even tho our cars sound like lawn mowers sometimes, I have yet to find the "pull start" cord on mine
We tried to push start my car when it wouldnt start... put my truck behind it and pushed it up to like 30km/h, let the clutch out in second gear and we could hear the engine turning and going, but once I stopped pushing it it wouldnt run under its own power
Ah well...

 

My fuel pump is deader than disco. If I pull start it, it'll just spin the motor. It's got no gas. I think the fuel pump was the problem the whole time.

 

Alright, Bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, bad leading coil, bad spark plug wires. everything old is new again. The only thing I haven't replaced is the starter, and the passenger side wiper blade and it still wont start!!!
Got compression
Got crank angle sens alignment
Got spark
Got fuel
Got milk
Won't damn start!!!

 

I bought a honda prelude to drive while I work on my 7. Please help. I'm serious I hate the damn honda. Brrrrrrrrrrpftbrrrrrrrrrrrrclunkbrrrrrrrrmmmm. I wanna cry! Now the honda needs a alternator, I'm gonna burn it the day my RX-7 starts.

 

My rebuilt fired right up... No emissions crap, no thermowax pellets, no acv, bac, nothing not essential to life and it has only flooded on me once. (cracked heater hose caused me to shut it down hot and I accidentally bumped the peddal when I was getting back in)

Main pulley aligned on the leading mark, cas gear lined up with the dot (watch the upper end of the cas when installing it so you know it hasn't jumped a tooth) and stuck it in where it was prior to me tearing it apart... 300 miles on it this week and not a single problem. (other than not enough fuel for the porting)

 

Pull the fuel pump plug apart near the left rear strut tower.

Pull the lower plugs and spin the engine for about fifteen seconds. Put the plugs back in.

Spray starter fluid into the intake snorkel in front of the air filter, for one to two seconds

Get in the car, depress the clutch and start the car. No need to crank for more than ten to fifteen seconds.

Did the car fire at all?? If not do this procedure one more time. Still no varoom from the engine?

No firing means there is no spark. Starter fluid will make the car go varooom for a moment if there is any spark at all.

What mark on that aftermarket pulley did you set your timing to????

Seeing as how you know how to install a cas, do this after the above steps:

1. Pull the cas.

2. Pull the lead coil wires out until they just rest in their bores.

3. Turn the key to the on position(not the start position).

4. Go to the cas and turn the cas's gear rapidly. If your ignition system is for flip, the wires at the coil assy will crackle and spark. Loud snap, crackle and pop.

5. What happen when you did any of the above?

 

i agree with what someone here said before.... new rebuilds take forever to start!! they dont have the compression yet to start.. rotaries build compression with time... every time it turns over or you try to start it it builds compression... it wont idle once you get it started not for a little while... but my car took us a good hour to get started with my rebuild.. my buddies streetport took about the same... until eventually he got it pushed started... same thing with every rebuild since then... give it a push and keep trying to turn it over it will go eventually...

 

I'm gonna push it today. I think it will start, it has to. Theres nothing left to replace. I have the stock pulley, I was talking about the white and green outer marks and the red and orange marks next to the nut on the inside of the pulley, but since you can't see them with the timing light any way...
Question, Will a timing light flash even though the engine isn't running, when I connect the timing light it won't flash? I tried the light on my honda, and 300zx flashes on both.

 

Yup, the timing light should flash just turning it over.. I just went through all this 2 days ago. 88 TII is what i did it on, but I think its all the same.

 

Just for S&G I bought a Matco spark tester (bacically a light that goes between the plug and wire) and it lights up, if you take the plug out and stick it in the wire it arcs when the fuel mist sprays out. I'm gonna push it today and see what happens.

 

Now I'm curious, did it start?

 

I had to go to my uncle's brother's funeral, so I hope to do it this weekend. I hope it starts, it's a long time coming!

 

*Update on status of Zombe's car* He did exactly what you guys said would work... pull start it and guess what!?! it worked! until the cops showed up and the 7 overheated. some lame ******* who lives near us called the police because he was "polluting the enviroment". how gay is that. anywho, thanks everybody for your help!

 

ZombeGTA, It sounds like you already got a ton of possible info for why your car doesn't start, so I won't make any suggestions there, but I'm sure the loud buzzer sound you mentioned is due to the coolant level sensor on top of your radiator. Make sure your radiator is filled the whole way with coolant, if it is then make sure the coolant sensor is connected.

 

I filled it all the way, and it stopped. But it still comes on intermittently now. I'm going to run a new wire to it, it's been repaired before, poorly. When we tow started it it ran for like 30 seconds, then the temp got too high and shut off. But it was smoking like a fiend the whole time we were towing it and the pseudo preachers next door called the poleize on my ***. Aparently they don't like smoking red sportscars being towed past their pseudo church on sundays. Go figure. By the way thats my car in MadMaxine's sig.

 

mine's the 300zx parked next to it

 

Just to follow up: I had a bear of a time getting a new rebuild to start. I ended up pulling all the plugs (trailing too), and cranking the engine with the EGI fuse removed(!) for about a minute to blow out the extra gas.

Warning: keep your work lamp and any spark source away from the left side of the engine while doing this!!
A lot of fuel blasts out the holes sometimes, an accident could be ugly and dangerous!

Cleaned the plugs with brake cleaner and wire brush, and put ~2 tbsp of oil in each leading plug hole to build cranking pressure (I'm leary of ATF in a new motor).

I had to do this about 10-15 times, but eventually it caught and ran. Make sure you have a battery charger handy before you try this!

 

I swapped the plugs, the ones I had in there were brown from the oil injectors coating them. I think if I try your idea it might work. I don't see why I'd need to use the "atf trick" either it hasn't any carbon. I'll keep at it though.

 

O.K. Here I am A YEAR later. Still no start, Ive replaced the fuel system from the gas to the rotor housing. Replaced the electrical system from the batery to the harness. Replaced the engine. WTF!!! The next thing that goes into my car is going to be a 350 V8! After a year of playing with this damn rotary I want my car back!!! If I have to drop a chevy engine into my car in order to drive it then that's whats next.
Any one know of some good info on V8 swaps?
I'm going to use a carb setup if I can.
If you want to flame do it somewhere else, I'm fed up.

 

If your at your wits end, a simple solution would be to bring it to a rotary mechanic... who of course specializes in replacing/rebuilding engines.

 

Since it's not a ford or dodge there aren't any specialists here. There's one Mazda dealer for the whole area. and when I call mechanics they literally laugh at me. I need to move back to San Diego.

 

Ill take the rebuilt rotary of your hands

 

Super sweet!
Actually I'm thinking of puting it on eBay, but if you want to wait til I completely give up and take it out I'll PM you first so you can have the first shot.
What I really need is some advice on engine swaps. I know of one guy with a Grand National motor in a second gen, and multiple people with LT1's and LS1's but I'm going to use a Carburated 350 instead.
If anyone can help PM me.

 

Before you yank the motor back out....

- Pull the main pulley (not the hub it attaches to, just the pulley) with the 4 bolts that attach it to the hub. The holes on the hub are used for aligning the timing marks on the pulley. The drilled dot on the hub is used to align TDC in front rotor.

- line up the dot on the hub (only visible without pulley attached) with the timing mark on the front cover

- Pull CAS and line up the dot to the ridge on the end of the shaft

- insert CAS with careful attention to where the little gear is aligned before and after insertion. (should not move or you're off a tooth) The tension screw should be in the same location it was prior to the rebuild for the initial start-up. (adjust it after the first 150 miles so you get some compression going first)

Keep your foot off the gas when cranking it!

Follow all these and you should have a running car.

 

Oh, the little gear on the CAS I reffered to is the one under the top cover of it used to verify that the crank gear hasn't moved.