Hi,
I am rebuilding my 88 GXL and need some small parts that have broken or have gone missing.
If you want to work with me I will pay you for your efforts. I am trying to use stock parts if I can find them.
My GXL is black with what they called off-black interior (medium gray).

Please let me know if you are interested in helping me, thanks!

 

There has to be someone in the world with a 1986 to 1988 parts car!

I am willing to pay a reasonable price for your time and effort for these small parts!

 

There are a lot. Try posting in the marketplace or getting more specific with what parts you need there. There's a roller for sale right now in Illinois.

I'm doing a restoration myself and I've been using a combination of Atkins rotary, mazdatrix for new. Riggs vintage Mazda and rotary innovations for used parts on eBay (or direct message on eBay)

And for the really rare parts I used buyee to get parts from Yahoo Japan. Generally everything can be found for the right amount of money.

 

I contacted RVM through eBay, I sent descriptions of the parts I needed along with pictures to them.
They responded with what they had and the price for each part, with a bulk buy lower price.
I used PayPal to make the purchase, it takes up to ten business days to ship!

Here are the parts that I received,

Rigg's parts

Does this look like $420 worth of parts to you?

If you really need the stock parts after searching the web for months, these are the people who will find the specific you need.
It will cost you.

Happy to finally get the parts I needed!

 

There are better ways to do what you're doing for cheaper sure. These parts guys have to make a living too plus the labor of taking them out has to be worth their time. For example that connector in the top left is available new with fresh connectors if you search the forum for S5 wiring harness... I'm not gonna speculate what a fair price is to someone but yes it does get more expensive every year. Post wanted ads on the marketplace for specific things and you'll get plenty of responses im sure.

 

Try mazdatrix and Atkins rotary, a lot of those plastic clips are still available brand new. If you're really serious, the hardest to find stuff can be easily found in Japan if you set up a buyee account and search "fc3s".

Cheapest way for sure is to just buy a donor car depending on how many things you need, it adds up fast when you buy individual things.

 

hey! I don't check rx7club alot but depending on what you need I may be able to help. I have two spare gxl interiors (blue and maroon) and a full drivetrain worth of parts, plus a random gray rear carpet lol. lemme know.

 

I tried the marketplace once and lost $50, leery to try again. I did get a new connector, it fit but it did not match the originals. Would not look too good, now they all match!

At this point it is all about the car looking as original as possible.

I have another order with Rigg's being put together, it will be expensive but easier to get these parts.

Thanks everyone for the input, now I can move forward getting my car running.

My concession to modding!

Other rx-7 drivers ask me to pop the hood. This with a nice header will do the trick!

 

That powder coating doesn't look very original/stock 😂
But it does look great!

 

Did you see the caption underneath the first picture? Anyway, certain parts like the exhaust system are replaced with aftermarket parts.
So, this is not a 100% stock build.

When I replaced the engine last time I had the manifolds just sandblasted, never clear coated them so now they were severely stained and look like crap.
I did not know that you must coat them after blasting! I had them sandblasted again and they did not get into all the nooks and crannies, also it brought out the casting mold seams and all the other defects. Some filing and sanding removed most of them but the re-worked areas came out shiny compared to the sandblasted areas.

Would clearcoat even out the overall look? In celebration of my seventieth birthday I decided to powder coat the manifold. Installed the block-off plates and sent them out.

I am also installing a rear wing that I always wanted from day one, never liked the stock one.

The interior I am trying to keep stock, but running into color marching issues. This is for another day!

Now my concern is to only use the stock bolts that have the number 6 on the bolthead on all the visible bolts in the engine bay. Anything else does not look right. You need to know that I bought this 88 GXL new off of the showroom floor and I had the pleasure to see it as it came from the factory in Japan.

The throttle body was done in blue to match the filler neck cap!

Looking at this picture it appears that I must remove those ugly lifting points! Those waterpump boltheads need a touchup also.

I discovered that it is important to respect the original designer's intent, and not make it look like clown barf!

If something is worth doing, do it to the best of your ability. I have been waiting for the opportunity to work on my car for 18 years now.

I am very pleased with how things are finally going. Looking forward to when I push the clutch in and shift into first!

 

It looks very clean and nice. Enjoy the build! So cool you got to see it on the factory line!

 

Hi everyone
I tried sourcing a #2 secondary throttle diaphragm from US sources, they are refunding my payment because the part is no longer available!
I really want a new diaphragm, how do I go about finding a source from Japan? "set up a buyee account and search "fc3s", what is a buyee account and how do I set it up?

 

What parts are you still looking for? I parted out an 88 SE quite some time ago but I have a lot left and a lot of miscellaneous FC parts in bins.

 

Thanks for the reply,
I need the diaphragm that controls the #2 secondary throttle plates. It closes the plates when the coolant temperature is below 140 degrees F.
To do this the diaphragm needs to hold vacuum!


Proper way to test the diaphragm

I am interested in one that passes this test! I do not think it has to be installed onto the throttle body to hold vacuum.

All the ones I have leak the vacuum away, the lever will move inwards and stay in if it is holding vacuum.

 

I can check and see aht I have this week and get back to you.

 

Thank you for your efforts!

I tried the results from a Google search for this part, They say they can get it, I order it, it comes back NLA!
I found a German source, he does not ship to the US!
I do not know how to search with Buyee.

 

This is about the last part I need to complete my throttle body restore.

Here are some pictures of a diaphragm that I took apart.


Spring height



Interior parts



membrane



Failure area

After looking closely at the membrane rupture area, I have come to the conclusion that the cut end of the spring is the cause.

The rest of the membrane appeared intact; the ruptured area is vertical with random cracks below it.

The only thing that moves in a vertical motion is the spring.

My spring had one end snipped off with a sheared top about 1/32" long.

When I rubbed my finger across both ends of the spring the one with the sheared top was much rougher than the other end.

So, my reasoning is that the sharp spring end contacts the thin rubber membrane and over the years cuts through it.

OK, what can we do to fix this problem?


First, find a kinder way to open the crimped edge so that we can reclose it after repairs to the membrane.

For now I had a thunk, what if you coat both sides of the rubber membrane with water thin superglue?

I want to try this by squirting the glue through the hole and arm areas on one side, and through the vacuum port on the other.

After waiting overnight, I would see if it held vacuum! If not, I would apply another application of superglue.

What do you think?

 

This is what I did to get this system working.


EGR diaphragm from a Jetta

When I tested its function, it takes 25% more vacuum to fully close the valves.

So, I might experience some slight hesitation when the secondaries are opened while the engine coolant is below 140 degrees.

This is acceptable while using the car as my daily driver, also during the New England winters.