icudibe4me

i have a 1991 rx7 na
problems i am having

1. im having an overheating issue (i have a new rad all new hoses new waterpump new thermostat) what its doing is back flowing into the overflow tank and pissing out the overflow. i flushed the block and rad and it all flowed nicely

2. the fuel pump isnt kicking on. it ran fine never any problems and i was driving came home went to start it few hours later and i couldnt hear the fuel pump kicking on just cranks over

i was trying to find the fuse for the fuel pump but i cant seem to find it and i did some digging on google and it hasnt helped out any

would anyone be able to led some helping advice to aid me in this porblem
thanks a bunch

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

1) Test / replace the radiator cap
2) It won't come on until the AFM opens a little. There's a yellow 2-pin connector near the AFM that you can jumper to force the fuel pump on if you suspect it's the issue.

icudibe4me

1. i have replaced the cap still didnt solve the issue

2. forgive me but what is the afm and where is it located

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/

AFM = Air Flow Meter

It's underneath the air filter on a stock intake, passenger's side.

If you've already replaced the radiator cap, I'd do a champagne bubble test to see if your coolant seals are shot. Remove the cap on the filler neck on the engine with the engine cold. Start the engine and look for bubbles (looks like champagne). If it starts bubbling within a couple minutes, you need to rebuild your engine. If a few minutes pass and nothing yet, shut it off and crack a beer because your engine is still good.

icudibe4me

1. ok so when i get to the 2 pin yellow connector what is the correct way to jump it to kick the fuel pump on

2. i will preform the test tomorrow as long as it isn't pouring rain (sad no garage)

thanks for the quick response and help love this car but its making my head split

satch

iTrader: (1)

Engine fuse powers the pump.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Jumpering the connector is exactly as it sounds. You run a jumper wire from pin to pin.

icudibe4me

ok sounds easy enough

no bubbles are coming from the rad didnt try jumping the pins yet was unsure about it will do it tomorrow morning

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Wait... I'm confused now. Does your car run now?

icudibe4me

it ran just fine and when i parked it i went to go an hour or so later and she wouldnt start i cant hear the fuel pump priming up when i turn the key on always have been able too it cranks fine and she tries her hardest to start but she wont

the cooling issue im having is recent i have replaced the entire cooling system in it and for some reason its back flowing into the overfill tanks and running out of the rubber hose idk why cooling issue has never prevented the car from running i have never let her overheat

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

The engine has to run for the champagne bubble test. What you're looking for is the combustion gasses in the coolant system.

I'll bet your engine is either flooded (easy fix) or just toast from continuous overheating. Bear in mind, 1/4 on the S4 coolant gauge is normal operating temp. 1/2 is too hot, 3/4 is pretty much "you're screwed", and I don't think the engine will even run in the full hot zone. No engine (and it doesn't matter rotary, piston, whatever) likes to be run hot. There is no "overheating is worse on a rotary", like everyone likes to say. It's a myth. Overheat any engine enough, you've sent it to its grave.

Try this: Get a bottle of oil with a nozzle on it. Pop off a vacuum port on the intake manifold. Attach a hose between the nozzle and the vacuum port. Squeeze some oil in the intake. Pull the EGI fuse (under the hood, by the driver's strut tower). Crank the car for about 10 seconds. Replace the fuse. Start the car. If it starts, it will smoke... badly. You should also pop the radiator cap off and watch for bubbles at this time while the engine is running but still cold.

icudibe4me

ok i will try that

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

I just saw that yours is S5. Even worse. That's the one that has the useless temp gauge. It has a capacitive effect around mid range, so actual changes in coolant temp are harder for the gauge to indicate once it actually heats up. If it overheats, you're already in a bad situation by the time the temp gauge reads too hot.

icudibe4me

so i jumped the pins and nothing happened so fuel pump must be bad


when the temp gauge started to rise from its normal mid range i shut the car down to prevent it

something i remembered when it was running i took the rad cap off and watched it but i just pumps out of it so i wouldnt be able to see the bubbles

satch

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked the Engine fuse yet? At the Circuit Opening Relay, the top row center wire (Black/White) should have voltage w/key to on and if it doesn't the the fuse is no good.

icudibe4me

i have heard people say that but i cant seem to find the fuse box some say its on the drive in the engine and such and also there are 3 of them so i am waiting to get a manual to try to locate it

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fuse box by the driver's kick panel houses the 15 amp Engine fuse. Just check the relay previously stated. It is Yellow and Black and has but five wires and is located to the right of the steering column and just under the dash.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Circuit Opening Relay:

icudibe4me

everything looks to be ok there sorry it took so long to respond back with the holidays and all the in laws and back woods family over havent had a chance to get back to you guys