You may end up changing the title of your thread to "New fuel pump, then now a used pump and Problems"

You need to isolate the problem, instead of throwing new variables into the mix. Sure, the used pump you're buying may work and may fix your problem, but more than likely. It won't.

Like I said above, you change something and expect one of three outcomes:

1) It's fixed

2) It's the same

3) New problem

 

im about to go test the fuel pressure. do you guys know waht the pressure should be at about 4000 rpms?

 

Replaced fuel filter still does it. Idk if idk how to use the fuel pressure gauge or it doesnt work because the needle doesnt work

 

You tap the gauge inline with the the fuel feed line. Honestly, if you can't figure out how to test fuel pressure, watch some Youtube videos, or take the car to someone who can diagnose the car. I'd hate to hear about you burning your car to the ground.

The FSM has the specs, but you should have about 40 psi key on engine off. Under load you don't want it falling below 40psi.

 

i did it as the fsm says jumped that yellow connector, used a 3 way connector between the engine and the fuel filter. Gas goes through it, i can turn it on but the gauge will not go up.

 

 

then you either have a bad gauge, or put it in the return line. The pressure line comes from the filter. Also, make sure that the end of the gauge that threads into the middle of the tee is actually depressing the schrader valve. I have seen the tips get broken off inside. When you jumpered the connector, can you hear the pump running?

 

I cant heat it over the antenna

 

the car wouldn't run if the pump isn't turning on and doing something, but without a fuel pressure reading it is not helpful.

 

i just took out the pump again and the filter is all dirty so im gonna guess its just my gas tank being all dirty thats causing the problem?

 

if the tank is rusty internally then you may need a new tank or to have yours reconditioned. if it isn't rusty but just has a bit of junk on the bottom then you can flush it out with a few gallons of E85.

the pump sock may also be compromised, along with the pump.

 

theres junk all over the sides. so i for sure have to get this reconditioned. or is this something i can do my self

 

no, try talking to Kool radiators on meade ave.

 

What he said^

I know POR -15 makes a tank restoration kit, but take it to professionals

 

i shall do that, its right down the street from where i work. how much does it usually run?

 

i haven't used them personally but some customers have. one of the workers has a 10th AE and has been by my shop when i was there.

 

So I ended up cleaning it.and it runs fine now. Except when I start it cold it goes to 3k rpms like it should then it starts bouncing from 1500 to 1800 and it dies I start it again and it jumps but it stays on and keeps jumping until it warms up which takes forever

 

Sounds like your BAC valve may not be any good. Coolant runs through it as well to stabilize the idle. Make sure your coolant level is good and make sure the thermowax is adjusted correctly, or working at all.

 

There's also a strong smell going inside the car burns my eyes lol.

 

Did you relocate the battery to the bin inside the vehicle by chance? If it's not a dry cell it will burn your eyes. It's also poisonous.... and can become explosive as well.

If it's not that, burning coolant or exhaust gases.

 

burning eyes is usually high levels of hydrocarbons, like 5000+, from a severe rich condition.

 

We'll I think there's an exhaust leak. Right by the engine it sounds abnormalyou loud from underneath

 

Also what would causeit to run rich

 

Tons of things can cause it to run rich, but an exhaust leak will smell bad on a 13B, regardless of if its rich or lean.

It's impossible for us to know from behind a keyboard. You will need to fix the exhaust leak, then worry about the rich condition, IF it's rich.

 

Do you guys know what would cause the idle to bounce when cold? It evens out when it gets up to temp