Need a little help from the Rear-Suspension Guru's
Need a little help from the Rear-Suspension Guru's
A few weeks ago, I dropped my rear subframe and began disassembling the suspension components...
But like a dumbass, I didnt mark the original position of the cam plates before I loosened the bolt that connects the subframe to the trailing arm.
I've highlighted the marking lines in red in the picture below.
Can somebody give me an idea of the initial positioning (before fine tuning)?
I just want to be able to drive it somewhere for a decent alignment once everything is bolted back up.

The FSM shows the procedure for adjustment for alignment and toe. But as for the general postion of the markings, it doesnt say anything about where to start from. Long center mark in the 6-o'clock position, maybe? I have no idea. what do you guys think?
But like a dumbass, I didnt mark the original position of the cam plates before I loosened the bolt that connects the subframe to the trailing arm.
I've highlighted the marking lines in red in the picture below.
Can somebody give me an idea of the initial positioning (before fine tuning)?
I just want to be able to drive it somewhere for a decent alignment once everything is bolted back up.

The FSM shows the procedure for adjustment for alignment and toe. But as for the general postion of the markings, it doesnt say anything about where to start from. Long center mark in the 6-o'clock position, maybe? I have no idea. what do you guys think?
The fsm pretty much shows how to do it. Its pretty self explanatory once u put everything together. Just loosen the nut and spin the eccentric bolt. But ur going to need to get a professional alignment unless you have an ikeya alignment tool.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
set it in the middle. there is a little notch on the subframe that you line the eccentric up too
if you wanna get ambitious, you can set the toe with toe plates (google it) or the string method.
the thing that is hard to set without the alignment machine, is the thrust angle, the rear wheels need to be set to the right toe angle, but also pointed straight
if you wanna get ambitious, you can set the toe with toe plates (google it) or the string method.
the thing that is hard to set without the alignment machine, is the thrust angle, the rear wheels need to be set to the right toe angle, but also pointed straight
set it in the middle. there is a little notch on the subframe that you line the eccentric up too
if you wanna get ambitious, you can set the toe with toe plates (google it) or the string method.
the thing that is hard to set without the alignment machine, is the thrust angle, the rear wheels need to be set to the right toe angle, but also pointed straight
if you wanna get ambitious, you can set the toe with toe plates (google it) or the string method.
the thing that is hard to set without the alignment machine, is the thrust angle, the rear wheels need to be set to the right toe angle, but also pointed straight
I'll set it in the middle/6:00 position, and then from there I'll just have a proper alignment done.
That's the answer i needed. Thanks for confirming this.
-Justen
or if you're really concerned you can use a tape measure to measure the distance from the outside tread from both rear tires at the front and rear of each of the tires. less distance in front is how typical toe in will be set, about 1/4" in at the front of the tires versus the rear.
basically drag the tape measure from one side of the car to the other, using the tread on the tire as a marking point at the front and rear to gauge how much toe in or out there is.
this is a crude method though and can lead to side tracking, in the front it simply shows up as an offcenter steering wheel which can easily be corrected by adjusting the front tie rods equally until the wheel is centered. to set the rear toe properly requires an alignment machine. even with an alignment machine it is very difficult to always get the toe 100% perfect, i had many many cars that i had to manually readjust the steering wheel on, even a butthair off and the steering wheel would wind up crooked.
proper alignment is a true artform. the car will try to work against you depending on how it is set on the suspension and will adjust each time it rolls on the wheels.
basically drag the tape measure from one side of the car to the other, using the tread on the tire as a marking point at the front and rear to gauge how much toe in or out there is.
this is a crude method though and can lead to side tracking, in the front it simply shows up as an offcenter steering wheel which can easily be corrected by adjusting the front tie rods equally until the wheel is centered. to set the rear toe properly requires an alignment machine. even with an alignment machine it is very difficult to always get the toe 100% perfect, i had many many cars that i had to manually readjust the steering wheel on, even a butthair off and the steering wheel would wind up crooked.
proper alignment is a true artform. the car will try to work against you depending on how it is set on the suspension and will adjust each time it rolls on the wheels.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Mar 24, 2011 at 01:34 PM.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
BTW i like zero toe in the front and maybe 1/8" toe in in the rear, this is what feels best to me on the street.
on the street it seems like this, more rear toe = more stable. the front being closer to 0 toe steering feel got better.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DaleClark
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
23
Oct 18, 2002 03:30 PM







