midnightride42

1987 N/A automatic

first off, i installed the copper fitting into the rubber hose from the air pump to get enough pressure to opent he ports. i tried taking the hose off but no luck, i was to affraid to break the hose. so i drilled a small hole. tried putting the fitting in there. i drilled the hole a little small on purpose to make sure it was snug in there well when i was pushing it , it started to greak . now i have the fitting in there and its somewhat split right by the holse, can i use high temp gasket maker to seal the around the fitting. i was thinking it prob wont even be that bad leaving it like it is sence it just air going through right?

second question, i have a 2.5 exhaust with one pre cat left and a V8 hight flow cat, and have a cone filter. my question is, after putting the cone filter in or even the exhaust, should i have unplugged the battery for a few min to restart the cars computer? i have heard when doing mods like intakes and filters etc, one should restart the computer cause the car is set to old settings and is use to it but ones you reset the cpu, and you put your parts on and then drive it it gets used to the new parts. any info would be helpfull.

also has anyone ever broken the tensionar bolt that hold the pulley and in the back get s taht long screw down into it for powersteering? how much was it to replace and where would be a good place to get it. i know im prob limitedto the mazda dealer or junk jard.

thanks

midnightride42

well i just got of the phone with a few mazda dealer for the broken tensioner bolt for powersteering, they want like 22 bucks , plus 3 days shipping. my next question is , from what other rx7 models can i use the bolt from are they all the same which i doubt but pleaselet me know cause ill be needing to pick one up today.again its just the bolt that hold the pulley in place.

should i just go purchase a bolt in simialar size and use it? and just juse a bar to create then tension? let me know thanks

poor_red_neck

Can't help you with the hose... never used gasket maker or anything.
As far as the ECU goes... you don't have to reset it. Everything on there is fixed, and IF it had any error codes, they get cleared when the car shuts down. You're good there.

-redneck

midnightride42

any ideas on the pulley issue? i guess i ll have to use a normal bolt and just use a pry bar and create the tension and go from there ?

SureShot

About the P/S & A/C idler pulley bolts: all 2nd gens use the same size, but for some unknown reason the hex heads are sometimes different.
They are interchangable.
I picked up a spare the last time a was at a salvage yard.

midnightride42

looks like ill have to use a regualr bolt the same size and create tension and then bolt it up tight cause i cant seem to find anyone locally with rx7 in a salvadge yard. plus i work during the day and cant get there before 6 so thats a big prob. anyone know , can i use justa bolt by itself? should hold in place right?

my other option was use a regualr bolt, then use the back of the broken bolt and weld it to a bracket. drill a hol the size of the new bolt and put the new bolt throug the hole fasten it down and then use the tension botl part that i just welded on the bracket just like before. what should i do?
any help would be greatly appreciated.

i can order the part but i need the car running tonight. could i jsut use a normal bolt till next week?

please let me know

HAILERS

RTV around the split in the air hose will work just fine.

Unplugging the battery to reset the computer is BOGUS. Don't waste your time. There is nothing to be gained or lost doing that.

I know nothing about power steering.

midnightride42

anyone else have a opinion

SureShot

Without the right pulley bolt, you risk the belt working loose & causing other problems.
For emergency use, remove the belt & strong arm the steering while you scrounge up the bolt.

The air pump hose leak is no biggie.
Maybe tape and/or zip tie it to keep it from splitting more.

midnightride42

well what im going to do is get the same size bolt and use it the only thing that wont be the same is the back of it wont have the long screw in it so that i can be adjusted. im confident that will hold in place. like i said i can always weld the back piece that broke on to a bracket and then slide that in place inbetween the new bolt and the metal thats there .


anyone else have any ideas.

in most vehicles the pulley that is movable is only held in place by a bolt so i should be fine as long as i tighen it enough and have enough tention in the belt.

chic7

if you ask for help and people are telling there thoughts, probably with more knoweledge than yourself, take it or just don't post!!!!!! sure shot always has good ideas from experience, so don't take it with a grain of salt! strong arm until new bolt arrives,only 3 days, and it could cause more damage half a#$ than to fix it right first time plus your car will tell you with one or another part breaking that she doesn't appreciate it

midnightride42

in no way was i disagreeing with him i know there are very many folks on here that know more than me in fact i know very little about our cars.

here is what i did. i looked at the broken bolt and saw that i need a same set up sence the bolt is big at one part it fits inside the pulley where a small bearing is that keeps the pulley spinning with the belt. so her is what i did, i was able to take out the broken part of the bolt from the nut end that you tighten down. went to NAPA, they carry metric bolts. they had one the exact size i needed. even got it for free. so now it s back to the same way it was before exept i can adjust the bolt by turning the big long screw in the back.

so it is fixed. i may still go head though an order the origianl part just to keep it original.


as for the port opening, i put the car in neutral and reved it up to 3500- 4 and ports opened about half way i closed ver y quickly but didnt open very fast and at the right time. i need to adjust it i guess play around with it for a bit one day. but atleas they are opening now using the air pump method.

SureShot

My favorite way to test the aux ports:
Tee in a length of vac hose at the aux port actuator.
Tee a pressure or boost gauge into that hose.
Blow into the hose & observe at what pressure they open.
(Or use the pressure side of a MityVac hand pump.)
Route the hose inside the car & put the gauge on the end.
Go for a drive & observe where you get to that pressure.

Now you have a guess proof way to adjust your modified setup.