Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

Yesterday I installed my Racing Beat streetable header and pre-silencer. It went well, except for the o2 sensor wire pulling out of the harness underneath the UIM/TB when I went to disconnect the clips. Per the instructions and provided hardware, I also used the block off plate for the air control valve/check valve unit and removed the air pump. On my first try, in all my heat exhausted glory, I accidentally only went around the perimeter of the block off plate with RTV...Started the car, and it wouldn't hold idle. There was also a loud vacuum leak from that area. So I pulled the plate off and frosted the plate like a cake (Since the vacuum ports aren't supposed to interfere with eachother, it didn't matter how I did it) and re-installed it. The loud sucking noise was gone but the car still will not hold idle.

Figuring I would just deal with it until I had time to re-wire the o2 sensor (Assuming that's the problem) I tried adjusting my idle speed a bit higher. No change, though.

So, I'm not sure what the problem is for sure. Assuming the o2 sensor wire is the gray shielded piece with the black wire inside of it (In the harness just behind the alternator), the o2 sensor would have never been connected since I bought the car anyways. And I was getting consistent 22mpg figures...23 on the last tank of 3/4 interstate usage.

I'm needing opinions, since I must fix this by Sunday. If the o2 sensor was completely disconnected, would that make the car run like crap at idle..load up and then stall? Do you think re-installing the ACV/CV and air-pump would remedy the situation?

T.I.A. for your help, guys.

Eple

Re-install the O2 sensor.

Brody8877

iTrader: (10)

the o2 sensor wont effect the idling issue. Check your TPS or any additional vac leaks. Also did you remove your BAC? If you remove you BAC you will have trouble with cold start.

Also for n/a we recommend you keeping your air pump for the 6port actulator.

st1llet0

iTrader: (2)

You probably already thought of this, but on the back of the LIM there is a nipple that fed the catalytic converter air from the airpump. Normally the thing blows out... You have no airpump to blow air out, now it's sucking. Cap it me thinks.

I'm probably wrong, I usually am.

Eple

Ooops, reading owns me :]

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

The racing beat instructions said to remove the airpump and air control valve. I do believe that whatever nipple thing stil is talking about was part of the air control valve, which is removed the blocked off with the racing beat supplied plate.

I guess it wouldn't hurt anything to re-install the airpump and air control valve, right?

T24U

If you are talking about the split air pipe that goes to the stock cat, then yes you are wrong. Once the air pump is removed, where the pipe attached is just sort of a "dead hole". No air blowing out of it from the pump, nothing getting sucked in. They do have block off plates to clean it up a little, but it is only for aesthetic reasons.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

you might want to check for exhaust leaks too. On my exhaust if an exhaust leak comes up you can tell becuase the idle gets all messes up. When you put sealer and tighten it it is fine