New T2 owner, few questions.
05-09-11, 10:39 AM
#26
Freshly Built Streetport
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I friend of mine has the Corksport exhaust on his S5 Turbo and it sounds pretty good. It's louder and a little more raspy sounding than the HKS silent hi power on my S4 TII. The muffler and tip is also bigger on my HKS.
05-09-11, 11:46 AM
#27
so its been forrrrever sence i logged in even though im on the site everyday anyway i have the Corksport "power series" on my t2 and i like it. but i will say it's loud the muffler is not even baffled its just resonated and even though i have not got a ticket for it yet.... i have been pulled over for it more then once so if its your dd like mine it might not be the best to go. with all the bad being said love how it sounds and feels its just loud
thing of the "power series" exhaust.
05-09-11, 07:07 PM
#28
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When the corksport muffler is nicely tucked up into the bumper like on my friend's, it really doesn't look that big. Where my muffler still looks big even when it's tucked up under the bumper. The HKS tip is 5 inches, where I think the Corksport is 4. Both have 3 inch piping though. The FC in the video looks and sounds like an NA, because it doesn't really sound anything like either of the exhausts I've been talking about.
This is more accurate for what I know of the corksport turbo exhaust:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7j7m...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pM4Tp...854ECBB1A61841
And here is an HKS for comparison:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEXzJG3y5VM
If you're in the Twin Cities area, I'm sure we can get together at some point so you can hear the differences if you really want. Price is a factor too, as a full Corksport (DP, Cat Delete, and Catback) is $650 where an HKS catback alone is $550ish. PM me if you want to meet up or something.
This is more accurate for what I know of the corksport turbo exhaust:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7j7m...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pM4Tp...854ECBB1A61841
And here is an HKS for comparison:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEXzJG3y5VM
If you're in the Twin Cities area, I'm sure we can get together at some point so you can hear the differences if you really want. Price is a factor too, as a full Corksport (DP, Cat Delete, and Catback) is $650 where an HKS catback alone is $550ish. PM me if you want to meet up or something.
05-09-11, 07:58 PM
#29
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And just out of curiosity, did you buy that car from a guy named Paul in Zimmerman? Because that car looks familiar and I gave him my old intake that looks a lot like yours? It's even rusting in the same places. Just curious because there aren't a ton of TII's around here.
05-10-11, 11:42 AM
#30
When the corksport muffler is nicely tucked up into the bumper like on my friend's, it really doesn't look that big. Where my muffler still looks big even when it's tucked up under the bumper. The HKS tip is 5 inches, where I think the Corksport is 4. Both have 3 inch piping though. The FC in the video looks and sounds like an NA, because it doesn't really sound anything like either of the exhausts I've been talking about.
I know its an N/A that was my previous car it was fairly loud, since it had flowmaster 40s, magnaflow cat, and pacesetter header. Thats why I was saying I know youtube isn't a very good judge of how loud something is. 
And just out of curiosity, did you buy that car from a guy named Paul in Zimmerman? Because that car looks familiar and I gave him my old intake that looks a lot like yours? It's even rusting in the same places. Just curious because there aren't a ton of TII's around here.
And I bet you were the person that asked him to check if the person he was selling to was keeping the rotary in it, to which I replied by pointing to the bleeding rotor on my ribcage rotor shirt.
On another side note, I got some different lights and found that the old wires were never really replace...
Last edited by thatman; 05-10-11 at 11:47 AM.
05-10-11, 03:37 PM
#31
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Funny, I was the person that told him to make sure whoever buys it keeps the rotary, because I wanted the engine if it was going to get V8 swapped. PM'd...
And the Corksport exhaust on my buddies TII is probably quieter than your NA was
And the Corksport exhaust on my buddies TII is probably quieter than your NA was
Last edited by TIIFC3S; 05-10-11 at 03:52 PM.
06-10-11, 11:53 AM
#33
Hi all, so I recently sent my ECU to Rtek(though they are closed until the 20th
) and ordered a block off plate. Also was getting a new fuel filter and the dual pulley. Then I found a okay exhaust from Topspeed Pro-1 I'll let yall know how that works out.
My question is about the alternator...mine is confirmed bad only giving out about 13.5v.
So I know the stock is only about 70-80 amps and I was planning on running a 500(maybe1000) watt amp to some subs, and yes I know R.m.s. is what really matters but anyhow, I also have some slightly higher than average bulbs too.
So should I go with a 110 amp alternator
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-...item2c5ccc4182
And save some money?
Or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-...item2c5b33f017
This one for more?
Or neither and a new stock one would be good enough?
) and ordered a block off plate. Also was getting a new fuel filter and the dual pulley. Then I found a okay exhaust from Topspeed Pro-1 I'll let yall know how that works out. My question is about the alternator...mine is confirmed bad only giving out about 13.5v.
So I know the stock is only about 70-80 amps and I was planning on running a 500(maybe1000) watt amp to some subs, and yes I know R.m.s. is what really matters but anyhow, I also have some slightly higher than average bulbs too.
So should I go with a 110 amp alternator
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-...item2c5ccc4182
And save some money?
Or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-...item2c5b33f017
This one for more?
Or neither and a new stock one would be good enough?
07-03-11, 02:00 AM
#34
Well here is the exhaust I got:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i93i6SjPVt4
Now my question is, should I get a boost controller?
And, does the stock air intake actually route more air to the filter? Like the little plastic piece that goes over the fan?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i93i6SjPVt4
Now my question is, should I get a boost controller?
And, does the stock air intake actually route more air to the filter? Like the little plastic piece that goes over the fan?
Last edited by thatman; 07-03-11 at 02:18 AM.
07-04-11, 12:44 AM
#37
Anyway I did a quick search but didn't quite see how to port my waste-gate, do I need to do that? I think it sounds pretty good...Well, get yourself one.
I sold my N/A and found a deal within a month and a half or so and here it is. That and tax return helped, including getting an R6....speaking of them I really wish I could find a Suzuki RE5....or a Norton....
But look on the bright side, my engine has never been rebuilt(I dont think so) so I have a time-bomb on my hands...
Oh and check out what I took off:
But this is what replaced it:
Last edited by thatman; 07-04-11 at 12:49 AM. Reason: forgot things...
07-04-11, 05:44 PM
#38
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You have a ticking time bomb on your hands? I'm getting to around 150k miles on my TII! I have a little fear in the back of my mind everytime I drive it. Anyway, I ported my wastegate and that really slowed down the boost creep. Pre porting, it would boost all the way to 15lbs if I didn't notice and shift first. Now I haven't really seen it go above 10-11lbs. There's a good write up on wastegate porting on FC3Spro.
I know you don't need a boost gauge because of your Rtek and your stock boost guage works fine. But I feel an aftermarket boost gauge would be more accurate and easily understood than the stock one. My stock gauge works (sometimes), but once I get above the max boost level, your guess is as good as mine as to what I'm really running. You may be experiencing boost creep and not know it due to not knowing your true boost levels. Before your exhaust you probably didn't need a different boost gauge, but now your car will breath much different, and boost much higher. My car pulled real hard at 15lbs of boost, but the added power wasn't worth the chance of a blown engine. With a boost gauge, then you'll be able to better determine if you need a boost controller or not. Remember, a boost controller can turn up boost, but it can't turn it down farther than what your wastegate can control. But here is the gauge I bought, I really like it, though it's a little tough to read in direct sunlight.
http://www.optionimports.com/itemdes...LM5231&eq=&Tp=
It does that cool startup calibration movement too. I have an unused single gauge pod if you want it. I bought it and then decided to go with a dual for my boost and AFR gauges. Let me know
I know you don't need a boost gauge because of your Rtek and your stock boost guage works fine. But I feel an aftermarket boost gauge would be more accurate and easily understood than the stock one. My stock gauge works (sometimes), but once I get above the max boost level, your guess is as good as mine as to what I'm really running. You may be experiencing boost creep and not know it due to not knowing your true boost levels. Before your exhaust you probably didn't need a different boost gauge, but now your car will breath much different, and boost much higher. My car pulled real hard at 15lbs of boost, but the added power wasn't worth the chance of a blown engine. With a boost gauge, then you'll be able to better determine if you need a boost controller or not. Remember, a boost controller can turn up boost, but it can't turn it down farther than what your wastegate can control. But here is the gauge I bought, I really like it, though it's a little tough to read in direct sunlight.
http://www.optionimports.com/itemdes...LM5231&eq=&Tp=
It does that cool startup calibration movement too. I have an unused single gauge pod if you want it. I bought it and then decided to go with a dual for my boost and AFR gauges. Let me know
Last edited by TIIFC3S; 07-04-11 at 05:47 PM.
07-05-11, 10:18 AM
#39
I'm sure there is likely a cheaper boost gauge though....But what exactly do you have to do to run the boost gauge?
I mean in my case I suppose I would run like a tri split for the vacuum hose? Maybe that's why its not as accurate as it should be, I have like a splitter that makes air take two 90 degree bends.
But anyhow, when I said timebomb I was just referring to the assumption that most TIIs dont live past 100k without a rebuild.
I mean in my case I suppose I would run like a tri split for the vacuum hose? Maybe that's why its not as accurate as it should be, I have like a splitter that makes air take two 90 degree bends.But anyhow, when I said timebomb I was just referring to the assumption that most TIIs dont live past 100k without a rebuild.
07-05-11, 11:32 AM
#40
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There are much cheaper boost gauges, that's just the one I bought. It looks and works like Defi gauges, but cheaper. I like electrical gauges over mechanical as they seem to respond faster and they look much better. Also mine has a built in warning light. I have it set to blink at 12lbs. I don't think mechanical gauges can offer that. But I think your stock gauge is as accurate as it can be, but it's designed to go only to +40 or 7.7lbs of boost. I'm not sure, but I doubt it can read past that. So any time it's reading +40, you can be boosting 7.7lbs, or 15lbs. You just don't know. That's why I feel it's a safe investment to have a more versatile gauge.
Installation wise, all you need is the basic power/ground/lights connections made and than it needs to be hooked up to a source that sees both vacuum and boost. Your vac setup is significantly more complicated than mine as you still have your emissions, but I have my boost gauge solenoid T'd in with my BOV and and boost sensor. With the source being a little nipple right behind and below the BAC on the UIM. You're ok with with T connectors, but the more stuff you have hooked into the same vac source, the weaker I'd imagine the reading will be.
I think we all have ticking time bombs on our hands. But my buddy is probably going to the dark side and converting to an LSx, so that means I may be getting a recently rebuild, S5 13BT with a mild streetport next year. We'll see...
Installation wise, all you need is the basic power/ground/lights connections made and than it needs to be hooked up to a source that sees both vacuum and boost. Your vac setup is significantly more complicated than mine as you still have your emissions, but I have my boost gauge solenoid T'd in with my BOV and and boost sensor. With the source being a little nipple right behind and below the BAC on the UIM. You're ok with with T connectors, but the more stuff you have hooked into the same vac source, the weaker I'd imagine the reading will be.
I think we all have ticking time bombs on our hands.
But my buddy is probably going to the dark side and converting to an LSx, so that means I may be getting a recently rebuild, S5 13BT with a mild streetport next year. We'll see...
07-05-11, 11:43 PM
#41
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Look in the for sale Ads on the forums if your on a budget. I picked up an Apexi exhaust in good condition for around $100 also got a Hks front mount with all piping for $100. Got a T2 tranny for 150.
You can get quality parts at a cheap price from forum members that just don't need them anymore.
You can get quality parts at a cheap price from forum members that just don't need them anymore.
07-06-11, 01:33 AM
#43
^Yeah I was thinking about that but I fixed the Specter one.
I see, well after fixing a little issue(see below) it seems like its right on. I think I will get more of an indication when I dyno the car.
But yeah good luck on landing that deal, but at the same time its too bad to see one go to the dark-side.
Yeah, the Top speed Pro-1 exhaust is not that bad at all for the price I paid. But thanks for reminding me.
Anyhow have I mentioned I have a STRONG dislike for the vacuum hoses.
The hose going to the....whatever....needed to be bigger but I thought I had it on there, evidently not good enough. So I fixed it with some Yamabond.
There are much cheaper boost gauges, that's just the one I bought. It looks and works like Defi gauges, but cheaper. I like electrical gauges over mechanical as they seem to respond faster and they look much better. Also mine has a built in warning light. I have it set to blink at 12lbs. I don't think mechanical gauges can offer that. But I think your stock gauge is as accurate as it can be, but it's designed to go only to +40 or 7.7lbs of boost. I'm not sure, but I doubt it can read past that. So any time it's reading +40, you can be boosting 7.7lbs, or 15lbs. You just don't know. That's why I feel it's a safe investment to have a more versatile gauge.
*snip*
I think we all have ticking time bombs on our hands. But my buddy is probably going to the dark side and converting to an LSx, so that means I may be getting a recently rebuild, S5 13BT with a mild streetport next year. We'll see...
*snip*
I think we all have ticking time bombs on our hands.
But my buddy is probably going to the dark side and converting to an LSx, so that means I may be getting a recently rebuild, S5 13BT with a mild streetport next year. We'll see...But yeah good luck on landing that deal, but at the same time its too bad to see one go to the dark-side.
Look in the for sale Ads on the forums if your on a budget. I picked up an Apexi exhaust in good condition for around $100 also got a Hks front mount with all piping for $100. Got a T2 tranny for 150.
You can get quality parts at a cheap price from forum members that just don't need them anymore.
You can get quality parts at a cheap price from forum members that just don't need them anymore.
Anyhow have I mentioned I have a STRONG dislike for the vacuum hoses.
The hose going to the....whatever....needed to be bigger but I thought I had it on there, evidently not good enough. So I fixed it with some Yamabond.
07-06-11, 10:25 AM
#44
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That's your stock blow off/recirculating valve. Problem fixed though. Strong dislike for vac hoses? Time to ditch all those emissions then...
Strong dislike for vac hoses? Time to ditch all those emissions then...
06-13-13, 11:29 PM
#46
Well it has been a trip and the journey is still going.
See?
And see?
Well anyway, I still need a Fuel pressure regulator, What one is best for my application?
Walboro 255,straight turbo back exhaust, Rtek 2.1
And speaking of Rtek, does anyone have a generic tune I can get? I was reading that I should retard the timing but first get my AFR sorted out.
Thanks in advance, I appreciate the feedback.
See?
And see?
Well anyway, I still need a Fuel pressure regulator, What one is best for my application?
Walboro 255,straight turbo back exhaust, Rtek 2.1
And speaking of Rtek, does anyone have a generic tune I can get? I was reading that I should retard the timing but first get my AFR sorted out.
Thanks in advance, I appreciate the feedback.
