Did a search but can't seem to find this exact problem.

I just dropped my newly rebuilt engine in my 88TII. After a few minor problems, I can now get the car to start, but it will not run.

Basically, if I crank the car with the fuel pump killed via the kill switch to clear the fuel out I can get the car to catch, then I flip the switch to turn the fuel pump back on and the car will start. It will rev up to like 2,000 or 2,500 RPM, then it dies again.

Is this normal? Do I need to just keep doing this until it will finally hold? Or what should I check if this indicates a problem?

 

This may help.......
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...r/breakin.html

 

also make sure you afm is plugged in

 

Yah, AFM is definately plugged in

I went through the rotary resurrection stuff, but it doesn't really address the problem I'm having, since the car is starting it just won't stay started

 

I also tried re-stabbing the CAS, no change.

I don't know if it matters, but I am running NA rotors and FD housings.

 

When mine did that, it was the AFM. Between the time I took the engine out, and put it back in, the fuel pump switch in it died (I must have bumped it pretty good or something?). Try jumpering the fuel pump test connector (yellow plug in a black rubber case on the passanger side strut tower), and see it it stays running.

 

Yup, tried that, no change. Jumpered the connection so the pump would always run with the key to "on", no change though, still just starts then dies.

 

Also checked fuel lines to make sure they're not switched, and they're good, so any other ideas?

 

Are you sure you are getting spark and fuel? I know you said you checked the lines, but did you check them for fuel actually spurting out?

 

Bloody hell.. i had a problem a lot like this, right before I switched to my megasquirt. the car would turn over every time, and only run for about a half a second.. my guess was fuel injectors, though I never found out for sure. Good luck.

 

Well I didn't disconnect the line, but you can feel the fuel in them if you squeeze them and activate the pump, not to mention all the smoke and fuel smell that comes out the exhaust

Spark is fo sho, both leading and trailing.

Injectors were cleaned etc, but I know that doesn't mean a whole lot

 

No, cleanign doesn't help.. as far as I got was diagnosing a wiring problem to the injectors.. I think. i enver got to test my theory, cause I got pissed off, and put in a megasquirt. With the megasquirt, I was able to replicate the problem by flooding my engine, by tuning my secondary injecotrs on with the primaries... so I think its a grounding issue for the injectors, maybe? I dunno.. wish I coudl be of more help I'm sure other people will have other ideas..

 

You're SURE you don't have a vaccum leak?

Check where the manifolds come together... it sounds very much like a vaccum leak... followed by the normal S4 difficulty with flooding.

I know it's a PITA and I double checked for vacuum leaks on my rebuild... but I STILL had one that I just didn't notice... so go through EVERYTHING and make sure it's not a leak before you try anything else!

--Gary

 

Have you tried to "prop" the idle up with the gas pedal?
Rebuilts can be stubborn and not idle at stock spec.
I normally bump up the idle to around 1,000 to 1,500RPM right after a rebuild just to make it a little nicer to drive around.


-Ted

 

Gas pedal input doesn't effect it, I can have it floored, half-way, or just barely down and the car will do the same thing

 

Well, I checked as best I can, looked over everything etc, but I don't know a good way (other than looking closely) to find a vacuum leak when the car isn't running.

I did find that my SAFC was hooked up incorrectly, and I fixed that problem, now the car is revving a little better and I seem to have momentary throttle control, but it's still just revving and then dying.

 

What kinda mods to the car?
Are you running an upgrade fuel pump?
Are you running larger fuel injectors?


-Ted

 

Mods are fairly basic

S5 turbo and manifold

No emmissions or cats

Walbro 255 fuel pump

Stock injectors, cleaned with new o-rings

SAFC

FCD

Street port, FD housings, S4 NA rotors

TID mod

RP exhaust, downpipe

That's about it

 

you may want to make sure the settings on the safc are correct! If they aren't then it could cause that.

 

double check your connections on the afm wire that you tap into with the safc

i had this exact problem a week or so after i got my car back from landers..

turns out the wires were loose or had a horrible connection.... landers didnt want to solder it in , just in case i moved it or did something else with it ....
once i got those wires soldered the problem went away

i bet its your afm wire at the ECU

 

Yah, I was wondering about that ::think::

I think maybe for now I'll just disconnect the SAFC from the AFM wire and re-connect the AFM straight through and see if that fixes it.

 

Well, I'm starting to think it might be the AFM...

I was thinking maybe my SAFC was causing problems, so I disconnected it. Car did the exact same thing. SO, for kicks I disconnected the AFM wire at the ECU, car did the exact same thing...

Now I know that when the AFM door is open, the fuel pump kicks on, I tested that. Also, when I had the AFM hooked to the SAFC it was giving me an airflow reading, but is it possible the AFM is toast anyway? Is there anything else that the AFM feeds the ECU that could be toast?

 

you should be able to ****** a used afm for cheap .. ive gone thru about 3 with my car ...

dont pay more than 30 bucks for one though ... check the forsale section here, and of course ebay ...

i MAY have a known working one in my garage if you cant find another one ...

 

Good to know...

Is there a way to test with a multimeter whether or not an AFM is good?

 

yeah
the FSM has a way ... you have to have a multimeter

check the fsm ... its in there somewhere .. if it slows down here at work i'll look for and post the page #'s

its under the emissions section im pretty sure


****EDIT****

4B-60 in the fsm has the test method