Need help smogging 1987 RX7
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Newbie
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Southern California
Need help smogging 1987 RX7
I'm having trouble getting my 87' automatic RX7 past smog here in California. I've replaced the Cat, oxygen sensor, spark plugs & wires, oil. I even tried to retart the timing to reduce emissions.
Now it passes everything but HC's (hydrocarbons are too high). I think that indicates a "overrich" condition. What else should I check or change to fix this? Any help appreciated.
Now it passes everything but HC's (hydrocarbons are too high). I think that indicates a "overrich" condition. What else should I check or change to fix this? Any help appreciated.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 659
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From: Delaware
Buy some of the **** from pep boys (alcohol type stuff) that you pour in the gas tank to improve emissions. It works great for me 
. Also try changing the air filter, doing that let me pass once haha. But im in delaware so its prolly different but my benz failed HCs too and I changed plugs, air filter, and poured alcohol cheating **** down the tank and it worked! Good luck man and welcome to the boards!
. Also try changing the air filter, doing that let me pass once haha. But im in delaware so its prolly different but my benz failed HCs too and I changed plugs, air filter, and poured alcohol cheating **** down the tank and it worked! Good luck man and welcome to the boards!
Zoom Zoom Boom!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,312
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From: San Francisco, CA
Check out www.1300cc.com for electric air pump from a Corvette if you don't mind a little more work. If you do alcohol, don't push the car at all and be careful.
Full Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 56
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From: Los Angeles, CA
If someone could tell me who would pass me in smogg without my cats in California... that would help a lot... Justbeatz03@aol.com
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
If you have a new cat you should have passed.
It could be the variable resistor is set toooo much towards the Rich condition.
Or it could be the ACV is not working as it should because several reasons, most of which can be fixed easily.
The timing should be set to spot on. The tps should be adujusted to show one volt at the ECU when adjusted.
Whem fully warmed up the large hose at the bottom of the acv SHOULD NOT be dumping any air....well on a used one maybe a whisp...but not dumping air.
Both small vac lines above the acv should be pulling a vacuum on the acv at fully warmed up idle. Check that out first. FULLY WARMED UP CAR FIRST.
The acv feeds fresh air to the exaust ports AT the exaust ports at idle. Thats why you NEED to make sure the air is not being dumped out the large bottom hose on the bottom of the acv.
The variable resistor is located near the boost/pressure sensor. Sort of oval in shape with a screw in the middle and a L and a R embossed on the right and left of the screw. You figure what R and L stand for. Don't go so L that the car won't idle.
Before doing anything you need to set your idle with the initial set coupler installed and the timing set. The timing should be set with the idle well below 900 rpm preferably at 750 rpm.
The tps should be set to one volt AT the ECU with a FULLY WARMED UP ENGINE.
It could be the variable resistor is set toooo much towards the Rich condition.
Or it could be the ACV is not working as it should because several reasons, most of which can be fixed easily.
The timing should be set to spot on. The tps should be adujusted to show one volt at the ECU when adjusted.
Whem fully warmed up the large hose at the bottom of the acv SHOULD NOT be dumping any air....well on a used one maybe a whisp...but not dumping air.
Both small vac lines above the acv should be pulling a vacuum on the acv at fully warmed up idle. Check that out first. FULLY WARMED UP CAR FIRST.
The acv feeds fresh air to the exaust ports AT the exaust ports at idle. Thats why you NEED to make sure the air is not being dumped out the large bottom hose on the bottom of the acv.
The variable resistor is located near the boost/pressure sensor. Sort of oval in shape with a screw in the middle and a L and a R embossed on the right and left of the screw. You figure what R and L stand for. Don't go so L that the car won't idle.
Before doing anything you need to set your idle with the initial set coupler installed and the timing set. The timing should be set with the idle well below 900 rpm preferably at 750 rpm.
The tps should be set to one volt AT the ECU with a FULLY WARMED UP ENGINE.
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