohol injection.......because the "5 degrees" cooler air doesn't make any difference...........

 

-=( i need a turbo... lol

 

My only problem with taking the air from down in the bumper is that the filter would end up right behind the FMIC (hot air coming out the back off it). As for the wheel well I thought about it also but it would have been more piping and more bends to get it there. I choose where it is for 2 reasons. First, it was the shortest distance to get the filter out of the engine compartment. Second, I figured if the stock air box and inlet duct get air from in front of the radiator support then why not get it from there again. As a bonus I was able to trim the black plastic cover for the AC evaporator and use it to hide that ugly *** S4 mass air flow.

 

You're wrong. Unless you make a complete hash of it, that's simply not what happens. And there is significantly more than 5deg difference between ambient air and engine bay air. That should be pretty obvious...

 

Given that you mentioned it's for a DSM and it says Forced Performance on your coupler, I don't imagine it's too much more to say where you got it from

 

good eye

 

Once I get my engine assembled, I plan on making a cold air box similar to Juiceh's and use a hole saw to cut holes behind the pass. headlight at the radiator support. No MAF for me either with Megasquirt.

 

Old *** thread but just curious, did anyone do a writeup on this?

I am thinking about get getting an NA intake pipe off of ebay and doing this but was there a definitive answer as to what do to with the lines coming off the intake? Not quite sure what do, since I will be retaining the stock BOV.