Need some help with idle issue
Need some help with idle issue
Hey guys, I tried searching around but every other idle issue seems a little different than mine and Im not sure where else to go from here, so please bear with me if this has been answered before.
I have a 88 Turbo. A few weeks ago I was driving the car and in the middle of driving it suddenly lost power. The best way I can describe the idle now is like a Harley, very rough. The car has no power, idles high (between 1400-2000 RPM), idles rough, does not want to rev more than 3k, and when taking off from a start it acts like it wants to die and has no power at all from a stop, but it will get moving and limp/drive around.
Unfortunately I don't have access to a compression tester for a rotary engine. I tried pulling the injector fuse to listen to the spark pulses while cranking and they are noticeably different than before. Started pulling plug wires wondering if spark was weak possibly. On 3 of the 4 plug wires, pulling them off or swapping them around makes no noticeable difference in the idle whatsoever. One plug wire though causes the idle to dip very low, to the point that it barely idles and shakes hard, and the idle is much more rough than it already was. All of the terminals on the coil packs are sparking, but that one makes a huge difference in idle while the others seem to do very little or nothing.
Tried unplugging the vacuum check valve thing (the valve next to the brake booster), and saw no noticeable difference between it being plugged into the valve, and it being unhooked and plugged with a finger.
Im the only person in my area that is into rotaries and the nearest shop is hours away, so Im kind of at the end of my rope on this, so Id really appreciate anything you all can offer. Once again, Im sorry if its already been answered, but I searched what I could think of and nothing seemed quite the same.
I took a video of the issue, so here it is.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/xJJZ0t-jgGk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I have a 88 Turbo. A few weeks ago I was driving the car and in the middle of driving it suddenly lost power. The best way I can describe the idle now is like a Harley, very rough. The car has no power, idles high (between 1400-2000 RPM), idles rough, does not want to rev more than 3k, and when taking off from a start it acts like it wants to die and has no power at all from a stop, but it will get moving and limp/drive around.
Unfortunately I don't have access to a compression tester for a rotary engine. I tried pulling the injector fuse to listen to the spark pulses while cranking and they are noticeably different than before. Started pulling plug wires wondering if spark was weak possibly. On 3 of the 4 plug wires, pulling them off or swapping them around makes no noticeable difference in the idle whatsoever. One plug wire though causes the idle to dip very low, to the point that it barely idles and shakes hard, and the idle is much more rough than it already was. All of the terminals on the coil packs are sparking, but that one makes a huge difference in idle while the others seem to do very little or nothing.
Tried unplugging the vacuum check valve thing (the valve next to the brake booster), and saw no noticeable difference between it being plugged into the valve, and it being unhooked and plugged with a finger.
Im the only person in my area that is into rotaries and the nearest shop is hours away, so Im kind of at the end of my rope on this, so Id really appreciate anything you all can offer. Once again, Im sorry if its already been answered, but I searched what I could think of and nothing seemed quite the same.
I took a video of the issue, so here it is.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/xJJZ0t-jgGk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,614
Likes: 31
From: Freeland, MI
Video link didn't post right
But from what your describing, your first test NEEDS to be a compression check. You DO NOT need a special "rotary" compression tester, you can use a regular piston style to give you a good idea on health of the engine, but from what your describing, you lost a rotor
But from what your describing, your first test NEEDS to be a compression check. You DO NOT need a special "rotary" compression tester, you can use a regular piston style to give you a good idea on health of the engine, but from what your describing, you lost a rotor
^ Yes. Hold the release button (or remove the valve) on the compression tester and watch for even bounces as you crank. But before that, make sure the throttle is held open, disable fuel and spark by removing the two EGI fuses underhood, and leave the other spark plug threaded on the same rotor you're testing.
Update us later.
edit: video the tester bounces for better feedback from us. GL.
Update us later.
edit: video the tester bounces for better feedback from us. GL.
Yeah I can do compression checks, I was just under the impression that I needed a special adapter for the rotary. Ill check that tomorrow then when I have access the the compression checker again. Thank you guys, Ill keep you updated.
Heres a direct link to the video since it didn't embed correctly.
Heres a direct link to the video since it didn't embed correctly.
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,614
Likes: 31
From: Freeland, MI
A rotary is no different than any other engine, it runs on the same 4 stroke theory as piston engines, except in a circular kind of way.
My best description of the rotary is its a 4 stroke, but yet a 2 stroke being as it has ports and oil injected into the engine, i confuse alot of people until i explain it lol
My best description of the rotary is its a 4 stroke, but yet a 2 stroke being as it has ports and oil injected into the engine, i confuse alot of people until i explain it lol
Yeah, I know how they work and all, I just assumed I needed a different adapter due to it having 2 plugs per housing (yeah I know some piston engines have twin spark cylinders as well). Was just mistaken thinking on my part. Ill check it tomorrow. Thanks again guys
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Yes, the bottom plugs do most of the work. Those are called leading plugs.
The top ones are called trailing, and help burn off the rest of the mixture (and to help emissions).
edit: fixed words
The top ones are called trailing, and help burn off the rest of the mixture (and to help emissions).
edit: fixed words
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