New dude, From toyota to rx-7...
b series mazda truck tranny's work great. and yeah S4 turbos are pretty bad *** too, but my friend almost beat a stock on in his gsl se... although that in itsself is a pretty bad *** car.
Originally Posted by Isphius
Thanks for all the helpful replies. Yes, The Mk3s are fat. But its well used fat. The car is very very stiff and stable compared to a lot of cars. It feels awesome and totally safe going 100+ down the highway. And i love the motor because its incredibly strong and can take a lot of power before you even need to change anything. But I do want a rotary. And from what i just read, the 86-88 has a better aftermarket, But the 89+ has a better turbo and isnt as common. I guess the 86-88 motor would be better to run higher boost beacuse of the lower compression. What are the stock compression ratios of the different motors? and are all of these 13bs? That and 20b are pretty much the only names ive ever heard, But i thought the 20b was 3 rotors. I have a lot to learn with rotary engines i guess. I always read about altering ports and stuff. None of this on a piston motor aside from polishing. But i guess the ports are the same as the ports/valves/cam in a piston motor. And arghx, in yoyur long post, When you say 89 is it the same as 89+ everytime you said it or is the 89 specifically different? And from experience from someone, How do these rx7s handle? My supras handle excelent, But im guessing the rx would too because its of similar design and weight balance, and is a bit lighter. And also what is the weight of the various models? I would like the lighter one i guess. Weight is bad!
Yes they are all 13b's all 2nd gen 3rd gen and rx8's have 13b's. All that means though is its a 1.3L. The 20b and 13G are 3 rotors (2.0L and 1.3L). The first gens came with a carbed 12A(1.2L) and the 85 GSLSE came with a Fuel injected 13b. Theres a few other rotary motors around but im not that familar with them.
The ports are where you exhaust leave, your fuel and air mixture get in to the chambers. When you port them you just make them wider so you can get more in. Anything beyond a street port really isnt stable for street use. Its the best way to add more HP to your car especially N/A cars. If you want to get any serious numbers it requires porting.
The 2nd gens weight roughly 2700lbs. A good way to take weight out though is removing the buckets in the back or rearseats (if its a 2+2). Change the hood to a TII aluminium(sp) hood. If you get the 5 lug the covertable rims weigh the less. And taking out your spare. You can also relocate your battery to the back which helps out with the weight distrbution. Stock these cars are 50.2 49.8 (give or take .#) The S5's have the better engine. but the S4's have the better body. They went cheap on making the S5's body and the paint falls off and the intereior is made out of cheaper materials. BUT the s5 has the better engine N/A wise and turbo wise. Although the actual turbo itself form the S4 is better why i dunno.
They handel beutifuly. you cant tell the diffrence in going 40mph or 140mph.
good stuff. Im goan try to find a local one i can test drive or go for a ride in. Anyone here from around NJ that wants to prove to me that rx7s are good cars? haha. I would be interested in the turbo model. I want the car to be as stock appearing as possible, So it needs the full interior. Did they come in 4 or 5 lug? if so is there any strength issues with the 4 lug? And i dont want the one with rear seats lol, so which model is that?
The 2+2 is the rear seat one. There kinda rare though. The TII came with 5 lug. Before you buy one do a compression test on it if the numbers are bad dont get it. Means a rebuild is needed.
Originally Posted by Isphius
Thanks for all the helpful replies. Yes, The Mk3s are fat. But its well used fat. The car is very very stiff and stable compared to a lot of cars. It feels awesome and totally safe going 100+ down the highway. And i love the motor because its incredibly strong and can take a lot of power before you even need to change anything. But I do want a rotary. And from what i just read, the 86-88 has a better aftermarket, But the 89+ has a better turbo and isnt as common. I guess the 86-88 motor would be better to run higher boost beacuse of the lower compression. What are the stock compression ratios of the different motors? and are all of these 13bs? That and 20b are pretty much the only names ive ever heard, But i thought the 20b was 3 rotors. I have a lot to learn with rotary engines i guess. I always read about altering ports and stuff. None of this on a piston motor aside from polishing. But i guess the ports are the same as the ports/valves/cam in a piston motor. And arghx, in yoyur long post, When you say 89 is it the same as 89+ everytime you said it or is the 89 specifically different? And from experience from someone, How do these rx7s handle? My supras handle excelent, But im guessing the rx would too because its of similar design and weight balance, and is a bit lighter. And also what is the weight of the various models? I would like the lighter one i guess. Weight is bad!
Something to think about is the strength of the rotor housings between S4 and S5 models. S5s are considerably stronger, and as such are capable of handling more power than the S4 housings. If you end up building something with lots of power and are stuck with an S4, you should definitely consider upgrading to S5 rotor housings... and I assume if you're looking for big numbers, you're going to rebuild/port the engine.
It's not cheap to make these cars stupid fast and reliable... anyone who tells you otherwise is either flat-out lying or lucky that nothing has broken on their car yet.
When it comes to power with a rotary, there are a few things you need to keep in mind (some have been mentioned):
-cooling: upgraded radiator; a big e-fan is nice, but not necessary; upgraded intercooler (especially if you're upgrading your turbo). These mods, if you buy high quality stuff new, will set you back a good $1500.. depending on whether or not you go FMIC.
-fuel: as soon as you start to add power, you need to add fuel.. and you need to add it intelligently, so you'll need something to regulate it. Your best bet is a standalone engine management system. A good one will cost you a grand or so, along with bigger injectors (say stock primary, 1600cc secondary), a nice FPR, and a better fuel pump, you're looking at another $1500 approximately.
-engine: rebuilding/porting should be a high priority if you're looking for big numbers safely. Generally a rebuilt/ported engine will be a very big investment. If you upgrade to 3mm apex seals and, let's say, get a nice streetport done (assuming all of your internals are good) and upgrade to S5 housings, you're looking at 2-3 grand. It'll be worth it, though.
-turbo: of course big numbers require a big turbo. there are many options as I'm sure you know. accompanying a turbo is a new manifold, new downpipe, etc. if you upgrade your turbo (unless you're going just hybrid), you need to upgrade everything mentioned above.
there are various other things you'll need to consider in the quest for power.. clutch/ pressure plate, suspensions, wheels/tires, boost controller, etc.. it'll add up quickly.
I'm not trying to discourage you, just know that it's not going to be cheap if you want the big numbers. don't go in expecting to spend 5 grand to have a supercar, you'll be very disappointed.
Originally Posted by peachykeenwight
Something to think about is the strength of the rotor housings between S4 and S5 models. S5s are considerably stronger, and as such are capable of handling more power than the S4 housings. If you end up building something with lots of power and are stuck with an S4, you should definitely consider upgrading to S5 rotor housings... and I assume if you're looking for big numbers, you're going to rebuild/port the engine.
just find the right car to start with. I can't emphasize it enough. You're going to have your hands full doing the proper upgrades, and spending time troubleshooting bullshit from a shitty car that's been sitting for years will just sap you of all your motivation to build something awesome.
I plan to leave it essentially stock for a long time, Maybe just a few simple mods, like intake/exhaust/mbc. What can i expect out of that? and then i will builld it up over time. I do plan on buying a nice one that needs little or no work off the bat. And if i cant find one, I will wait or just look in other areas and drive really far to get one. Im just going to try and learn as much as i can before commiting and bringing one home. keep it comin! lol.
bump....Sorry to keep this thread going but its been increibly helpful so far. Im just glad/give you guys props for not ragging on my toyotas...I totally expected to get made fun of... lol.
your not going to find one thats going to have NO work needed right off the bat. Now the work needed may not actully be serious and can go without getting fixed right away. Like a broken hatch(common problem with hydros in the back being broken) or some rust spots or something like that. But these cars are old you have to expect somethign to be broken there always is unless its been restored. Why rag on your toyotas? supras are respectable car. The RX7, 300zx, Supra were competeing against eachother. They were the other companys answer for the competition.
Yes, I was just saying i respect that. On most forums besides toyota, Id probably get made fuin of lol. I love my 2 supras. But i also love RX7s. I had to ride in one to know. And i dont want one that needs no work, Just one that isnt a total restoration project. I want the interior and body and motor to be in good shape. I dont mind doing a little work. And besides, As soon as i get it, Itd get all new fluids/oils, Brakes, Shocks, Filters, And vaccum hoses. Because im **** like that. lol. And of course i would clean and detail the crap out of it.
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