Need info about my jacked up clutch
11-11-02, 12:54 PM
#1
Need info about my jacked up clutch
well its clutch time! i go to take my clutch off and i notice that the pressure plate has a big ring about 2mm deep around the fingers where the TO bearing has rode it, the fingers are red in some areas so thats a bad sign...
the disc has some life left on it but has grooves on both sides about an inch wide around the outter edge of the disc (like how a brake rotor gets grooves)
the flywheel is just gone it has the same grooves only alittle bigger, an inch wide and only on the outer edge????
Please help as to why or how this happened!!!!! This clutch WAS a stage 2 clutchmasters with only 5k miles on it if that so its bothering me why this has happened
-Any info appreciated -Gabe
the disc has some life left on it but has grooves on both sides about an inch wide around the outter edge of the disc (like how a brake rotor gets grooves)
the flywheel is just gone it has the same grooves only alittle bigger, an inch wide and only on the outer edge????
Please help as to why or how this happened!!!!! This clutch WAS a stage 2 clutchmasters with only 5k miles on it if that so its bothering me why this has happened
-Any info appreciated -Gabe
11-12-02, 12:48 AM
#6
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Your best bet is to find a good, used flywheel, buy an entire new clutch kit(act is highly recommended) and install it all at one time. Sorta sounds like to me, my previous theory of the hydraulic adjustment having preloaded the throwout bearing, might have been true...it was loaded most of the time, dug into the PP, and also allowed the clutch to slip alot of the time and wear itself and the flywheel flat out. Put in all new parts (and a GOOD used flywheel), keep everything CLEAN, LUBRICATE it all well where needed and it will work like new. THis should cost less than $400. In fact I have some good flywheels Ill sell you cheap.
11-12-02, 08:50 AM
#7
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Originally posted by hypntyz7
the hydraulic adjustment having preloaded the throwout bearing, might have been true...it was loaded most of the time, dug into the PP, and also allowed the clutch to slip alot of the time and wear itself and the flywheel flat out.
the hydraulic adjustment having preloaded the throwout bearing, might have been true...it was loaded most of the time, dug into the PP, and also allowed the clutch to slip alot of the time and wear itself and the flywheel flat out.
How do you test to see if the hydraulics are in spec? In my Haynes manual it gives some imposible method of measuring the distance to the floor. But that distance changes alot depending on what angle you measure at. My clutch works just fine; I'm just curious.
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11-12-02, 12:03 PM
#8
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Honestly I have never yet done any measuring. I can pretty much tell by feel where the pedal action should ovvur...initla grab and full let-out. You want the action to take place in the middle of the pedal stroke, not at the bottom, or top.
IT's common for people to wear clutches out to almost nothing, and adjust the pedal when they do...you can sap the last bit of use out of a worn clutch by adjusting the pedal so it works later, by backing the adjusting rod OUT of the MC, you make the action occur later in teh stroke, moving the engagement points downward some, and on an old clutch this gives you a bit more comfort and use.
OK, so what happens if it is adjusted too far in? Some people begin to encounter hydraulic leakage/seal failure problems and simply adjust the pedal rather than finding the real problem...adjusting the pedal to work sooner and harder(moving the rod IN to the MC) will sometimes get them around a stiff shifter caused by binding hydraulics. Then you run into the problem that you can adjust the rod in far enough where it preloads the throwout bearing. THis means that it is pushing a little bit all the time, forcing the TOB into the PP, making it work under load all the time, which will quickly wear out both parts, as theyre only meant to be in contact for a second or so each shift and not constantly.
IF you're in doubt or want to learn the easiest thing for you is to just get under there and move it around some...it is a 10mm and 12mm set of nuts and takes about 10 seconds to actually adjust. GO for a drive and see/feel how it has affected you. Just dont adjust it IN to the point when you feel it get a bit harder to turn, cause now you're preloading the TOB.
IT's common for people to wear clutches out to almost nothing, and adjust the pedal when they do...you can sap the last bit of use out of a worn clutch by adjusting the pedal so it works later, by backing the adjusting rod OUT of the MC, you make the action occur later in teh stroke, moving the engagement points downward some, and on an old clutch this gives you a bit more comfort and use.
OK, so what happens if it is adjusted too far in? Some people begin to encounter hydraulic leakage/seal failure problems and simply adjust the pedal rather than finding the real problem...adjusting the pedal to work sooner and harder(moving the rod IN to the MC) will sometimes get them around a stiff shifter caused by binding hydraulics. Then you run into the problem that you can adjust the rod in far enough where it preloads the throwout bearing. THis means that it is pushing a little bit all the time, forcing the TOB into the PP, making it work under load all the time, which will quickly wear out both parts, as theyre only meant to be in contact for a second or so each shift and not constantly.
IF you're in doubt or want to learn the easiest thing for you is to just get under there and move it around some...it is a 10mm and 12mm set of nuts and takes about 10 seconds to actually adjust. GO for a drive and see/feel how it has affected you. Just dont adjust it IN to the point when you feel it get a bit harder to turn, cause now you're preloading the TOB.
11-12-02, 12:15 PM
#10
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
IF it is preloaded, it will be stiff, because it's working all the time. THere should be a point when you first touch the pedal that it freeplays for a couple or 3 inches, then does all the work. IF you touch it and it immediately disengages, that tells you that some of the work has already been done, the pressure plate isnt clamping fully, cause the TOB is already pushing it open. You may be right, it might not be, but the symptoms you describe of everything being eaten up either mean a bad TOB(worn out, not turning well) or a preloaded one. How else do you explain the ring in the PP adn burned fingers? Im not saying I AM right, but it just sounds like something is out of whack here, either adjustment wise or parts wise. Get new parts and try to make sure teh adjustment is closer this time, and youll be fine. Clutches are really simple devices...
11-12-02, 12:31 PM
#11
Yeah the way i described my parts were alittle on the worry wart side i took it to a machine shop where my friend told me that my PP was just fine and that even though it was red that it was just fine so i was like ok guy if you say so??? MY TOB was fine but i did replace it...so oh well my starter is acting up so i have yet to see what this new clutch will do...
11-12-02, 12:32 PM
#12
Yeah the way i described my parts were alittle on the worry wart side i took it to a machine shop where my friend told me that my PP was just fine and that even though it was red that it was just fine so i was like ok guy if you say so??? I got a different flywheel that was almost good as new and has no burn marks where the clutch was dropped and my TOB was fine but i did replace it...so oh well my starter is acting up... i have yet to see what this new clutch will do...
11-12-02, 12:38 PM
#13
Yeah the way i described my parts were alittle on the worry wart side
i took it to a machine shop where my friend told me that my PP was just fine and that even though the fingers had a grove that it was normal and the grove was just more of a line showing where the the tob did its job
the red area wasnt that bad either he said it was attributed to my dragging
detiruchs centerforce clutch is totally red on the fingers im not exagerating that one.....
So i said ok if you say so...
I got a different flywheel that was almost good as new and has no burn marks from spirited driving and my TOB was fine but i did replace it...
my starter is acting up so i have yet to see what this new clutch will do...
i took it to a machine shop where my friend told me that my PP was just fine and that even though the fingers had a grove that it was normal and the grove was just more of a line showing where the the tob did its job
the red area wasnt that bad either he said it was attributed to my dragging
detiruchs centerforce clutch is totally red on the fingers im not exagerating that one.....
So i said ok if you say so...
I got a different flywheel that was almost good as new and has no burn marks from spirited driving and my TOB was fine but i did replace it...
my starter is acting up so i have yet to see what this new clutch will do...
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