7romanstatesmen

iTrader: (1)

Hey all-

I've done a fair amount of research so far, but I'd like some input- what do you think this is worth?

1987 GXL 2+2, 192k (1600mi on professionally built/ported motor)

Details are:

Engine/Related:
• Ported, blueprinted and assembled by a local, professional rotary mechanic
• Mild-to-moderate street ported s5 irons
• S4 rotor housings deemed by builder to be “in great shape”
• S5 N/A rotors
• 5/6 port sleeves removed (despite this, the engine produces considerably more low-end torque than it did prior to the rebuild…no effect on drivability)
• RA apex seals, Mazda OEM springs
• Mazda OEM gaskets and seals (including coolant rings)
• Atkins Viton oil control ring inserts
• FD corner solid corner seals, springs
• New seals/springs
• All rotor bearings, stat gears, etc judged to be in good shape or replaced
• Atkins thermal pellet
• The engine and transmission assembly was installed by me. After installation, builder spent several hours double-checking my install and correcting any minor issues he encountered (vac leaks, etc.)
• Banjo bolt in place of PD
• New battery (replaced a few hundred miles or so…)
• Rat’s nest removed (passed emissions, see below), and all new fuel lines installed
• 4X550cc injectors cleaned and blueprinted by WitchHunter.com
• OMP disabled, premix now


Drivetrain:
• SR Motorsports 9.5lb flywheel (in my experience this flywheel does not make the car any more difficult to drive)
• ACT street/strip clutch and HD pressure plate w/approx 11k miles (the lighter of the two HD pps)
• Rebuilt na 5spd (I was told by the seller that it was built by Powerhaus Performance or something similar and had about 20k on it when I purchased it; installed w/rebuild engine)
• Rebuilt LSD w/40k (previous owner said it was rebuilt at 150k-ish)
• Pinion snubber over diff snout
• Mazdaspeed comp engine and transmission mounts


Misc:
• Car passed emissions easily (the tester commented: “wow, that’s pretty good for an ’87!”) with the same S-AFC correction pf approx -30% give or take across the RPM band
• ’99-’04 Mustang GT wheels with Khumo Estca Supra 712 tires- 255r/235f, includes set of stock GXL wheels with usable tires, and additional GXL wheels sets if desired (for free)
• Previous owner purchased a Napa alternator with a lifetime replacement warranty (paperwork will be included).
• Brake master cylinder was rebuilt (and assembly was adjusted) by me about 7k miles ago, were bled again about 2k ago…brakes in general are in great shape and are capable of locking up all 4 tires (235f/255r)
• Car will come with an ’86 FSM and a good stack of info/writeups I’ve printed off and collected over the years (including a full printed S-AFC manual).

Interior is in excellent shape. Only problems are a cracked radio surround and small (3” or so) tear in the usual spot on the driver’s seat bolster.


Problems:

To the best of my ability to recall, here is a list of everything that is less-than-fantastic with the car:
• The finish-there are a few large scratches (visible behind
• Needs (probably) a new pass. side tie-rod end
• Slight clunking in rear end- most needs (included) mounts installed or possibly rebuilt axles
• Radio does not work- CD player does
• Sunroof only pops up, doesn’t retract

EDIT: forgot to add, the car will include a hatch-load of parts, including new tociko clutch master/slave cylinders, ss clutch line, bonez straight pipe, new set of front brake pads, new mazda oem rear diff mounts, good-shape front diff mount, a few 2571engineering.com blockoff plates, energy suspension front/rear swaybar endlink bushings, original (usable cond.) trans, and oe clutch/pp.


Pictures:

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

$100. I'll come get it this weekend

But seriously, with the good condition the body is in and all the engine work, I'd say 3.5-4K is a good starting point.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I had an 88 GTU which put down 172rwhp, had a new paint job, with 160kish on the body. Clean interior and replaced a lot of interior plastics. I think I got $2300 for it. I had WAY more into it than that.

It sucks man, but n/a cars just aren't worth anything. I would say you will get $2500 if you are lucky... s4 n/a cars are especially plentiful out there, and yours isn't low mileage (on the odometer). Unless you have a super clean vert or a GTUs, or maybe less than 50k on the odometer or something, nobody wants to pay more than $1500-2000 for an n/a car.

Ask $3000 and be prepared to be talked down.

SDrotary-FC

yea n/a's just arent worth any $$ I would say around $2500 or so (if your lucky)

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

yep, $2000-$2500