Allright, I have to have something to do with my car a 89 RX-7 TII when the winter hits again (planning long ahead )
So why not get some more ponies from the car?
I'm not thinking extreme, but 300+ perhaps. Nothing way to complicated though.

Might start with that I'm assembling a fresh built engine, new housings, irons, rotors etc, only the crankshaft is from the old engine basically, oil pump and waterpump is new, changing all hoses, going over the sensors and valves accordingly to the FSM. Might add that I want to send the irons for a street port in the winter as well.

Was thinking about getting Haltech PS1000 with harness, does this replace the entire engine harness or..? And how is it to tune? Only thinking roughly here, hook it up to a laptop and load in a basemap?

Then again, I'll need a fuel pump and injectors, Walbro 255(?), and what size injectors and why? Along with an aftermarket FPR.

Intercooler setup? Vmount seems too extreme, but I've torn out the AC which I thought could make room to place an intercooler where the ac condensor where. Any thoughts on this? IC size and piping issues? Along with cooling issues.

Turbo, it has to breathe properly. Heard good stuff about BNR. But which stage, I was thinking stage 3 or something, any comments, other turbos that might do the trick? Looking for a fast spooling turbo running relatively low boost. 10-14 psi max.
Also, what will the OEM rotor seals take before giving in?

Along comes exhaust, removal of air pump - other stuff that can be thrown away while at it? Possibly boost controller, ignition upgrades? New radiator of course.
Anything I'm missing?

Want it to be as reliable as possible. Know it's a long thread but any answers is appreciated, links, videos, pics etc. Might add that I've been searching alot, but not finding good enough answers for the q's
Thanks!

 

This is a very complicated question as there are an abundance of ways to go about accomplishing your goals.

Firstly, I would recommend that while you have the motor apart you give it a good streetport to attain your HP goals. While you could get 300+ on stock ports, a streetport will only make it easier. If you're building it yourself, you can find porting templates from various engine builders. If you're having someone build it for you, it should only be a few hundred dollars more, and it will be one of the best bang for the buck mods you will do.

The PS1000 is a great standalone ecu and yes it will replace the engine harness. Although you will have to install it by essentially running the new engine harness. This could be a complicated process if you haven't done it before, but if you choose to give it a shot I'm pretty sure you can find links to install guides to help you. This will also be one of the best mods you could perform, as it gives you a great deal of upward mobility to upgrade your setup in the future in your pursuit for more power. An RTEK 2.1 would be the cheapest ECU option, and while it is plug n play, at some point it will no longer be able to support big enough injectors and you will need a full standalone. From my perspective, it is better to do that from the get go.

As far as fuel pump goes, the Walbro is the cheapest and easiest option and is fairly reliable for your desired power. With respect to injectors, 720cc primaries and 1000cc secondaries should do the trick for low 300s. Howard Coleman has a great thread on fuel injector sizing somewhere on the forum, should be easy to find.

V mount is typically to expensive to justify for most cars in my opinion. Yes it does provide superior cooling versus a FMIC, but it requires a lot of time and fabrication to do it correctly. Most people go with a Greddy FMIC kit or a knock off version, if you have the AC condenser out of the way and install a Koyo radiator I think you would be fine cooling wise.

The BNR Stage III would support 350+ and is probably a little big for what it seems you wanted. A Stage II would do fine for 300-350 HP.

Let me add that it is not an issue of how much boost or power the OEM Apex seals will take before they break. Rather, the issue lies in proper tuning and fueling. If you don't have enough fuel, or have a shitty enough tune, you could blow your motor even at low pressures.

Exhaust is up to you, based on cost, appearance, weight, etc. Really any 3" turbo back will do as far as power goes .

You mention removing the air pump. You might as well remove all of the emissions equipment, removes a lot of engine bay clutter, makes the car easier to troubleshoot, and just makes the motor run better in my experience. 2751 Engineering and some other companies offer kits to block off the emissions equipment.

300-350 HP can be attained reliably without much hassle if you invest properly in the beginning and don't try and take short cuts.

I know that was a broad answer, but your question was broad. It would help to know more specific goals as far as HP and streetability goes.

 

Sounds good so far, as far of driving the car, it will mainly be used for road, maybe some track, not much anyhow. How does the Haltech harness work? Is it just plug and play or is there need to make new connectors to the sensors or is all that included? Don't really know how it's delivered.

 

http://www.lms-efi.com/

You can see there what you can buy, there are different options.

 

Thanks again! So I've figured out how to size injectors which is good.

But what I'm finding hard to figure out is how to make the IC setup work. I don't want a front mount (meaning right at the very front bumper opening) since I don't like the sound of cutting my car, not to talk about that it blocks air to both the oil cooler and radiator. So I was thinking about "sandwiching" in front of the radiator, but I don't know how it will be to make piping for it.. Anyone have a writeup, pics or anything on this? This will probably be one of the first things I'll do anyway.

 

Look into the Isuzu NPR intercooler. It is a popular choice for doing what you're describing. The core is of pretty decent size, and it fits very well right in front of the radiator. The end tanks are designed so that when situated in front of the radiator, the inlet/outlet face the engine. This makes for very simple piping to and from the intercooler. Just search around the forum for the NPR intercooler, should turn up a good number of relevant material.