New 90 in garage..... what should I know?
04-16-03, 03:07 PM
#1
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New 90 in garage..... what should I know?
Just bought a 90 n/a blue RX7 for my son. I have been playing with S2000's lately and really have no rotary experience...... what are the first things I need to do and/or look for. What are the mods that are "must do's"?
Thanx in advance for your comments, and check out my "S"project if interested.... Edge's "S"
Thanx in advance for your comments, and check out my "S"project if interested.... Edge's "S"
04-16-03, 03:19 PM
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You're son's got a great car.
Rotary will respond well to an intake and exhaust. If there's no emisions in your area, you can remove the cats and use a presilencer in their place, you'll get a very decent and usable power increase.
For handling go to www.racingbeat.com
Sway bars
Springs
DTSS (passive toe eliminator bushings)
Check vitals (temp and oil pressure) to make sure their within acceptable operating range.
Reliability on the na's are generally very good.
A good tune up would be in order (wires/plugs etc)
Reset all the fluids so you will be starting from a new maintenence schedule.
Tell your son to sign up for this board, there's a bundle of information here he can absorb.
Usually most rotary guard will run 15w40 or 20w40 weight oil. The consensus is to stay away from synthetics, but that's a source of huge debate. Many people run them and swear by them.
Make sure the car is burning oil (it's supposed to) otherwise there is something wrong with your OMP oil metering pump. That's what lubricates the apex seal and is critical to the engine's longevity.
Be aware of any mods the last owner did in case you need to adjust maintenance etc. accordingly.
'89 SE
Rotary will respond well to an intake and exhaust. If there's no emisions in your area, you can remove the cats and use a presilencer in their place, you'll get a very decent and usable power increase.
For handling go to www.racingbeat.com
Sway bars
Springs
DTSS (passive toe eliminator bushings)
Check vitals (temp and oil pressure) to make sure their within acceptable operating range.
Reliability on the na's are generally very good.
A good tune up would be in order (wires/plugs etc)
Reset all the fluids so you will be starting from a new maintenence schedule.
Tell your son to sign up for this board, there's a bundle of information here he can absorb.
Usually most rotary guard will run 15w40 or 20w40 weight oil. The consensus is to stay away from synthetics, but that's a source of huge debate. Many people run them and swear by them.
Make sure the car is burning oil (it's supposed to) otherwise there is something wrong with your OMP oil metering pump. That's what lubricates the apex seal and is critical to the engine's longevity.
Be aware of any mods the last owner did in case you need to adjust maintenance etc. accordingly.
'89 SE
Last edited by Mr. Eccentric; 04-16-03 at 03:21 PM.
04-16-03, 03:19 PM
#3
brap brap
Hiya,
What I was told when I had asked the MRCCFL list about Mods - and what to do first... a few told me this:
From Brandon Matthews:
I'd spend my first $$$ on getting the car up
to "perfect" spec. New plugs, wires, fluids, pads, rubber, etc. Then worry about upgrades.
From Jerry Harding:
As far as your question, it all depends on what your goals are with the car.
If it's a drag car, forget about suspension at first. If it's going to be
an autocrosser, forget about the engine at first.
Since I focus mainly on autocross, here would be my plan of attack:
1 - Wheels/tires - They make a heck of a difference (tires, that is). My
plan is to get a good set of auto-x tires to mount on a spare set of stock
rims. If you're worried about staying in stock class, you cannot change
wheel size. I'm not really worried about staying in stock class, I just
don't really like anything I see out there.
2 - Suspension/Brakes - Uh, they also make a heck of a difference. Sway
bars, bushings, good set of shocks and springs, yadda, yadda. As far as
brakes, not too much to do, besides maybe a better pad and some SS lines.
Don't forget a good fluid flush.
3 - Everything else - engine mods, exhaust, etc, etc.
There's always a few easy things to do engine wise (cone filter). But I'd
stick to that course.
But before you begin any mods, make sure the car is in 100% excellent
running order. Don't spend $1000 on a new suspension if your car needs a
rebuild in a month. So, really the firs thing I would do is spend a good
weekend, making sure all my belts and hoses were good, fresh plugs and
wires, all fluids fresh, and everything else A-OK.
So what I'm really trying to say is - worry about the car being up to spec first before doing anything with the mods....
I hope this helps, I prob. confused you more than anlything... lol
What I was told when I had asked the MRCCFL list about Mods - and what to do first... a few told me this:
From Brandon Matthews:
I'd spend my first $$$ on getting the car up
to "perfect" spec. New plugs, wires, fluids, pads, rubber, etc. Then worry about upgrades.
From Jerry Harding:
As far as your question, it all depends on what your goals are with the car.
If it's a drag car, forget about suspension at first. If it's going to be
an autocrosser, forget about the engine at first.
Since I focus mainly on autocross, here would be my plan of attack:
1 - Wheels/tires - They make a heck of a difference (tires, that is). My
plan is to get a good set of auto-x tires to mount on a spare set of stock
rims. If you're worried about staying in stock class, you cannot change
wheel size. I'm not really worried about staying in stock class, I just
don't really like anything I see out there.
2 - Suspension/Brakes - Uh, they also make a heck of a difference. Sway
bars, bushings, good set of shocks and springs, yadda, yadda. As far as
brakes, not too much to do, besides maybe a better pad and some SS lines.
Don't forget a good fluid flush.
3 - Everything else - engine mods, exhaust, etc, etc.
There's always a few easy things to do engine wise (cone filter). But I'd
stick to that course.
But before you begin any mods, make sure the car is in 100% excellent
running order. Don't spend $1000 on a new suspension if your car needs a
rebuild in a month. So, really the firs thing I would do is spend a good
weekend, making sure all my belts and hoses were good, fresh plugs and
wires, all fluids fresh, and everything else A-OK.
So what I'm really trying to say is - worry about the car being up to spec first before doing anything with the mods....
I hope this helps, I prob. confused you more than anlything... lol
